Are you sure it's the battery? I thought I had that too but it ended up being the battery door. Take it off and squeeze it together just a bit, see if that makes a diff.
IPV D2 announced.
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Are you sure it's the battery? I thought I had that too but it ended up being the battery door. Take it off and squeeze it together just a bit, see if that makes a diff.
Just started playing with my D2, not sure if it is just my device, apparently I find that the flavor production using D2 is not as intense compare to other mods. But the vapor produce is massive.
Does anyone have such experience?
Btw I am just starting the power mode with Kanger ST 0.5 ohm OCC.
Does anyone have such experience?
Btw I am just starting the power mode with Kanger ST 0.5 ohm OCC.
Have you used this same Head and Tank on another mod to compare?
Are you running this at the same wattage expecting the same result as __x___
No two brands of mods are twins. minor variations exist, but Flavor/Vapor is Tank, not Mod.
Massive Vapor, as in more than usual may mean running wattage to high. This can wipe out flavor.
I'm running the Maganus .5 occ on my D2 at 38w at the moment and its producing superb flavor and better clouds than it did on my IPV4.. can't really explain why that is but I think the D2 might have a better chip, even in power mode..
Its just the opposite running the Arctic with the .2 ohm coil... The Arctic blows better clouds/flavor at 60w on the V4 than it does on the D2 with same juice and watt settings...so I don't really know why one mod might hit better than the other given the same parameters...other than dual batts for a more consistent power supply vaping a .2 ohm coil at the higher wattages...
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
FYI tootie puffing is not making your own builds nor is it using a sub tank or sub ohm
That's not true, lots of Tootle Puffers make their own builds. Hell, anyone with a Kayfun, Orchid, Rose, Lemo, Ubertoot, Erlkonigen, Aqua, Squape, etc, is by default a Tootle Puffer since they're all pretty much airflow restrictive and don't support sub-ohm coils that well either. So, Tootle Puffing is not limited to pre-built coil users, not by a long shot.
I was referring to the TC comment
You might be a Tootle Puffer if:
1. You don't exceed 20W
2. You own an Ego, Provari, or 10 or 20W istick
3. You own a non subohm clearomizer
4. You collect MolehillMountain drip tips
5. You have no interest in subohming
6. You have a Kayfun, but not an Orchid
7. You have a single coil dripper built over 1 ohm
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I'll be frank. Not that long. With light to moderate vaping it might last me the day. I'm thinking about buying some extra batts. Probably gonna get vtc4
Some say it is .3 top, but I'm at .33 and it is working great. Just have to give your build a test lock before wicking and filling.
Depends on the battery mAh. A Samsung 25-R will last me about half a day (a good 4-5 hours). And I am a pretty heavy vaper (though I don't exceed 20 watts). I am puffing on my setup almost constantly. An LG HG2 (3000 mAh) will last me an hour or two longer (maybe 6-7 hours).
It just depends on how much you vape. I am sure for some people an LG HG2 3000 mAh will last them all day on this device.
I don't know, but I swear this happens to me. I don't know if it's mental but I thought the EXACT same thing about the D2 when I first got it. I am thinking it hits a bit "harder" than some of my other mods, which counts for the difference of flavor but I don't know that for sure. This has been a thing with me forever.. getting -/+ flavor from different mods. Even after adjusting setting to try to match each others flavor production there is still a difference.
Is it possible that the signal differences of the chips used in mods can account for the flavor differences?
Another thing is after a "break-in" period with a mod the flavors start to even out between them. Could this be or am I going coo-coo?
I must mention that I have a very keen sense of taste. It's usually a good thing but sometimes I hate it because I can pick up the slightest differences from e-liquids from batch to batch, sometimes good and sometimes bad. It's a double-edged tongue sword
Has anyone had their atomizer's 510 twist the center pin of the IPVd2 when screwing it on? I was wondering if this can eventually disconnect the solder at the 510.. is this possible or how much force would be needed to wreck that solder joint?
Check the bottom of your atomizers for Burs/damage
A slight turn would be normal and the internal wire connection should act as a coil returning the pin once any resistance is releases.
Every Device is going ot have its won ramp designed in.
You can play with joules in temp mode to settle down or boost response. Watts mode is best guess settings and .1 watt may make the difference.
Devices control power
People control devices
YMMV
Flavor settling is slow fail of the wick. let one go a bit to long, then when tank is empty, quickly clean and rewick on a freshly brushed coil. Considerable flavor/vapor difference.
Not my case, for obvious reasons soon to be exposed......
This question arose in Spanish forums some days ago. I noticed some gap in the insulator of the 510 central pin, and soon other users confirmed that too.
The IPV D2 appears to share the same makeshift spring loaded 510 connections that the IPV4/4S and early SX mini, and probably some more Pioneer4You mods. It's been described as "a phenolic (as resin) washer" which is being pulled up by a spring beneath it, which sets its base support in a similar resin piece behind. In the axis of the full piece runs the positive 510, soldered to the chip wire, and a half screw, half bolt, pushed up by the washer, acts as real central 510 conector....
Here you have some pictures, some mine, some borrowed....
The entire assembly on an SX Mini.
