Smok XPro M80 Plus - new version, v6 firmware: temperature control testing results

[dr g]

I just bought this smok m80 plus and have been more then happy with it. The Goliath works perfect with it. I noticed the temp control DOES work perfect on the new hardware and upgraded software on the mother board. I use Kanthal because i can't stand nickel wire A hate it. But when I use the temp control I notice I never get a burnt hit.The wattage fluxuates, Even with Kanthal wire. Thats all I want from Temp control. People that dis and put this device down and say all that harsh **** about it need to look at this thing again. (If you seen some of the videos on youtube).
FYI: The perfect fit for this device is the Goliath. WOW!!!

well they put it down because temp control does not work, at least not like temp control. it basically just fires on a wattage curve. that's why it "works" on kanthal ... it's not actually responding to the temperature of anything.

 

[MagicJosh]

well they put it down because temp control does not work, at least not like temp control. it basically just fires on a wattage curve. that's why it "works" on kanthal ... it's not actually responding to the temperature of anything.

It works well for what it does. But that does make sense.

 

[MagicJosh]

well they put it down because temp control does not work, at least not like temp control. it basically just fires on a wattage curve. that's why it "works" on kanthal ... it's not actually responding to the temperature of anything.

Thy should name it ''wattage curve''

 

[ThunderDan]

Thy should name it ''wattage curve''

I like "dynamic wattage" myself. Heh. Either way they shouldn't call it temperature control in a post DNA40 world.

 

[TheBloke]

I like "dynamic wattage" myself. Heh. Either way they shouldn't call it temperature control in a post DNA40 world.

Yeah, and all the signs are that that was not an innocent confusion but a deliberate lie intended to tap into the post-DNA40 TC world when they knew their product was fundamentally different (and inferior.)

Bad Smok, bad.

 

[eLefAdEr]

Has anyone seen a disassembly guide for the M80? My Google-fu is weak. Top and bottom plates come off easily but something is preventing me from sliding out the "guts" and I don't want to risk damaging it further.

 

[TheBloke]

Has anyone seen a disassembly guide for the M80? My Google-fu is weak. Top and bottom plates come off easily but something is preventing me from sliding out the "guts" and I don't want to risk damaging it further.

Search YouTube for DJ Lsb's first and second videos of the M80, he took it apart a bit in the first video, and then by the time of the second his first M80 had died so he took it completely apart I believe.

I'm not sure if he showed the second dismantle in detail, but he did show the end result which might be enough to get more information on how to do it.

 

[Ablonz]

Here is a monkey wrench thrown in to the equation. I was reading this thread and it got me wondering about the so called "temp control" with kanthal. I took what you guys were saying about it reading and still working so I put on my own little test. Here are my findings. I set my temp to 200 f for not burning my brand new coil on my mini nautilus. Then I set the wattage to 8.5 watts like I normally vape it at. The nice thing about setting the watts is that it never went above 185 f with watts set to 8.5. If I keep the temp at 200 and set my wattage to lets say 22 for a nice round number, it will only fire it at no more than 10.4 watts which puts it at 200 f and also holds true if I set it all the way to 80 watts with temp max at 200. There fore representing "temp control". I would also say that they have it at a set "curve" like you also mentioned which is why it works the way it does. The whole burning cotton thing does disappoint me to a certain extent, I think I am satisfied with the overall "temp control" with only spending a quarter of the amount vs the VS DNA40. As for this I know that when the taste mutes and vapor decreases, it is time to drip more with my RDA to which using a mech mod or my Sigelei has almost always gave me a burnt taste when cotton is at the same dryness. It does clearly give a real close resemblance to dry burning without the dry burn taste as I can get my cotton just about bone dry and not burn the cotton. Hope this helps ease the mind of some that are using it for temp control purposes.

 

[sucram]

A few have said the dry cotton test is useless, you don't need a degree to know you need to drip, the signs are pretty clear

 

[Sykriss]

Any other owners of a M80+ ever had issues with ohms jumping? I've got a .3 build with two 12 wrap 24 gauge coils in my CLT V2+. Every now and then the ohm reading for the build will jump around, sometimes to like .4/.5, other times above 1 ohm which causes an extremely hot vape. As such I've been checking the ohms a few times before hitting it nowadays.

 

[dr g]

I like "dynamic wattage" myself. Heh. Either way they shouldn't call it temperature control in a post DNA40 world.

That may be a little too generous lol
I mean it sort of suggests that the wattage can change in response to something, whereas the M80 doesn't really change in response to anything. It just varies, which technically a lot of fixed-wattage devices do as well, at least they have a ramp up and ramp down curve even if it is not a programmed curve.

 

[TheBloke]

Yeah, better not let Smok hear the idea of "dynamic". Next revision they'll claim it's dynamic because it changes in response to whether or not you're pressing the fire button

 

[sucram]

That may be a little too generous lol
I mean it sort of suggests that the wattage can change in response to something, whereas the M80 doesn't really change in response to anything. It just varies, which technically a lot of fixed-wattage devices do as well, at least they have a ramp up and ramp down curve even if it is not a programmed curve.

