KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[Rickb119]

Only tank I ever had that didn't leak from heat or altitude changes.

I have had a few issues when driving through the Colorado mountains. Eisenhower tunnel is a little over 11,000' and Vail pass is just under that (with lot's of ups and downs in between).

I've learned to keep the spare mod's (with tanks) upside down in the cup holders. Any spare tanks are kept upside down (in foam) in a travel humidor. Even so, my last trip one of the spare tanks (in the humidor) did leak ever so slightly. That taught me to not have them so full next time.

 

[Foggy Road]

Anyone rebuilding the OCC coils? Just stripped one out and it looks like an easier rebuild than the RBA with its 3 screws. Of course I'm a CLR fan also so I find the finger contortions required to hold the coil in place while screwing it down to be just slightly annoying.

Any comparison between rebuilt OCC and RBA performance?

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Anyone rebuilding the OCC coils? Just stripped one out and it looks like an easier rebuild than the RBA with its 3 screws. Of course I'm a CLR fan also so I find the finger contortions required to hold the coil in place while screwing it down to be just slightly annoying.

Any comparison between rebuilt OCC and RBA performance?

Anything new requires some patience while learning. Your coils(once placed)can last for months whether is a CLR or a ST mini rba and all you need to do is re-wick. I have swapped out a few of the screws with a flatter phillips head on them so they are easier to trap the wire. That has helped me.

 

[Foggy Road]

Anything new requires some patience while learning. Your coils(once placed)can last for months whether is a CLR or a ST mini rba and all you need to do is re-wick. I have swapped out a few of the screws with a flatter phillips head on them so they are easier to trap the wire. That has helped me.

Oh yeah S+S, the screws ain't new to me. I've worked with everything from the teensy eGrip RBA head to my Lemo V1s, Squape and others. The screws are just a minor inconvenience. I guess I just have a preference for trapping the wires in a grommet when doable.
Another inspiration for me is cost. I've got a ton of the OCCs and if they perform well rebuilt, why not? Then if I do decide to stock up on STM (style) tanks all I'll need to buy is a pile of bases and bell caps and skip the RBAs at least to start. Really haven't looked at the options yet tho. For all I know maybe the bases come with RBAs?

And from what I'm looking at here the OCC should be just as rewickable as the RBA once built to my spec. I'll give it a try when I have the time.

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Oh yeah S+S, the screws ain't new to me. I've worked with everything from the teensy eGrip RBA head to my Lemo V1s, Squape and others. The screws are just a minor inconvenience. I guess I just have a preference for trapping the wires in a grommet when doable.
Another inspiration for me is cost. I've got a ton of the OCCs and if they perform well rebuilt, why not? Then if I do decide to stock up on STM (style) tanks all I'll need to buy is a pile of bases and bell caps and skip the RBAs at least to start. Really haven't looked at the options yet tho. For all I know maybe the bases come with RBAs?

And from what I'm looking at here the OCC should be just as rewickable as the RBA once built to my spec. I'll give it a try when I have the time.

If you buy just the bases from FT, no rba's are included.

 

[Alter]

Anyone rebuilding the OCC coils? Just stripped one out and it looks like an easier rebuild than the RBA with its 3 screws. Of course I'm a CLR fan also so I find the finger contortions required to hold the coil in place while screwing it down to be just slightly annoying.

Any comparison between rebuilt OCC and RBA performance?

I've rebuilt some of the OCC coils and don't really have the success that I was expecting. I just don't find they work no where near as good as a RBA build of the same specs. I will one day when I have nothing better to do drill out the holes in the OCC head a bit bigger to accommodate a wider diameter build, so that might help. My biggest grief was once you got the coil inside the head trying to get your wrapping tool back through the coil to hold it inplace so you can secure the legs...mighty aggravating, mighty quickly.

 

[Foggy Road]

I've rebuilt some of the OCC coils and don't really have the success that I was expecting. I just don't find they work no where near as good as a RBA build of the same specs. I will one day when I have nothing better to do drill out the holes in the OCC head a bit bigger to accommodate a wider diameter build, so that might help. My biggest grief was once you got the coil inside the head trying to get your wrapping tool back through the coil to hold it inplace so you can secure the legs...mighty aggravating, mighty quickly.

