Hey man. Look don't push the mandrel. Do around 3 wraps angles backwards by hand at first. It will look like / /\\\. Then just continue with the pliers. When you're finished pull the first hand wraps and you're good to go.
How To Build The Turbo Coil Winder
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Ok, thinking about the best way to boil this down to a few simple words but here goes,
Think of the wrap as the threads in a screw. You start a few wraps and then you stop advancing and start to double back, almost as if you were going to start wraping a reverse thread back on top of its self. This is the point you stop and clamp it. So its 3 foward wraps then 1/2 a back wrap, then when you clamp it in the jaws you maintain that same backward rake. Then when you spin it the wrap before will hit the wire thats trying to reverse and force it to fall in line tightly
Ill try to do another close up video of what im saying here
Think of the wrap as the threads in a screw. You start a few wraps and then you stop advancing and start to double back, almost as if you were going to start wraping a reverse thread back on top of its self. This is the point you stop and clamp it. So its 3 foward wraps then 1/2 a back wrap, then when you clamp it in the jaws you maintain that same backward rake. Then when you spin it the wrap before will hit the wire thats trying to reverse and force it to fall in line tightly
Ill try to do another close up video of what im saying here
The point you stop at, the last set up wrap right before you clamp it, it should almost want to lay back over the starter wraps before it like an X, but not close enough that it actually does X over because thatll give you the overlapping mess. When the reverse angle is right the new wrap winds up hitting the wrap before it as soon as you start spinning but being clamped it forces it to fall in line tightly.
Practice doing just 3 spins and then check it, either it falls right from the first 2 or 3 wraps or its not right
Practice doing just 3 spins and then check it, either it falls right from the first 2 or 3 wraps or its not right
Would this clamp work with the cooking gizmo mandrels?
Just thinking if I have to buy everything for your diy with the pens and drill bits; would I be better off to buy the gizmo for the mandrel.
Just thinking if I have to buy everything for your diy with the pens and drill bits; would I be better off to buy the gizmo for the mandrel.
I spent $20, most of the stuff people would have laying around the house. A drill bit, epoxy and the pliers are the things people would most likely need to go to the store for, and a single drill bit is all you need. I did use some of my gizmo because I didn't have a paper clip, I think the pieces in the sizes you're going to need are going to be a little too flexable. It's certainly no more expensive than what I would have spent on OCC coils for my Subtank in the week or so that I've had it.
OK, think I had a revelation this morning. When you set up the wire to get started instead of holding the mandrel still and wrapping the wire around it spin the mandrel the same way you do with the pliers clamped on it. I'm running very low on 28g and caught myself wanting to turn the mandrel the opposite way which has the main cause of my problems. Fortunately I caught it before I got a full tight wrap so it was easy to stop, pull out the bad spot, slide it over a little and start again.
The coil came out tight and acceptable, it does look like it may be slightly larger in the center. Anyway, getting it down and it takes less than 5 min from the time I pull everything out of the tool box to having something ready to bolt down.
The coil came out tight and acceptable, it does look like it may be slightly larger in the center. Anyway, getting it down and it takes less than 5 min from the time I pull everything out of the tool box to having something ready to bolt down.
Hey Turb's! you ever used one of they Kuro or euro, what ever they called, coil makers? they dont do a bad job you know, a little less tension then your way but enough for me and they also have a right and wrong way as your coiler does.
A tiny bit off topic here but back in the day when the tensioning craze was just starting to kick off i drew an idea i had but never ever posted the pic as its a little impractical as you would need one for each size of mandrel and then you would need to take account for the wire diameter as that would adjust the size of mandrel.
If the part where the wire feeds into it had a sharp bend or two then you would get tension
A tiny bit off topic here but back in the day when the tensioning craze was just starting to kick off i drew an idea i had but never ever posted the pic as its a little impractical as you would need one for each size of mandrel and then you would need to take account for the wire diameter as that would adjust the size of mandrel.
If the part where the wire feeds into it had a sharp bend or two then you would get tension
I think it's a question of tension versus non-tension, spaced and close contact. I've read every post you can think of on this site, and while there is nothing that can compare to real world experience, you will still find many in both camps, and then the next camp of those that use spaced coils. My props to Turbo for all his hard work in building his device and sharing how to make it for yourself. I may do it someday, but I'm new to rebuilding and lazy. For $25 I would buy a pre-made one to experiment, but that was not Turbos great intentions.