The central wire and core, where the visible screw fits.
Disassembled set, except for the piece soldered to the wire.
Up-down view of my own IPV D2, where you can notice the gap between 60º and around 160º of that washer. I've been told that everyone has more or less the same.
Once I had verified this issue, I ran into absurdly paranoid suspicions and started screwing my atomizer with 510 drip-tip washers. The main benefit is insulating the 510 from spills and floods, but also it creates a separation (at the expense of the appearance of the topper, now obviously separated from the mod) which avoids ruining the paint job behind the atomizer, and gets easy with the spring - loaded mechanism. Also, you can set your atomizers (I'm thinking of single coiled drippers) with the best air inlet orientation. See that on a Trident (matching colour, of course....
):
Then I checked more pictures and found this one in a review video by VapNFagan:
It's the 510 assembly as it appears on an IPV4S, roughly the same as it is in our IPV D2:
The Spanish text says "Positive pin and the sealed 510, using the bottom edge of the resin piece as seal, and also as base support for the spring. Over them, the pipe with the 510 threads that closes the sides of the 510".
The idea is that the visible washer is not, at any circumstance, a seal for liquids, but the bottom part of the resin piece is. So leakages inside the always tender chip are not easily expected, and if you do not force the spring with long protruding atomizers, the (mechanical) tear of the pin or the washer are not counted upon either.
Call me paranoid, but it works for me, at least to my relief.....
Disclaimer: I'm not sure who did some of the pictures above. As I said, some are mine, some are screen captures from an IPV4S review by VapnFagan, and some appeared on Spanish forums when I asked about this, but if my memory serves, I think some were posted precisely here, in ECF.
Big time to thank those involved!
I have had my IPV D2 for a couple of weeks now. I am using my DIY high vg custard. I have used the Kanger horizontal coils also the rba and didn't notice a lot of difference compared to my Hcigar 50. I used the vertical coils that I got when I ordered my D2. It kicked it up a notch for flavor and vapor. Not sure if there would be a difference with my Hcigar I doubt it. A while ago I put in the nickel coil and well it kicked it up another notch for me. I am running 30 joules with a temp of 425. I am still trying to tweak it. This could take some time lol. Not sure when or if I will get nickel wire to build in my rba. Over all I am very happy with the D2. Nice size very sturdy at a great price. I like the dc charger over the usb.
Yes that is exactly what is in the D2. They work just fine as they should. There is no 510's that are liquid proof, even the fat daddy, varitube and all other high end 510's will not hold liquid. I should rephrase that maybe. There are no adjustable 510's that hold liquid there maybe some solid that are liquid proof. That is a neat idea you have there though with the oring I never thought about that, but I really never have leakage very often. I do not think that TC will work correctly with a oring on there though. I think the atty needs to be fully seated to get a proper reading.Not my case, for obvious reasons soon to be exposed......
This question arose in Spanish forums some days ago. I noticed some gap in the insulator of the 510 central pin, and soon other users confirmed that too.
The IPV D2 appears to share the same makeshift spring loaded 510 connections that the IPV4/4S and early SX mini, and probably some more Pioneer4You mods. It's been described as "a phenolic (as resin) washer" which is being pulled up by a spring beneath it, which sets its base support in a similar resin piece behind. In the axis of the full piece runs the positive 510, soldered to the chip wire, and a half screw, half bolt, pushed up by the washer, acts as real central 510 conector....
Here you have some pictures, some mine, some borrowed....
The entire assembly on an SX Mini.
The central wire and core, where the visible screw fits.
Disassembled set, except for the piece soldered to the wire.
Up-down view of my own IPV D2, where you can notice the gap between 60º and around 160º of that washer. I've been told that everyone has more or less the same.
Once I had verified this issue, I ran into absurdly paranoid suspicions and started screwing my atomizer with 510 drip-tip washers. The main benefit is insulating the 510 from spills and floods, but also it creates a separation (at the expense of the appearance of the topper, now obviously separated from the mod) which avoids ruining the paint job behind the atomizer, and gets easy with the spring - loaded mechanism. Also, you can set your atomizers (I'm thinking of single coiled drippers) with the best air inlet orientation. See that on a Trident (matching colour, of course....
Then I checked more pictures and found this one in a review video by VapNFagan:
It's the 510 assembly as it appears on an IPV4S, roughly the same as it is in our IPV D2:
The Spanish text says "Positive pin and the sealed 510, using the bottom edge of the resin piece as seal, and also as base support for the spring. Over them, the pipe with the 510 threads that closes the sides of the 510".
The idea is that the visible washer is not, at any circumstance, a seal for liquids, but the bottom part of the resin piece is. So leakages inside the always tender chip are not easily expected, and if you do not force the spring with long protruding atomizers, the (mechanical) tear of the pin or the washer are not counted upon either.
Call me paranoid, but it works for me, at least to my relief.....
Disclaimer: I'm not sure who did some of the pictures above. As I said, some are mine, some are screen captures from an IPV4S review by VapnFagan, and some appeared on Spanish forums when I asked about this, but if my memory serves, I think some were posted precisely here, in ECF.
Big time to thank those involved!
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