HCIGAR VT75 Nano

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pufZeppelin

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it's just abuse, mis-handling
something I DON'T PRACTICE
and just another one of the reasons SOME peeps have troubles with their gear...
some of the peeps buy these cheap devices and expect them to be bullet proof like a $300+ dollar unit
I treat ALL MY STUFF with 'kid gloves' - why wouldn't ya... :rolleyes: :D


was sayin' Phinns don't like to be cold :cry: and the rat birds at home are due... :(
 

Mactavish

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I am appalled that you are not understanding of how I might be scarred for life from the experience. We are VAPERS! :laugh:

I'm confident you will recover, that's assuming you didn't get a RED ONE! I'm still in deep therapy over the THIN THREADS! :)
 

DPLongo22

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I'm confident you will recover, that's assuming you didn't get a RED ONE! I'm still in deep therapy over the THIN THREADS! :)

LOL! Valid point.

I hate the threads too, just for the record. I just love the rest of the silly thing, so I put up with them.

I had a girlfriend like that once... :nun:
 

pufZeppelin

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Argh, you guys! So little bandwidth, so much hot.
Whitesnake with hot women, or 45 minutes of Phil manhandling freeware..
Somebody tell me what he said? :)

well, he gave 'thumbs up' - threw batteries into devices - talked of his upcoming "B" juice line - covered himself in black electrical tape - didn't listen to Whitesnake :D:D:D
 

osvis

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Feb 7, 2012
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Hi all,

Just got this mod and it is so nice. Compact and it's DNA device, awesome.

Since this is my first DNA device what settings would you recommend I set on escribe? Any relevant material for the DNA75 around?

Thank you so much!

Congrats on your purchase! I have red one and I love it. First, what I would recommend you to do, is to disassemble the mod (four star shape screws, two on top and two on bottom) and tighten all three screws holding dna board to frame, they are acting as ground and will solve almost all problems. At least it did for me, I had resistance fluctuation, jumping out of TC, early flashing battery or weak battery error and all of this was driving me crazy. Now everything is working as it should.
I ran case analyzer and here are the values:
Case cooling: 243.45s
Case heating: 362.58s
Case USB charge: 2.39°F, 25.25°F/A
I don't have copper tool to check mod resistance, but I have it set to 0.003 and, for me, tc works good.
Good luck!
 

Katdarling

I'm still here on ECF... sort of. ;)
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I'm confident you will recover, that's assuming you didn't get a RED ONE! I'm still in deep therapy over the THIN THREADS! :)

I kould use a bit of deep therapy....... sign me up. :blink:



LOL! Valid point.

I hate the threads too, just for the record. I just love the rest of the silly thing, so I put up with them.

I had a girlfriend like that once... :nun:

ONCE. ;)


Argh, you guys! So little bandwidth, so much hot. Whitesnake with hot women, or 45 minutes of Phil manhandling freeware..
Somebody tell me what he said? :)

Phil wish button.jpg


Congrats on your purchase! I have red one and I love it. First, what I would recommend you to do, is to disassemble the mod (four star shape screws, two on top and two on bottom) and tighten all three screws holding dna board to frame, they are acting as ground and will solve almost all problems. At least it did for me, I had resistance fluctuation, jumping out of TC, early flashing battery or weak battery error and all of this was driving me crazy. Now everything is working as it should.
I ran case analyzer and here are the values:
Case cooling: 243.45s
Case heating: 362.58s
Case USB charge: 2.39°F, 25.25°F/A
I don't have copper tool to check mod resistance, but I have it set to 0.003 and, for me, tc works good.
Good luck!

osvis, how would one attempt the disassembly? Those four "star shape screws" aren't really screws (from my vantage point)..... they're odd little closures that take odd little tools, methinks.
 

LouisLeBeau

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osvis, how would one attempt the disassembly? Those four "star shape screws" aren't really screws (from my vantage point)..... they're odd little closures that take odd little tools, methinks.