If you follow "macs" thread on tensioned micro coils, you will find a near religious and science approach to tensioned micro coils, if you look at Robs video on how he builds coils for his own invention of Reo Mods, you will find a hand wound on drill bit spaced coil. Those are the extremes to me so far. I bought a pin vise, as well as the Coil Master version 2. So I can try both tension on pin vise, as well as close contact on CM. Then there is spaced coils, regarded as good for less gunk on coil when using sweet juices, some use a screw to get proper spacing, others make a contact coil, and then spread the coils using a razor blade, or in my opinion I might try a credit card, so as not to cut into the wire.
Confused, just ask Russ, "SuperX", he has done them all and makes no apologies for trying new things, and keeping us on our toes. I am glad I did not buy the spinning handle device and fishing reel!
He loved the spinning device, then the Coil Master, and now the homemade clamp device in this thread. So obviously there is a lot of ways to skin a cat! What's the best, I sure don't know yet, at least for me.
For now I'm content with making contact coils with the CM tool, as it's so quick and easy, and there is really no real science or more importantly user feedback to suggest that stretching the wire under tension gives a better vamping experience. It may make a better "electric circuit", but in the end we are not making such, the vaping experience is what counts, and again this is highly debated so save the flames if you are in that camp. I have all the tools to try all the techniques I have read about here, just need the time to try them all.
Seeing as every commercial coil you can buy pre-made or in a subtank are all spaced, I have to give some notice to that technique, as the big manufacturers may know a bit about the products they sell, and the science behind those choices.
If you follow "macs" thread on tensioned micro coils, you will find a near religious and science approach to tensioned micro coils, if you look at Robs video on how he builds coils for his own invention of Reo Mods, you will find a hand wound on drill bit spaced coil. Those are the extremes to me so far. I bought a pin vise, as well as the Coil Master version 2. So I can try both tension on pin vise, as well as close contact on CM. Then there is spaced coils, regarded as good for less gunk on coil when using sweet juices, some use a screw to get proper spacing, others make a contact coil, and then spread the coils using a razor blade, or in my opinion I might try a credit card, so as not to cut into the wire.
Confused, just ask Russ, "SuperX", he has done them all and makes no apologies for trying new things, and keeping us on our toes. I am glad I did not buy the spinning handle device and fishing reel!
He loved the spinning device, then the Coil Master, and now the homemade clamp device in this thread. So obviously there is a lot of ways to skin a cat! What's the best, I sure don't know yet, at least for me. For now I'm content with making contact coils with the CM tool, as it's so quick and easy, and there is really no real science or more importantly user feedback to suggest that stretching the wire under tension gives a better vamping experience. It may make a better "electric circuit", but in the end we are not making such, the vaping experience is what counts, and again this is highly debated so save the flames if you are in that camp. I have all the tools to try all the techniques I have read about here, just need the time to try them all.
Seeing as every commercial coil you can buy pre-made or in a subtank are all spaced, I have to give some notice to that technique, as the big manufacturers may know a bit about the products they sell, and the science behind those choices.
The only time i used a blade on a coil was when i made a diamond coil where you want to split groups of wraps. By far the best way i found to get nice even open wraps is to wrap your coil then pull the legs away from each other then squeeze back together repeat the pull apart and squeeze a second time and voila, i do it this way with 20-26g wire, i suppose if you do it with real thin wire you might distort the wraps on the squeeze but ive not tried, spaced wraps dont go to well with thinner wires anyway as they distort when being wicked unless you's careful, hence a reason for doing a contact coil besides that theres the great flavour on a normal or low power setting.
Spaced wraps are also great for when using a smaller id on say a very hot vape without burning the wick.
A spaced coil untorched & unoxidized will blow your mind when you taste how much flavour it has, have look here >>Dont Dry Burn Your Kanthal | E-Cigarette Forum if you never try you'll never know
sorry for going off topic
Spaced wraps are also great for when using a smaller id on say a very hot vape without burning the wick.
A spaced coil untorched & unoxidized will blow your mind when you taste how much flavour it has, have look here >>Dont Dry Burn Your Kanthal | E-Cigarette Forum if you never try you'll never know
sorry for going off topic
I have used many methods from hand around a screw to making the first micro coil around a tiny finishing nail, to dark zero to coil gizmo to coil gizmo and fishing reel to pin vice (can't duplicate my efforts so I don't use it) to coil master.