Well, if it's a big pita, or doesn't perform well, with the first one I'll just let the idea go. Just Figger it's worth a shot since I got so darn many of them with my trade for the tank. No loss either way.

Thanks fer the info.

 

[halfempty]

Well, if it's a big pita, or doesn't perform well, with the first one I'll just let the idea go. Just Figger it's worth a shot since I got so darn many of them with my trade for the tank. No loss either way.

Thanks fer the info.

Do a search YouTube for "kanger occ rebuild". You'll find dozens of videos from people that have done it.

 

[lil_buddy]

forget it

 

[Foggy Road]

Do a search YouTube for "kanger occ rebuild". You'll find dozens of videos from people that have done it.

Duh! Now why dint I thank o dat? Thanx!

 

[ddirtyvapes]

How is rebuilding the newer OCC heads compared to the old ones? The last OCC head I rebuilt was one of the boxed-shape types. I usually just use the RBA section when I want to build on the subtank, but can't take it too low obviously...

Can anyone compare the performance of the "v2" RBA vs. the original, kayfun-style? Are the v2s still readily available?

 

[Leo Bak]

How is rebuilding the newer OCC heads compared to the old ones? The last OCC head I rebuilt was one of the boxed-shape types. I usually just use the RBA section when I want to build on the subtank, but can't take it too low obviously...

I've never used the OCC's, can't help you with that.

Can anyone compare the performance of the "v2" RBA vs. the original, kayfun-style? Are the v2s still readily available?

The V2s haven't been produced for quite some time now. Maybe some places will still have them in stock. If you buy authentics now, you'll probably get V3s.

The V2s wick a lot better than the V1s (see @vincom's V1 mod on the previous page). Look at the different sized juiceholes in this pic i made of the V1, V2 and V3:

Note there's also a V4 with even smaller and higher placed juiceholes, used for the toptank:

I often buy these (V3) RBAs:
$5.30 Authentic KangerTech SUBTANK Mini RBA Plus Coil Head - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
and once got a few of these clones, only for the caps with V2 sized juiceholes, these caps will last a lifetime:
$2.04 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The authentics have better insulators, better threading, stronger positive post. And no, i don't have a drill nor the skills to just drill out the authentics.

 

[Fad]

Just ignore me....I`m confused

 

[MacTechVpr]

I've never used the OCC's, can't help you with that.


The V2s haven't been produced for quite some time now. Maybe some places will still have them in stock. If you buy authentics now, you'll probably get V3s.

The V2s wick a lot better than the V1s (see @vincom's V1 mod on the previous page). Look at the different sized juiceholes in this pic i made of the V1, V2 and V3:

Note there's also a V4 with even smaller and higher placed juiceholes, used for the toptank:

I often buy these (V3) RBAs:
$5.30 Authentic KangerTech SUBTANK Mini RBA Plus Coil Head - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
and once got a few of these clones, only for the caps with V2 sized juiceholes, these caps will last a lifetime:
$2.04 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The authentics have better insulators, better threading, stronger positive post. And no, i don't have a drill nor the skills to just drill out the authentics.

Nice round up Leo…ehhh, but I'm nososure about your v4 thing. These smaller horiz feed (smaller air hole) immediately followed the un-numbered change to the orig RBA (cross-cut) slot. Really the v2's. They've been around for a while. I like these for the (closer to) inline wick positioning and wish they were 3mm. They came out after all the raggin about inadequate juice flow. If they had been 3 or 3.2 mm like the subsequent variations with lower holes, that would've been perfect for most styles of wicking (to deck or straight-thru).

Vin's published pictured slot drill-outs early on were great. A bit of a PIA but helped a lot. I drill out both slot and a matching arc or half-moon into the rba's tank wall where it meets the slot when threaded. Downside is that the threaded lip is thin and the tank's threading actually spreads with use so slot and wall cuts don't line up. So you have to do some guesstimation on a fresh one and hopefully you're lucky. When you are, it's swell.

Right on re the qual of the originals. I have a few you pictured (pair) with air holes apparently bored to the max. A Dremel's worth it to get there otherwise. You can bore these out sideways into ovals as well to help max out the airflow. Very useful if you wick chunky.