Oh KD, poor dear. Behold, the New Paperclip
clip.jpg
 

DPLongo22

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I kould use a bit of deep therapy....... sign me up. :blink:





ONCE. ;)




View attachment 619817



osvis, how would one attempt the disassembly? Those four "star shape screws" aren't really screws (from my vantage point)..... they're odd little closures that take odd little tools, methinks.

:facepalm::laugh:

Oh KD, poor dear. Behold, the New Paperclip
View attachment 619819

Oh, THAT?! Yeah, she's got a toolkit exactly like that one. :blink:

Where's the nail file?
 

KTMRider

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Katdarling

I'm still here on ECF... sort of. ;)
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Oh KD, poor dear. Behold, the New Paperclip
View attachment 619819

What the Ferk??? :confused:

Honeypie, you could have put that on my "What IS This?" thread and I would not have been able to figure it out! I'm sorry, dude, but that looks NOTHING like any sort of paper clip I've ever seen.

It's sooooooooo ummmm....... manly. :rolleyes:


Those are Torx screws.

KTM, thank you, Unfortunately, I do not know Tork, and I doubt he wants to readily give up his screws.


(Thank you for the linkie!!!)
 

Fingolfin

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Jan 12, 2017
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Hi all.

OK, I'm pretty new to dna chips in general. I owned a Joyetech VTwo mini and an eLeaf PICO 75W TC.
I usually vaped only with custom built SS316L coils both in power mode and in TC mode. I prefer MTL vaping, so my coil reistance range is between 0.7-1.5 ohm.
While using Hcigar VT75 nano with SS316L coiils I noticed that resistance jumps and lowers in wattage mode while vaping. With kanthal in power mode all is OK. Resistance is stable while vaping.
Example. I have a 0.88 ohm build. I set the power to 14W and press the power button and wait for the resiatance to stabilize. The resistance rises to 1.09 ohms. Is this normal for this mod?
 

Eskie

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Hi all.

OK, I'm pretty new to dna chips in general. I owned a Joyetech VTwo mini and an eLeaf PICO 75W TC.
I usually vaped only with custom built SS316L coils both in power mode and in TC mode. I prefer MTL vaping, so my coil reistance range is between 0.7-1.5 ohm.
While using Hcigar VT75 nano with SS316L coiils I noticed that resistance jumps and lowers in wattage mode while vaping. With kanthal in power mode all is OK. Resistance is stable while vaping.
Example. I have a 0.88 ohm build. I set the power to 14W and press the power button and wait for the resiatance to stabilize. The resistance rises to 1.09 ohms. Is this normal for this mod?

Actually, it's normal for any mod. Resistance rises with temperature. It's the basis of doing temp control. Seeing a 316L coil rise by ~0.1 ohm is quite normal. With a metal like Ni, it's even greater. You do not see much of any change with Kanthal, as that metal really doesn't change resistance much with heating like other wires. Which is also why Kanthal really isn't used for TC.
 
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Fingolfin

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Jan 12, 2017
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Actually, it's normal for any mod. Resistance rises with temperature. It's the basis of doing temp control. Seeing a 316L coil rise by ~0.1 ohm is quite normal. With a metal like Ni, it's even greater. You do not see much of any change with Kanthal, as that metal really doesn't change resistance much with heating like other wires. Which is also why Kanthal really isn't used for TC.

It's ~0.21ohms in my case. I don't realy remember, but I think my old mods showed constant resistance for SS316L in wattage mode.
I've used SS316L in wattage mode for the sole reason that it has less of a metal taste compared to kanthal coils (for me).
What is the diffence in using SS316 in wattage mode with a DNA chip compared with using it with a Joyetech/eLeaf chip?
Was the resistance locked with Joyetech/eLeaf mods (maybe you have expirience with those chips)?
 