All coils appear to work well and for 99% of the worlds vape population those methods will kick solid ayuss . But none and I mean NONE function as well as a coil made where the winds fall so close to each other that you cannot see light thru them and that they are tensioned just so that they maintain that integrity throughout the dual coil mounting sequence. Enter either pin vice mastery or the TURBOwinder.
I run the TURBOwinder because every coil I make is EXACTLY the same. And the effort involved is no more than the coil master. I couldn't master the pin vice. Nope. I am not a patient man.
But when you see your coils glowing perfect end to end red to orange with no yellow overheating in the center emanating outwards you will see why Mac preaches tension and why Turbo developed and shared this method.
Like I said, most any coil can give a vape you think vapes awesome. I know I did.
But once you get the perfect tensioned AND formed coils in your atty you will never know what these guys are so passionate about.
I have been schooled.
But I still think the coil master is perfect for 99% of the world.
It's us 1%ers, you know, the guys that are in threads like these who will appreciate what perfection really is.
And remember - anyone can mount a perfect single coil and squeeze it into submission. I'm talking about dual coils of perfect symmetry throughout the mount. You need a rod of the same size you wound on in each coil for every tightening or repositioning. Never EVER tighten screws without this rod in place or you WILL F up your coils no matter how you wound them.
All coils appear to work well and for 99% of the worlds vape population those methods will kick solid ayuss . But none and I mean NONE function as well as a coil made where the winds fall so close to each other that you cannot see light thru them and that they are tensioned just so that they maintain that integrity throughout the dual coil mounting sequence. Enter either pin vice mastery or the TURBOwinder.
I run the TURBOwinder because every coil I make is EXACTLY the same. And the effort involved is no more than the coil master. I couldn't master the pin vice. Nope. I am not a patient man.
But when you see your coils glowing perfect end to end red to orange with no yellow overheating in the center emanating outwards you will see why Mac preaches tension and why Turbo developed and shared this method.
Like I said, most any coil can give a vape you think vapes awesome. I know I did.
But once you get the perfect tensioned AND formed coils in your atty you will never know what these guys are so passionate about.
I have been schooled.
But I still think the coil master is perfect for 99% of the world.
It's us 1%ers, you know, the guys that are in threads like these who will appreciate what perfection really is.
And remember - anyone can mount a perfect single coil and squeeze it into submission. I'm talking about dual coils of perfect symmetry throughout the mount. You need a rod of the same size you wound on in each coil for every tightening or repositioning. Never EVER tighten screws without this rod in place or you WILL F up your coils no matter how you wound them.
to me there is nothing "wrong" with a spaced coil, I do spaced coils too
it's not that a spaced coil can't vape well, it can, it's just that a tight microcoil does add something to the vape that you can't get any other way. it's not something that is absolutely necessary for a good vape and there are many people who enjoy vaping that have never experienced a true tight microcoil and that's fine, there is more than one way to vape and I'm not looking to say here that any other way is wrong, all I'm saying is that a tight microcoil does add properties to the vape that you can't get any other way, and it is a very enjoyable vape, it adds a certain quality to the vape that you really have to experience to "get it" and also that any gap in the coil negates this "effect", enough small gaps and this "effect" is nullified. does anyone really NEED this effect? no, but that doesn't make it any less enjoyable when you do achieve this effect.
mactechvapor attributes "the effect" achieved as being a result of the electrical properties of the wind and believes that the tension imparted on the wire does something to the electrical properties of the wind. personally I don't share this view, personally I attribute this effect solely to the mechanical aspect of the wind and solely to the close tight proximity wraps. to me the electrical aspect ends once the coil is oxidized, to me once the coil is oxidized to the point of no shorts and even firing then the coil is stable, as stable as if it was a non contact wrap, but where the effect comes from is a result of the vapor being forced through these tight close wraps. the vapor is diffused, it doesn't shoot out of the coil at high velocity, it instead kind of just bubbles and froths from the coil and this creates a very distinct change in the vapors flavor production.