Thanks for the memories Leo.

Good luck.

 

[Leo Bak]

Nice round up Leo…ehhh, but I'm nososure about your v4 thing. These smaller horiz feed (smaller air hole) immediately followed the un-numbered change to the orig RBA (cross-cut) slot. Really the v2's. They've been around for a while. I like these for the (closer to) inline wick positioning and wish they were 3mm. They came out after all the raggin about inadequate juice flow. If they had been 3 or 3.2 mm like the subsequent variations with lower holes, that would've been perfect for most styles of wicking (to deck or straight-thru).

Vin's published pictured slot drill-outs early on were great. A bit of a PIA but helped a lot. I drill out both slot and a matching arc or half-moon into the rba's tank wall where it meets the slot when threaded. Downside is that the threaded lip is thin and the tank's threading actually spreads with use so slot and wall cuts don't line up. So you have to do some guesstimation on a fresh one and hopefully you're lucky. When you are, it's swell.

Right on re the qual of the originals. I have a few you pictured (pair) with air holes apparently bored to the max. A Dremel's worth it to get there otherwise. You can bore these out sideways into ovals as well to help max out the airflow. Very useful if you wick chunky.

Thanks for the memories Leo.

Good luck.

Thanks, nice to see the STMs are still being used, also by me BTW. I think you might be right about my messed up versioning. I suddenly recall a similar discussion about this, about a year ago. There might have been an improved version of the V1 RBA, one with larger bottom slots. If it ever existed there are at least 5 versions of the RBA.

My RBA says on the side "Kanger Tech Mini RBA Plus"

I understood that the original RBA has small slots in the base and the cap threads on to the base. The V2 has larger slots. The Plus has no slots in the base, holes on the side and a screw holds the cap to the base.

Maybe this applies to the full size Sub Tank and not the mini. I don't know.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Thanks, nice to see the STMs are still being used, also by me BTW. I think you might be right about my messed up versioning. I suddenly recall a similar discussion about this, about a year ago. There might have been an improved version of the V1 RBA, one with larger bottom slots. If it ever existed there are at least 5 versions of the RBA.

Yep L, they've made a lot of small changes to those things. Aftermarket too. Funny thing is the OCC works so much better with the right coil.

Twisted-lead Parallel, Tensioned Micro Coil

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 8, 2015

Tensioned Micro Coil, 3-point, twisted positive lead

Twisted-lead Parallel, Tensioned Micro Coil

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 1, 2015

Tensioned Micro Coil, 3-point, twisted positive lead

Wish the original RBA had continued with the fatter chimney that followed and the better pin airflow you showed in the last one. I posted pic's here what I did with the original before any flow adjustments. I knew then the fun had begun and there'd be a lot more sub tanks comin. And here we are. Thing is I don't vape anything I can't get dense along with the clouds or diffuse if I want to.

You take care Leo and…

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Pithy I didn't post here…

I have a box full of rebuildables, some of which are mentioned here. I keep coming back to the Kayfun Lite Plus V2 for some reason. Maybe it's just that I've learned to build it for the sweet spot in flavor and vapor.

Squape (R) was a great flavor producer. The Kayfun Mini V3 is also good for flavor, IMO.

I agree Dave, when you find the optimal balance of power, air and juice flow for the device it's golden. When that coincides with your perceptual ideal, it's ecstasy.

Good luck.

 

[Foggy Road]

Finally broke down and cut loose some big bucks to get a second STM-ish sorta thing. Wish me luck.

$6.66 Free Shipping SUBTANK Mini Styled Bell Cap Clearomizer (Mini, SS + PMMA, Translucent (RBA Coil)) at m.FastTech.com

 

[Foggy Road]

I understand that some juices can damage plastic tanks. With my barely flavored juices I'm not really concerned about that.

I recall reading about a difference between PMMA and PC. One may leech chemicals? Which is the preferred plastic for our tanks?

 

[puffon]

If you are looking for a good deal on white or blue: $6.90
kangertech subtank mini atomizer
Black bases for $1.50:
base for kangertech subtank mini atomizer

use code: 8yrhc for 20%off those prices