KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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But it's not free! Lol....does it give heat flux values? Oops, nevermind, I see it does! I'll have to look into that one. Thanks
Is the heat flux the top left in the green section? The W/mm2 area?I like steam engine, but I've been really happy with the Micro Coil Pro android app as of late... awesome interface, and specs for batteries and attys.
Never mind. I see that it is. I have iPhone and have an app called Microcoil Pro Calc and it calls it "power density."I like steam engine, but I've been really happy with the Micro Coil Pro android app as of late... awesome interface, and specs for batteries and attys.
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Yup, gives you a good idea of how fast the wire will heat at a given wattage. It does not however take into account wicking density (juice flow), Vg/Pg ratio (vaporization temp), coil configuration (spaced coils vs. contact coils) or the biggest variable, excluding wattage, that changes coil temp (airflow).
That's a different app, but a good one. I'm just loving the interface on the other one...
Don't forget a simple thing like coil placement can effect vape temp a lot...
Yes watts is a good baseline, but there is so much more to consider.... It's why I like to build coils...its fun to build and tweek to try and improve performance
ok.. now it's time to show my build and get suggestion to make it even better. the wicking is my effort to .... kickers style which imo similar to pancake wicking...
pic 1: coil making - 24awg, 6 wraps, 0.49 ohm, 2.5mm dia
pic 2: placement on different angles
pic 3: dry burn
pic 4: wicking before and after
that's all...
now after giving a thought, the president built coil also gave me lots of spit back on the 1.2 ohm as well as the 0.5 ohm one.
so, am I doing stm correctly? the wicking before was using bunny ear method but I didn't jam it hard... just a little then rearrange so they won't be in the juice channel... like rip's method. I use this wicking method only since couple days ago
pic 1: coil making - 24awg, 6 wraps, 0.49 ohm, 2.5mm dia
pic 2: placement on different angles
pic 3: dry burn
pic 4: wicking before and after
that's all...
now after giving a thought, the president built coil also gave me lots of spit back on the 1.2 ohm as well as the 0.5 ohm one.
so, am I doing stm correctly? the wicking before was using bunny ear method but I didn't jam it hard... just a little then rearrange so they won't be in the juice channel... like rip's method. I use this wicking method only since couple days ago
The coil looks splendid Phassat!! Nice!!!
The wicking, well, next time I rewick I'll take some pics to show you the chunky wick with 45° cut wick tails. The 45° angles that I cut on the wick tails look just like the left side of your wick in the first image of your "pic 4: wicking before and after" series. When the wick tails get bent downward to the juice well deck ALL of the wick tail fibers end up touching the juice well deck. That way all of the fibers are picking up juice instead of just the ones closest to the wall of the juice well. Hope that makes sense....my pics will help hopefully.
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like this?
not shown but i also thin out the ends.
lasts for lots of juice, easily past 100mls, i lose track
like this?
not shown but i also thin out the ends
That's pretty close to what I do Vin. I cut a little more angle on the tails though so that those outside cotton fibers (the ones that come out of the top of the coil) contact the juice well deck too. Could be that's why I don't have to thin the tails?
That wick ain't chunky enough. You need slightly rounded shoulders coming out of the coil. Cigatron's pics will show it much better than a written description... Thinning the tails is a practice I first saw on the Rayon thread. Thinning is necessary for optimum Rayon wicking. Some have reported benefits thinning with organic cotton as well. I trim OC at a 45 Deg angle, like Cigatron suggests, "comb out" the tails with a toothpick, making sure not to molest the wicking in the coil itself (like .... Kickers), pre-saturate and place the tails into position with the toothpick. I don't "thin" the tails per say but the combing does thin a bit.
In RTAs, I much prefer tension-wound, spaced coils at 2.4mm and larger in diameter. 26G KA1 seems to be the sweet spot for the STM. I use twisted 30G, which is approximately equal to straight 27G.
Good luck!
So take a look at this. The tank on the right I bought in Vegas 2 weeks ago and the tank on the left I bought yesterday at a local b&m. Notice any differences?
These are both STM and there is no camera trickery. Photo was taken level so no angle difference and both were the same distance from the edge of my desk.
These are both STM and there is no camera trickery. Photo was taken level so no angle difference and both were the same distance from the edge of my desk.
I bought the second STM because I think I tightened the positive pole of the RBA too tight and when I went to put a new coil in, the threads just pulled off in the deck. No way to screw it back in cuz now it's too short to go through the insulator and screw into the deck. I needed a new RBA and no B&M had them in stock so I had to buy an entire new tank. But now I have spare parts.
Cigaton,
Are you using a coiling tool? I've not got one yet still using screw drivers and drill bits...
What happened here from what I could figure out, when I opened the new tank I decided to use it instead of the old one. When I was done with my build I filled and tightened the top on by holding the base and twisting the top with the Kanger logo on it. It got a little tight and I went to give it one last "snug" and the top with the logo spun but the cage didn't. When I got home at the end of the day I noticed after I took the glass off that the top O-ring didn't seem to fit. I then took out the tank from Vegas and saw the difference. I also noticed that the air tube on the one from Vegas has a beveled end and the one on the left does not.
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