I have done may tests and analyzed many builds to form these conclusions but in the end these are nothing more than my own theories and conclusions. I do happen to believe my own conclusions but I'm not arrogant enough to state them here as being facts, there more of my own personal beliefs and conclusions than factual absolutes but from many tests and samplings I do believe them to be in fact true, yet I'm still open to considering other theories and realize that as much as I may think I know, in the end truth is there is probably many things going on here that I can't possibly "see" too so I can only go by what I can observe.
here's a shot of some testing I have done, to compare exactly what this "effect" does...
here I have made 2 tight micro's, vaped them as-is for a day or 2, then simply stretched one out to no longer be a contact and noted the differences in the vape
experiments like this will help you to really see the differences, differences in the vapor coming off of the coil, differences in heat up time, differences in gunk build up and differences in the vape itself. I encourage anyone who really wants to delve deeper into understanding how coil differences affect the vape to experiment and try different things, to play around and experiment. play with coil configurations and positioning and any other variables to learn how any small changes affect your vape. sometimes the difference between an ok vape and a killer vape can be in very small changes, understanding how these small changes affect the vape is a great way to dial in your own ideal killer vape...
in the end I believe that getting a good vape is easy enough but fine tuning that to a great vape is where the finesse and fine tuning comes into play, and understanding what is going on and what small changes affect the vape can go a long way towards being able to always set up a great vape for yourself VS the hit and miss many go through.. how many have just all of a sudden hit on a really great vaping build only to then be afraid of touching it because they are afraid they may not be able to duplicate it again. they don't know exactly why this particular build shines above there others but they know that they will loose it when they rebuild it. my goals are to identify the variables and be able to reproduce that killer vape each and every time. my coil spinner goes a long way towards achieving that for me. it's far from the only way to do it, it's just another tool to help and for me personally it's the only way to wrap because it's the easiest way and gives the best results, consistently, each and every time. I don't see any reason to do it any other way for me personally
it's not that a spaced coil can't vape well, it can, it's just that a tight microcoil does add something to the vape that you can't get any other way. it's not something that is absolutely necessary for a good vape and there are many people who enjoy vaping that have never experienced a true tight microcoil and that's fine, there is more than one way to vape and I'm not looking to say here that any other way is wrong, all I'm saying is that a tight microcoil does add properties to the vape that you can't get any other way, and it is a very enjoyable vape, it adds a certain quality to the vape that you really have to experience to "get it" and also that any gap in the coil negates this "effect", enough small gaps and this "effect" is nullified. does anyone really NEED this effect? no, but that doesn't make it any less enjoyable when you do achieve this effect.
mactechvapor attributes "the effect" achieved as being a result of the electrical properties of the wind and believes that the tension imparted on the wire does something to the electrical properties of the wind. personally I don't share this view, personally I attribute this effect solely to the mechanical aspect of the wind and solely to the close tight proximity wraps. to me the electrical aspect ends once the coil is oxidized, to me once the coil is oxidized to the point of no shorts and even firing then the coil is stable, as stable as if it was a non contact wrap, but where the effect comes from is a result of the vapor being forced through these tight close wraps. the vapor is diffused, it doesn't shoot out of the coil at high velocity, it instead kind of just bubbles and froths from the coil and this creates a very distinct change in the vapors flavor production.
I have done may tests and analyzed many builds to form these conclusions but in the end these are nothing more than my own theories and conclusions. I do happen to believe my own conclusions but I'm not arrogant enough to state them here as being facts, there more of my own personal beliefs and conclusions than factual absolutes but from many tests and samplings I do believe them to be in fact true, yet I'm still open to considering other theories and realize that as much as I may think I know, in the end truth is there is probably many things going on here that I can't possibly "see" too so I can only go by what I can observe.
here's a shot of some testing I have done, to compare exactly what this "effect" does...
here I have made 2 tight micro's, vaped them as-is for a day or 2, then simply stretched one out to no longer be a contact and noted the differences in the vape
experiments like this will help you to really see the differences, differences in the vapor coming off of the coil, differences in heat up time, differences in gunk build up and differences in the vape itself. I encourage anyone who really wants to delve deeper into understanding how coil differences affect the vape to experiment and try different things, to play around and experiment. play with coil configurations and positioning and any other variables to learn how any small changes affect your vape. sometimes the difference between an ok vape and a killer vape can be in very small changes, understanding how these small changes affect the vape is a great way to dial in your own ideal killer vape...