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Eskie

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It's ~0.21ohms in my case. I don't realy remember, but I think my old mods showed constant resistance for SS316L in wattage mode.
I've used SS316L in wattage mode for the sole reason that it has less of a metal taste compared to kanthal coils (for me).
What is the diffence in using SS316 in wattage mode with a DNA chip compared with using it with a Joyetech/eLeaf chip?
Was the resistance locked with Joyetech/eLeaf mods (maybe you have expirience with those chips)?

In wattage mode there's not a lot of difference between a DNA and non-DNA mods, probably none. What sets the DNA board apart is in temp control. The DNA board continually resolves the resistance and regulates current based upon that (in TC mode). So it's always measuring and refining the resistance while in use. You're seeing a real time resistance reading even in wattage mode. On a non-DNA device, it might very well not resolve the resistance in real time unless in TC mode.

If you do want to get the most out of this mod, and you are already using 316L, you might want to read some of the temp control threads and give it a shot. I find it quite worthwhile and almost never use wattage/power mode anymore. Others don't. You can try it and see.
 

Fingolfin

New Member
Jan 12, 2017
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In wattage mode there's not a lot of difference between a DNA and non-DNA mods, probably none. What sets the DNA board apart is in temp control. The DNA board continually resolves the resistance and regulates current based upon that (in TC mode). So it's always measuring and refining the resistance while in use. You're seeing a real time resistance reading even in wattage mode. On a non-DNA device, it might very well not resolve the resistance in real time unless in TC mode.

If you do want to get the most out of this mod, and you are already using 316L, you might want to read some of the temp control threads and give it a shot. I find it quite worthwhile and almost never use wattage/power mode anymore. Others don't. You can try it and see.

Thank you for your patience in answering all my question. You helped me a lot. Now I understand my device a little bit better.
I will check further topics concerning DNA75 boards and TC vaping.
Best of luck to you.
 

Wingsfan0310

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Oct 2, 2013
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It's ~0.21ohms in my case. I don't realy remember, but I think my old mods showed constant resistance for SS316L in wattage mode.
I've used SS316L in wattage mode for the sole reason that it has less of a metal taste compared to kanthal coils (for me).
What is the diffence in using SS316 in wattage mode with a DNA chip compared with using it with a Joyetech/eLeaf chip?
Was the resistance locked with Joyetech/eLeaf mods (maybe you have expirience with those chips)?
Not all mods give you a real time readout of resistance. The DNA for example does in Power Mode but not in TC. You can check it for yourself. Take a SS316 coil and run it in TC. You will see the resistance that is locked in while it's room temperature. Take the same coil and fire it in Power Mode and the resistance rises in real time.

When in TC, you see the locked room temperature resistance. In Power Mode you see a real time resistance. As @Eskie mentioned, when the wire heats up, the resistance rises. The greater the TCR is of the wire you are using, the more the resistance will rise. That's how TC works. Either you put in the TCR for the wire you are using or the mod has already been programed with it. The mod locks in the resistance at room temperature. As you press the fire button the mod compares the rise in resistance to the room temperature resistance to know when you have reached your set temperature. At which point the mod will vary the power to keep you from exceeding your set temperature.

TCR-Chart-Vaping.jpg


Cheers,
Steve
 
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DPLongo22

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In wattage mode there's not a lot of difference between a DNA and non-DNA mods, probably none.

My taste buds disagree, but we know what that's worth.

Got both of mine yesterday. The battery door isn't that bad. Of course I'm use to the battery doors on the Yihi Sx Mini M's and ML's. No buyers remorse here.
ff6036befbc75b6e4c273704c55aab9f.jpg


Sent from my LG V20

Looking great, and congrats! As @Mactavish said earlier though, we believe there is something cosmically off with the red ones (regarding the battery cap only). It appears that all the others are more along the lines you described, "...isn't that bad."

I still love the red one anyway, but yeah, that cap...(smh).
 
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