I kicked my little donkey! (microstick).

[Busted knuckles]

(I'm pretty sure this isn't the right place for this, but don't know if most microstick owners read the modders forums). If it needs to be moved, I apolojise.

So the builder of this mod, chels, says that you can't put a kick in a microstick. I beg to differ!
The extension piece is a little too short for a standard kick so I ground the posts off both ends of my kick (see pics).
Since the entire mod is coated with a cerracoat type coating and the kick needs a negative ground, I filed a grove for the negative pin in the battery tube. And finally drilled and pressed a brass pin to get a negative ground from the main body to the extention where the kick sits.

I know, a lot of work just to fit a kick, right? Well, I now have the smallest regulated mod in existance!
So small that I can hold it with three fingers. And it hits great, much better that not kicked. It didn't hit very well before, I think it may have quite a bit of v drop but I haven't tested it. (sorry chels).

I'm so happy with this thing I just had to share it with ya'll!



Hole for negative pin.

negative pin pressed into the extention piece and filed grove in the batt tube.

Ground off the pins on both sides of the kick. I left just enough pin to make a connection.

 

[Asbestos4004]

Wow! Way to go, dude! I would have been too afraid to go cutting and grinding on that thing. I watched Scott's review of the Microstik and have wanted one ever since. Seems like a pretty cool device.

 

[Busted knuckles]

Its Small! Really Nice Pocket Vape. I Highly Recommend It.

 

[72xmulch]

Thanks for posting this, very useful

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Excellent!

Recommendation: Get some clear nail polish and coat the PCB to conformal coat the solder joints to protect it from shorts, original kick had that funky weird clear heatshrink wrapping on it (ask me how I know)

 

[Monkey Puzzle]

(I'm pretty sure this isn't the right place for this, but don't know if most microstick owners read the modders forums). If it needs to be moved, I apolojise.

So the builder of this mod, chels, says that you can't put a kick in a microstick. I beg to differ!
The extension piece is a little too short for a standard kick so I ground the posts off both ends of my kick (see pics).
Since the entire mod is coated with a cerracoat type coating and the kick needs a negative ground, I filed a grove for the negative pin in the battery tube. And finally drilled and pressed a brass pin to get a negative ground from the main body to the extention where the kick sits.

I know, a lot of work just to fit a kick, right? Well, I now have the smallest regulated mod in existance!
So small that I can hold it with three fingers. And it hits great, much better that not kicked. It didn't hit very well before, I think it may have quite a bit of v drop but I haven't tested it. (sorry chels).

I'm so happy with this thing I just had to share it with ya'll!


View attachment 291156
Hole for negative pin.
View attachment 291155
negative pin pressed into the extention piece and filed grove in the batt tube.
View attachment 291158
Ground off the pins on both sides of the kick. I left just enough pin to make a connection.
View attachment 291160

View attachment 291161

Excellent work! I did a similar thing with my reo mini (in my case I sanded off an area of anodizing and milled out the body to allow an 18500 or 18350+kick rather than 14500). Can' wait for my microstick to arrive - looks a great little mod

Is there a possibility for a kick module in the part of the extender beneath the atty connector, or would those connecting screws get in the way?

Is the hole and brass pin just going into the aluminium body of the mod - as in, you filed to allow the kick pins to ground to the aluminium body of the mod and then drilled a hole and put brass pin in elsewhere in the body to ground to the brass connector in the extender?

Cheers, and again, great work!

 

[Busted knuckles]

Excellent work! I did a similar thing with my reo mini (in my case I sanded off an area of anodizing and milled out the body to allow an 18500 or 18350+kick rather than 14500). Can' wait for my microstick to arrive - looks a great little mod

Is there a possibility for a kick module in the part of the extender beneath the atty connector, or would those connecting screws get in the way?

Is the hole and brass pin just going into the aluminium body of the mod - as in, you filed to allow the kick pins to ground to the aluminium body of the mod and then drilled a hole and put brass pin in elsewhere in the body to ground to the brass connector in the extender?

Cheers, and again, great work!