in the end I believe that getting a good vape is easy enough but fine tuning that to a great vape is where the finesse and fine tuning comes into play, and understanding what is going on and what small changes affect the vape can go a long way towards being able to always set up a great vape for yourself VS the hit and miss many go through.. how many have just all of a sudden hit on a really great vaping build only to then be afraid of touching it because they are afraid they may not be able to duplicate it again. they don't know exactly why this particular build shines above there others but they know that they will loose it when they rebuild it. my goals are to identify the variables and be able to reproduce that killer vape each and every time. my coil spinner goes a long way towards achieving that for me. it's far from the only way to do it, it's just another tool to help and for me personally it's the only way to wrap because it's the easiest way and gives the best results, consistently, each and every time. I don't see any reason to do it any other way for me personally
Well written, good photos! Agree with all your observations.
Wondering if you have ever noticed a difference on gunk build up being any different between the two types of coils?
I realize the juice can be the largest X-Factor here. With my Chalice 3 on the way all I've had to learn on so far is the tiny Egrip RBA. One of my favorite flavor juices a "banana/mango/peach" 50/50 Joes Flavorz, is dark and sweet. After a day or so, once again I noticed less flavor and vapor, and opened up this RBA, once again, after only 4-5 mgs of juice feed, the 10 wrap 2mm 1.2 ohm coil is black and crusty/gunky. The Joyetech pre-built, pre-wicked coils are spaced, so I'm going to try them again and see if I get less gunk. Once the Chalice shows up, I'll start experimenting again with close contact coils first, then spread coils. Vapor wise perhaps I'm not experienced enough to make note yet of the differences in flavor and vapor production but I can at least make notes on the very visible coil gunk build-up. Naturally, it seems lighter Flavors and less sweet juices have less gunk effect, but I have not yet found my all day light flavor vape.
Wondering if you have ever noticed a difference on gunk build up being any different between the two types of coils?
I realize the juice can be the largest X-Factor here. With my Chalice 3 on the way all I've had to learn on so far is the tiny Egrip RBA. One of my favorite flavor juices a "banana/mango/peach" 50/50 Joes Flavorz, is dark and sweet. After a day or so, once again I noticed less flavor and vapor, and opened up this RBA, once again, after only 4-5 mgs of juice feed, the 10 wrap 2mm 1.2 ohm coil is black and crusty/gunky. The Joyetech pre-built, pre-wicked coils are spaced, so I'm going to try them again and see if I get less gunk. Once the Chalice shows up, I'll start experimenting again with close contact coils first, then spread coils. Vapor wise perhaps I'm not experienced enough to make note yet of the differences in flavor and vapor production but I can at least make notes on the very visible coil gunk build-up. Naturally, it seems lighter Flavors and less sweet juices have less gunk effect, but I have not yet found my all day light flavor vape.
thank you Turbo for sharing your thoughts, ideas, experience, and creativity. I must say I find it quite compelling. What intrigues me the most is the potential for repeatability. I watched your tutorials and have gathered the materials to try my own hand at assembling your TurboWinder tomorrow . I was wondering if you have any further thoughts/tweaks/amendments to your initial three videos?
I also had a question on function. It appears that the bulk of the tension would be created by the friction of the "squeeze" on the coil/dowel pin (surrounded by the leather-clad eraser) instead of the leather covered jaws. Does the eraser truly have enough give that you are able to get a full squeeze (to the point of allowing the jaws to provide any meaningful resistance) AND still be able to rotate the handle?
And lastly (for this post ); how big of a paper clip did you use? Any chance you might be able to throw a caliper, or micrometer, around one so I have an idea as to its diameter?
Again; Thank you so much for all your time and effort and willingness to share.
I also had a question on function. It appears that the bulk of the tension would be created by the friction of the "squeeze" on the coil/dowel pin (surrounded by the leather-clad eraser) instead of the leather covered jaws. Does the eraser truly have enough give that you are able to get a full squeeze (to the point of allowing the jaws to provide any meaningful resistance) AND still be able to rotate the handle?
