I've just moved over to TC and now I've moved back. I purchased some of Vaporsharks TSC' s for my Atlantis V2 and if I'm honest I preferred my .3 ohm coils got better flavour and more vapour than the TSC' s. But I'm new to this and really don't want give up to easily. I've also got a smok vct pro and a joytech delta 2 maybe it's the product and I should try some Ni200 coils for those tanks. Or you guys could point me in the right direction. I have been thinking I really should be building my own by now but I've got a really hectic life with work kids and pets. And the only place I can do anything like that is the kitchen work top which always makes the better half moan.....I need a man cave (garden shed)......any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Is temperature control really worth it
- Thread starter Jace75
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I have a couple of DNA40 temperature protected mods that I've used with a couple of tanks and drippers, but I always make my coils. I don't have any of the tanks you do. It would have been good if you told us how you set up the power and temperature on your mod, but I can still talk about my experience 
There are basically two ways to set up a TP mod. One is to use power (watts) to control the vape and the temperature to stop dry hits. In other words the temperature protection does not kick in while vaping unless the coil becomes dry enough to let its temperature rise. I consider this temperature protection as opposed to temperature control. The DNA boards were designed with this in mind and do it very well. This is also how we are used to doing things without TP.
The second is to set up so the set wire temperature is reached during vaping and TP kicks in on every drag to reduce the power and maintain temp, which I think of as temperature control.
In order to do this you need to set up your atty so that at the power you set the wick will not move juice fast enough to keep the coil wet enough to keep the temperature below your setpoint. A coil that has enough juice on it will not overheat as long as you're not putting unreasonably high power into it. I never found a way to do this that gave me as consistent a vape as when I was power limited. I didn't find any benefit for flavor or vapor production using TC compared to TP so I stuck with TP. I find TP very nice to have if I'm using a tank that sometimes gives me a burnt/dry hit. With RDAs I've gone back to non TP mode because I find it easier to work with and maintain Kanthal coils and I never get a dry hit with them anyway. I've tried nickel, titanium, Ni/Ti twisted and Kanthal/Ni twisted.
Cotton starts to singe at between 410-420 deg F when it's dry, however it will never be totally dry once it has juice on it. When I use a new atty or a new setup in TP mode I already have a good idea how many watts it can handle without dry hits, but I don't know what coil temperature it normally runs at. If I know it will handle 40 watts and I want to run it at 30 watts I set 30 watts and 440 deg and vape it. If the TP kicks in I raise the temperature until I'm around 20 deg over the threshold. I've gone as high as 540 deg F, but that's rare and if it happens I change the coil setup to one which will run cooler.
I find there is no gain in flavor or vapor production with TP or TC, it's all about avoiding burnt hits for me. You don't make your own coils but the theory is the same weather you make them or buy heads.
Hope that helps a bit Jace
There are basically two ways to set up a TP mod. One is to use power (watts) to control the vape and the temperature to stop dry hits. In other words the temperature protection does not kick in while vaping unless the coil becomes dry enough to let its temperature rise. I consider this temperature protection as opposed to temperature control. The DNA boards were designed with this in mind and do it very well. This is also how we are used to doing things without TP.
The second is to set up so the set wire temperature is reached during vaping and TP kicks in on every drag to reduce the power and maintain temp, which I think of as temperature control.
In order to do this you need to set up your atty so that at the power you set the wick will not move juice fast enough to keep the coil wet enough to keep the temperature below your setpoint. A coil that has enough juice on it will not overheat as long as you're not putting unreasonably high power into it. I never found a way to do this that gave me as consistent a vape as when I was power limited. I didn't find any benefit for flavor or vapor production using TC compared to TP so I stuck with TP. I find TP very nice to have if I'm using a tank that sometimes gives me a burnt/dry hit. With RDAs I've gone back to non TP mode because I find it easier to work with and maintain Kanthal coils and I never get a dry hit with them anyway. I've tried nickel, titanium, Ni/Ti twisted and Kanthal/Ni twisted.
Cotton starts to singe at between 410-420 deg F when it's dry, however it will never be totally dry once it has juice on it. When I use a new atty or a new setup in TP mode I already have a good idea how many watts it can handle without dry hits, but I don't know what coil temperature it normally runs at. If I know it will handle 40 watts and I want to run it at 30 watts I set 30 watts and 440 deg and vape it. If the TP kicks in I raise the temperature until I'm around 20 deg over the threshold. I've gone as high as 540 deg F, but that's rare and if it happens I change the coil setup to one which will run cooler.
I find there is no gain in flavor or vapor production with TP or TC, it's all about avoiding burnt hits for me. You don't make your own coils but the theory is the same weather you make them or buy heads.
Hope that helps a bit Jace
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