Thanks.
It's funny, I was just thinking this morning about drilling out the area under the atty connector! I'm not sure if there's enough room as the body of the device tapers towards that side. I have it right here in front of me and, just eyeballing it with an 18350, it looks like you'd have nothing left on the one side but aluminum foil if you drilled it out.

warhawk, That sounds like an interesting story! Thanks for the tip.

 

[Conchord George]

Nice work. Waiting on mine to ship, as well. Wish the extensions matched the main body, though. I didn't order it because I thought it looked too funky. Now, seeing this...

 

[Busted knuckles]

Nice work. Waiting on mine to ship, as well. Wish the extensions matched the main body, though. I didn't order it because I thought it looked too funky. Now, seeing this...

Yeah, I bought the extention with just this project in mind! Otherwise I don't think it's worth the extra size just to have a little extra battery power. For me, an 18350 lasts all day even with the voltage loss of the kick.

 

[Dontknow]

Yeah, I bought the extention with just this project in mind! Otherwise I don't think it's worth the extra size just to have a little extra battery power. For me, an 18350 lasts all day even with the voltage loss of the kick.

When I started to read this, I thought .
A working kick fitted to the MicroStick would make it even more special than it already is.
But - assuming that this is just a connector to conduct current from the neg of the kick to the neg of the 510, it seemed doable.
Then I realised that with my eyesight and unsteady hands - it's just beyond me now.
I wonder, why wouldn't Chels just produce the extension with this connector already in place?
Wouldn't interfere with those wanting to put in a 18500 battery - but, being able to just drop in a kick - major improvement...
Unless of course - I've misinterpreted the solution employed above.
Either way - well done @Busted...
If I thought I could emulate it (without trashing it), I'd have at it...

 

[Busted knuckles]

When I started to read this, I thought .
A working kick fitted to the MicroStick would make it even more special than it already is.
But - assuming that this is just a connector to conduct current from the neg of the kick to the neg of the 510, it seemed doable.
Then I realised that with my eyesight and unsteady hands - it's just beyond me now.
I wonder, why wouldn't Chels just produce the extension with this connector already in place?
Wouldn't interfere with those wanting to put in a 18500 battery - but, being able to just drop in a kick - major improvement...
Unless of course - I've misinterpreted the solution employed above.
Either way - well done @Busted...
If I thought I could emulate it (without trashing it), I'd have at it...

No, I think you understand. Is essentially a two part modification. You will file or grind through the coating of the battery tube in the extention to create a contact point for the kick. then you'll drill into the facing surfaces of the microstick and the extender, where you can lightly press fit a copper pin so as to let current flow between the two bodies. The copper pin needs to be loose enough on one side to slide in and out of the hole, so you can remove the extention.

If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, I'm sure you could find a machinist who can do it for a reasonable price. I'd be happy to help you with any info you might need. Feel free to pm me.

I've been using this moded microstick for four months now and it's the best device I've ever used! Really it's the only device I need. I have a spheroid, a kayfun mini, and a Minigen that I use in this device and they cover any and all of my vaping needs. Well, mostly, I have a nemesis for dripping!

 

[Dontknow]

+1..!
With thanks to BustedKnuckles for the procedure and guidance, I now also have a kicked MicroStick.
With only a single diversion - the process was surprisingly straight forward, if rather nervy at the same time.
My diversion was to try and get a connection between the extender and the negative base of the 510 connector directly... Although this is definitely doable, the measuring required was beyond me (and my eyes). I then tried to find a suitable pogo type switch to inset into the extender - the spring of which would then push against the negative base of the 510 when they get presented. Unfortunately I couldn't find a suitable pogo - shame as this would've been quite an elegant solution.
So - diversion over, I returned to the method as outlined by BustedKnuckles. As I said, pretty straight forward really. I was pretty nervous that I might stuff the whole thing up! But - the method (for me) turned out very well indeed!
This worked perfectly for me - your mileage might vary...


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[ThreeDJ16]

Hmmm.

There "may" be the slight possibility that your extender part has not completely snapped home completely into the main body?
I do remember when doing mine that there was a puzzling period where the contacts were not all making it home to complete the circuit.
You might try just applying a little more pressure (fingers only) to push the main body and the extender together tightly (of course making sure that no crud has make it's way in between closing surfaces).
It seems more likely that something is not making it home - rather than the supplied extender positive pin being short.
Either way - good luck with that...