And lastly (for this post
); how big of a paper clip did you use? Any chance you might be able to throw a caliper, or micrometer, around one so I have an idea as to its diameter?Again; Thank you so much for all your time and effort and willingness to share.
mactavish, yes close tight wraps do gunk up more than a spaced coil. actually when the coil is very tight then the gaps between the wind are extremely tiny, I believe this slows down the migration of liquid to the outer parts of the wrap which is what gives this diffused vapor and also causes more gunking but as you say this is also very juice dependant. I usually run very little flavor in my juice so they really don't gunk up so bad but sometimes when I use a heavier juice it does really gunk up. truth is that this gunk also diffuses the vape even further and with some juices they taste even better once a bit of gunk builds up. check this one out after only 2 days or so, the flavor this thing wa giving even with all this gunk was really good but after looking at it I had to clean it even though it tasted really good as you see it here
IDJoel, I have been so tied up with work past few weeks that I haven't had any time to do anything on the hobby end of things but yeah, since developing this thing and using it a bit after those video's I have discovered one issue, I did kind of touch on it in the last vid but haven't had time to do much more, the issue is that if you keep swapping coil sizes as in different ID's then the rubber can get stretched out a bit and then not be tight enough when you go back to smaller coils. if you stick to one size then it's not as much of an issue and I have developed a way to easily replace the rubber inserts but haven't had any time to go into it further here. other than that, to answer your question yes the rubber compresses enough to hold compression on the wrap and allows the clamp to close enough that the leather jaws are effective at holding the wire tight enough for some tension
I have a set of mandrels in different sizes that I need to send to superX but I want to develop a foolproof solution to this before I complete it and send it to him. this doesn't negate any of the things I've already shown here and everything is still valid, it's just that if you are the kind who does a variety of coil ID's then you may want to either make a few different clamps for different sizes or make a few replacement inserts for the rubbers which is very easy, just haven't had time to add much here yet for this but I will soon....
I have a set of mandrels in different sizes that I need to send to superX but I want to develop a foolproof solution to this before I complete it and send it to him. this doesn't negate any of the things I've already shown here and everything is still valid, it's just that if you are the kind who does a variety of coil ID's then you may want to either make a few different clamps for different sizes or make a few replacement inserts for the rubbers which is very easy, just haven't had time to add much here yet for this but I will soon....
Like Al Bundy used to say, if you clean a bbq you remove all the flavormactavish, yes close tight wraps do gunk up more than a spaced coil. actually when the coil is very tight then the gaps between the wind are extremely tiny, I believe this slows down the migration of liquid to the outer parts of the wrap which is what gives this diffused vapor and also causes more gunking but as you say this is also very juice dependant. I usually run very little flavor in my juice so they really don't gunk up so bad but sometimes when I use a heavier juice it does really gunk up. truth is that this gunk also diffuses the vape even further and with some juices they taste even better once a bit of gunk builds up. check this one out after only 2 days or so, the flavor this thing wa giving even with all this gunk was really good but after looking at it I had to clean it even though it tasted really good as you see it here
Thanks Turbo.
I have never made a spaced coil, should learn just to continue my building education. Reading and watching videos, seems there are many ways, on a screw, spreading a close contact micro, spreading them by hand on the mandrel, etc. As of now, I'm being lazy and just turning my close contacts on the Coil Master, my few attempts at tension with a pin vise were labor intensive comparatively speaking and did not turn out well. Someday I may attempt to make the tool you invented. In the end I may stick to micros over spread coils, and make my gunk adjustments with juice choices. Grown tired of spending lots of money on store bought juices, only to give them away.
Since I've come this far, learning to make coils, it's time to learn to make my own juices. I'd prefer not to have to re-wick daily, and just like in RBA building you know more or less exactly what's in the stuff you are inhaling. This was one of the major reasons I dove into rebuilding. Pre-made atomizers, Aspire, Kanger, etc. have always been a bit of a mystery, materials wise, and those major companies seem to follow what the builders come up with, being a step or more behind, instead of leading. Obvious recent example is pre-mades going to cotton wicks, long after the RBA community has been using it. Besides some of the other mystery parts and materials in those tanks. Sure they are easy to use, but I have never been totally satisfied VAPE wise, and juices sitting for more then a day or two in my tanks always started tasting funky, bad, and turning darker, like going sour or bad. Sure all these modern tanks are far better then the cartos I was vaping in 2009. Now that I own a real RBA, the Chalice, I'm retiring all those tank toppers. Won't miss cleaning them, and all their tiny O-Rings, etc. Another plus you get with a real RBA, is being able to view your wick at any time and seeing how the various juices are effecting the wicks. It's just a simpler, purest way to go. Material of RBA (let's say stainless), material of coil (still debated, I use Kanthal so far), and wick material (I use Japanese KoGenDo), though I realize there is not much research on cotton either, just prefer it for now over synthetic materials. Finding the right wick length and width and being able to duplicate it has been a huge challenge so far, as well as what SuperX says, regarding deforming the great coil you just built when installing them on the posts!
