I may be slow but I'm persistent. I've found that my sweetie like it that way. 
Introducing - The PureSmoker LEGACY!
- Thread starter CaSHMeRe
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Those flat tops look thicker than the slant. I mean, more than the obvious fact that there is more material there.
And in my honest opinion they work better than the slant caps. On the slant caps I always had to make minor adjustments to make connection. With the flat tops no problems with anything I've put on em.
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They are the exact same height as the slant, its just more of an optical illusion
I only have one genesis that has a major connection problem (mini cobra clone). If I decide to use that one for the day, I'll toss the washer in. Otherwise, I have a tiny keychain jewelers screwdriver that I can raise the screw then allow it to seat itself to the perfect height as I thread on my atomizer or carto.
Small price to pay for such a bulletproof mod!
Cash: Have you considered a powdercoat option for the tubes? I'm picking up a powdercoating setup in about a week and am going to do a matte black tube with a torch blued cap and switch /drool
Will post pictures of the finished unit
Small price to pay for such a bulletproof mod!
Cash: Have you considered a powdercoat option for the tubes? I'm picking up a powdercoating setup in about a week and am going to do a matte black tube with a torch blued cap and switch /drool
Will post pictures of the finished unit
Got bored (and my adderall refilled) and decided to torch everything before I coat it just for giggles. the cap and switch came out nice... The el-cheapo drip tip and satin finished stuff... not so much, but the satin stuff is all getting coated, so no worries in my mind:
Popping in to say I love my Legacy w/ KICK! Better add this to my signature, since I haven't been on ECF in ages..
Xobeloot's legacy v3
Torch blued cap/switch after one round of polishing.
Shown with Vicious Ant Cyclone RDA
Torch blued cap/switch after one round of polishing.
Shown with Vicious Ant Cyclone RDA
Another satisfied Legacy owner here! Naolox user as well. My Lead and Manager at work both have one and report a marked improvement of battery life using Naolox on all the threads to improve the ground connection. My Legacy has been going strong for 2 months and I'm sure I'll have it for years to come. Now if I could only get my Terminator-C leaking issue sorted....
Not sure how to use the Naolox. Have rubbed some Naolox on the threads and even the bottom button. Should Naolox be used between The Kick's spring and the sleeve too?
Pictures anyone?
Thanks!
Pictures anyone?
Thanks!
I wouldn't. There's some advice in a post a few pages back about twisting the kick if it loses good ground and cleaning the metal in the sleeve where the kick touches it. I wouldn't get any chemicals on the kick. I wouldn't know what it could do so to me better safe than sorry.
I follow the recommendations of Super T Manufacturing for their Kicklet (which is a housing for the Kick, if you're not familiar with it). They recommend Noalox on the upper and lower contacts of the Kick, plus some at the point where the Kick spring contacts the mod wall. Works great, and keeps the Kick kickin' along just fine.
Question:
Got the Smok Vapesafe fuse which is about twice as thick as the original. Some batteries I have are also longer than the AW or Effest (Panasonic).
Was wondering is there is an easy way to create more inside room lengthwise in the Legacy? Maybe sanding down the black plastic bottom ring? And removing a bit of the positive post underside by sanding it?
Any suggestions? (I know, get the original fuse... I will. But apart from that?) I have two Legacy so one could be made "longer inside" for Pany or Smok setups while the other remaining untouched.
Thanks!
Got the Smok Vapesafe fuse which is about twice as thick as the original. Some batteries I have are also longer than the AW or Effest (Panasonic).
Was wondering is there is an easy way to create more inside room lengthwise in the Legacy? Maybe sanding down the black plastic bottom ring? And removing a bit of the positive post underside by sanding it?
Any suggestions? (I know, get the original fuse... I will. But apart from that?) I have two Legacy so one could be made "longer inside" for Pany or Smok setups while the other remaining untouched.
Thanks!
Looking at my switch, i'd say you could easily shave about 1/8" off the black delrin post where the spring sits. You may need to either grind down the brass screw to sit lower with it or just grab a new brass screw that is 1/8" shorter from Ace hardware.
The top brass button could probably be shaved down ~1/32" without cutting into the threaded sleeve.
Otherwise, you could remove the positive brass screw and post, countersink the black delrin with a 5/16" hole about 1/16", cut about 1/16" off of the tube portion on top and get a slightly shorter positive contact screw.
The idea stream is about endless in my mind right now. BLAH! now I have to brain-dump all of this so I can sleep.
LOL at Tardis.
Thanks for the suggestions.
What I did is take a Dremel grinding stone to the inside positive post. Removed about 2/3 of it. Now is almost flush with Delrin insulator. Sanded and polished flat. Did the job perfectly. Didn't encounter the outside screw threading, luckily.
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