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Thanks. But it is a brand new extension, so no crude, plus I cleaned the bottom plate. It inserts fully into the key way. Very first day I had it (which was Friday), I tested it and same thing. You can leave the back off and see clearly it is all the way into position. And the pin just barely makes it through the bottom plate. The only way to get it working was to put more force on the battery by extending the screw contact point. We are probably talking less than half a mm, but just enough for it not to work. Even after the mod, which involved removing the coating from both sides and taking off a small amount on the extension side, same thing. You can clearly see it is fully seated with the bottom cover off. But no big deal. Easy fix.

So you actually had to grind out part of your contact bad for the kick to fit?

Sorry, I moved my post here since this is where it belongs. Will post the pic of my kick extension in a bit.

 

[Dontknow]

Thanks. But it is a brand new extension, so no crude, plus I cleaned the bottom plate. It inserts fully into the key way. Very first day I had it (which was Friday), I tested it and same thing. You can leave the back off and see clearly it is all the way into position. And the pin just barely makes it through the bottom plate. The only way to get it working was to put more force on the battery by extending the screw contact point. We are probably talking less than half a mm, but just enough for it not to work. Even after the mod, which involved removing the coating from both sides and taking off a small amount on the extension side, same thing. You can clearly see it is fully seated with the bottom cover off. But no big deal. Easy fix.

So you actually had to grind out part of your contact bad for the kick to fit?

Sorry, I moved my post here since this is where it belongs. Will post the pic of my kick extension in a bit.

Strange, but as you say - an easy fix.
Yes, I did have to grind off a bit of the positive contact on the base - otherwise I couldn't close the button/firing mechanism. Odd that we seem to be getting different results with what must be same/similar kit...
Hope you do manage to solve it without too much more difficulty - it's certainly worth the trouble...


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[ThreeDJ16]

Strange, but as you say - an easy fix.
Yes, I did have to grind off a bit of the positive contact on the base - otherwise I couldn't close the button/firing mechanism. Odd that we seem to be getting different results with what must be same/similar kit...
Hope you do manage to solve it without too much more difficulty - it's certainly worth the trouble...


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One thing that is different and saving me a little space, I am using a clone kick2. Doesn't handle quite as low of resistance as the Kick2, but everything is about the same. That and the fact I have had my Kick2 for a whole 2 days and it died before even getting a chance to use it in the MS. At least my clones are still going strong and I can buy four or more of them for the price of the real Kick2.

Here is a pic of how I went about it. Just cut a small piece of copper to fit. Ground the coatng of both sides. The extension side had to take off a little more so it would fit all the way flush. And took off the coating inside the extension battery area for the negative pins.

 

[Dontknow]

Ah, the cloned kick is a littler smaller? Interesting... I'll use one of those in my next effort...


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[ThreeDJ16]

Ah, the cloned kick is a littler smaller? Interesting... I'll use one of those in my next effort...


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Yup, the kick2 has that one huge side in which you cannot shorten, so you can only take off from the other side. The clone allows you to remove material from both sides. Also good news on my dead Kick2, Evolv is replacing it for me....yah.

 

[Dontknow]

Yup, the kick2 has that one huge side in which you cannot shorten, so you can only take off from the other side. The clone allows you to remove material from both sides. Also good news on my dead Kick2, Evolv is replacing it for me....yah.

Yeah! Nice one...


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[Busted knuckles]

That's an elegant solution for body to body contact drunk J.
Yeah, the cheap kick clone works better for this project as you can grind enough material off the contacts that the switch can fully screw down. With both contacts ground down as far as they can go and still make contact My switch has about a millimeter of throw, which I really like!

 

[ThreeDJ16]

That's an elegant solution for body to body contact drunk J.
Yeah, the cheap kick clone works better for this project as you can grind enough material off the contacts that the switch can fully screw down. With both contacts ground down as far as they can go and still make contact My switch has about a millimeter of throw, which I really like!

Thanks!

Yeah, I need to grind just a little bit more on my Kick2 clone. Can't quite screw mine button all the way down. Haven't had a chance to mess with it in a couple of days. Hopefully this evening I will finish it up.