Though after reading your post, I'll fixate less on gunk appearance, if the vapor is tasting good. Thanks for all your contributions here, and in all the other threads you participate in, I see you everywhere!
I have never made a spaced coil, should learn just to continue my building education. Reading and watching videos, seems there are many ways, on a screw, spreading a close contact micro, spreading them by hand on the mandrel, etc. As of now, I'm being lazy and just turning my close contacts on the Coil Master, my few attempts at tension with a pin vise were labor intensive comparatively speaking and did not turn out well. Someday I may attempt to make the tool you invented. In the end I may stick to micros over spread coils, and make my gunk adjustments with juice choices. Grown tired of spending lots of money on store bought juices, only to give them away.
Since I've come this far, learning to make coils, it's time to learn to make my own juices. I'd prefer not to have to re-wick daily, and just like in RBA building you know more or less exactly what's in the stuff you are inhaling. This was one of the major reasons I dove into rebuilding. Pre-made atomizers, Aspire, Kanger, etc. have always been a bit of a mystery, materials wise, and those major companies seem to follow what the builders come up with, being a step or more behind, instead of leading. Obvious recent example is pre-mades going to cotton wicks, long after the RBA community has been using it. Besides some of the other mystery parts and materials in those tanks. Sure they are easy to use, but I have never been totally satisfied VAPE wise, and juices sitting for more then a day or two in my tanks always started tasting funky, bad, and turning darker, like going sour or bad. Sure all these modern tanks are far better then the cartos I was vaping in 2009. Now that I own a real RBA, the Chalice, I'm retiring all those tank toppers. Won't miss cleaning them, and all their tiny O-Rings, etc. Another plus you get with a real RBA, is being able to view your wick at any time and seeing how the various juices are effecting the wicks. It's just a simpler, purest way to go. Material of RBA (let's say stainless), material of coil (still debated, I use Kanthal so far), and wick material (I use Japanese KoGenDo), though I realize there is not much research on cotton either, just prefer it for now over synthetic materials. Finding the right wick length and width and being able to duplicate it has been a huge challenge so far, as well as what SuperX says, regarding deforming the great coil you just built when installing them on the posts!
Though after reading your post, I'll fixate less on gunk appearance, if the vapor is tasting good. Thanks for all your contributions here, and in all the other threads you participate in, I see you everywhere!
Like Al Bundy used to say, if you clean a bbq you remove all the flavor
And Archie Bunker said: "to stop plane hijacking, give everyone a gun when they board". I know, totally unrelated. Though I am jealous of you pure VG vapors, as your wicks always look NEW!
Time to throw another steak on the BBQ.
Thanks Turbocad6. I completely understand "too busy." I know folks like you and superX are always looking for ways to take something great and make them better. Which is why I asked. I did take note (from your "parallel build" video) regarding the effect of varying coil sizes and eraser breakdown, as well as your suggestions on poking the worn eraser out without disturbing the attached leather. I specifically did not apply any glue between the leather and the eraser to facilitate this change-out. So with that; my first clamp is made and visually looks comparable to yours in the video.
This evening I am moving on to build my first mandrel (I'm going to start w/ a 1.5mm and get that repeatable before I move on to other sizes). Any advise on paperclip size (dia.)? The reason I ask is I am concerned about unwanted flexibility in the paperclip during tensioned winding vs. too large/overkill making assembly a needless pain in the ....
Thanks again for your help!!
I normally would build my own twister with SS wire or music wire. the only reason I used paperclips here was to make it easily obtainable and workable by hand so anyone could do it. some people may have a problem bending the wire with pliers or a bending tool. the paperclip I used was bendable by hand and it does add a bit of springyness to the handle assy in use which isn't bad at all really. it was a large paperclip but not the really big heavy jumbo ones. I bought those too and it would be stiffer but harder to shape and would need to be cut so I went with the smaller one.
if you can bend and cut the heavier wire then by all means, make it heavier, but it does function fine even with the hand bendable "large" paper clips
if you can bend and cut the heavier wire then by all means, make it heavier, but it does function fine even with the hand bendable "large" paper clips
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