I had a quick look over the instructions and there isnt any mention of how to change the curve. I would like to try ramp down and i thought this unit could do it but unsure how to access that part of the menu

 

[TheBloke]

I had a quick look over the instructions and there isnt any mention of how to change the curve. I would like to try ramp down and i thought this unit could do it but unsure how to access that part of the menu

You can't change the curve. What you can do is switch to a different curve, by changing the configured Temperature. Which is five-clicks-on-fire to access the menu, then press fire three or four times until you get to Temp setting, then use up/down to adjust the temp.

Adjusting your wattage also modifies the curve, in that it sets a maximum. So if the curve wants to fire 45W at its highest, and you have 40W set, then it will fire 40W at the top of the curve and adjust the other numbers down proportionally.

I've had the same thought as you - if they made this a proper Wattage Curve feature, which was a) labelled Wattage Curve, not TC and b) allowed tuning to that curve, then the feature could be genuinely useful. As it is, meh.

(As an aside, the Yihi SX350/350J chips, as found in the Yihi SX Mini J and SX Mini M mods, have a feature similar to that - with their Soft, Normal, Powerful, Powerful+ settings. That changes the firing curve such that it ramps up or down differently. And that works in conjunction with their (real) TC. Sounds moderately useful, but sadly I don't have a SX350 myself to know for sure )

 

[ThunderDan]

You can't change the curve. What you can do is switch to a different curve, by changing the configured Temperature. Which is five-clicks-on-fire to access the menu, then press fire three or four times until you get to Temp setting, then use up/down to adjust the temp.

Adjusting your wattage also modifies the curve, in that it sets a maximum. So if the curve wants to fire 45W at its highest, and you have 40W set, then it will fire 40W at the top of the curve and adjust the other numbers down proportionally.

I've had the same thought as you - if they made this a proper Wattage Curve feature, which was a) labelled Wattage Curve, not TC and b) allowed tuning to that curve, then the feature could be genuinely useful. As it is, meh.

(As an aside, the Yihi SX350/350J chips, as found in the Yihi SX Mini J and SX Mini M mods, have a feature similar to that - with their Soft, Normal, Powerful, Powerful+ settings. That changes the firing curve such that it ramps up or down differently. And that works in conjunction with their (real) TC. Sounds moderately useful, but sadly I don't have a SX350 myself to know for sure )

I find the Soft, Standard, Powerful, Powerful+ settings more useful in Power mode honestly. In Joules mode I pretty much just leave it on Standard.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I find the Soft, Standard, Powerful, Powerful+ settings more useful in Power mode honestly. In Joules mode I pretty much just leave it on Standard.

It doesn't work properly in joules mode needs fixing!!

 

[TheBloke]

It doesn't work properly in joules mode needs fixing!!

Ah! How so?


PS. Busardo just got up his belated review of the M80. Naturally he gave it a thumbs down because of not-TC. But I'm actually quite disappointed. I thought he was going to finally prove what we've known all along, use his scopes to point at TC and call it the lie it is.

But he did none of that. He didn't even seem to look at the screen. He just did what everyone else did, a couple of dry cotton tests, and declared it useless. We know it's useless. It's also a LIE, that's the key point.

He didn't even point out that the "TC" works identically in Kanthal, which is the most major red flag of it being not TC. He did all his tests using Nickel. I guess he didn't even realise it works identically with Kanthal - he bought the lie as much as most people have (though at least he didn't, like some reviewers, call it "basic" rather than "broken")

In fact he disappointed me doubly, when - having been told "a firmware upgrade fixes TC" - he went and upgraded his v6 to v6-1. And showed on camera the Smok page where it clearly says the only FW change in 6-1 is the addition of a proper "SHORT!" message. Nothing about TC at all. That was a complete waste of 5 minutes of screen time.

Bad Busardo, bad. I mean I know he gets a million things to review every day (lucky b......!) and he can't spend the time on the forums researching like we do. But still, I expected a bit more - I've always considered him the gold standard of YT reviews.

 

[NahkriinKrosis]

Hello all, I recently received my m80 in gold, and after perusing through this thread I realized I didn't receive the little rubber button with mine (v0006)

If someone was willing to part with it I would gladly paypal a few bucks!

 

[RaptorD.Meezus]

Hello all, I recently received my m80 in gold, and after perusing through this thread I realized I didn't receive the little rubber button with mine (v0006)

If someone was willing to part with it I would gladly paypal a few bucks!

They stopped sending those with the mod, most likely due to people taking apart and ruining their M80.

 

[NahkriinKrosis]

They stopped sending those with the mod, most likely due to people taking apart and ruining their M80.

Well obviously! But I don't care if I break it! I just want a rubber button.