New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

HexKrak, if you go back to the quote you did, I quoted carlos49 from the DSE601 pipe rebuild thread on the silica rope. At the time he posted that, that option was available.
Another person got the rope, using the description apparently, PM'd me it tasted terrible. I told them to immediately stop using it. They had since it tasted so horrible, but I had no problem with them contacting me asking why.
The Silica has no taste since the heat doesn't effect it. As more get into vaping more will be rebuilding. The OP should reflect the material in a way that allows for the proper choice. If Silica is ordered and McMaster Carr subs fiberglass due to a description rather than heat range, with no questions, this was in need of correction. I can see where some may want "loosely knitted" as it may appear easier to unbraid for use.

I appreciate you contacting me on it. I've been in cart mod threads and seen ppl suggesting brass screen. Sure, I'll say something. SS is much safer, doesn't grow a green copper salt on it that may dissolve and be vaped. I'd much rather pay a few cents more for SS which is virtually inert and what is used in the atty tubes now. The connectors were originally all brass. They seem to be now coming out coated, especially in cartomizers. In attys the liquid the falls below the mesh, isolator disk to the connector fitting has little chance of ever making it back up. It will drain out the bottom air feed hole. In cartomizers, the filler is in constant contact with it and feedable to be vaped. Some will argue that brass screens were used forever in pipes. Ok, true enough. They also fed us treated tobacco being burnt and said "fine, use it it's great".

Thanks for bringing the error possibility to light. Many would/will get materials from the OP to get them on the way before ever reading far enough into the thread to see what can happen. Best to be nipped in the bud.

 

[LowThudd]

Why would you need to disagree with me? Did you not read this in the previous post?
"Much of the heat is conducted in the lead wire to it along with the liquid in the wick."

Simple? You seem to have no idea how much time has been put into looking at atomizers, their materials, by myself and other members here. You previously described choices as "more desirable than needed". I agree that I prefer the safest I can find for myself and anyone that uses them.

The heat generated is simple math, Ohms Law. The materials used become the main issue in making or repairing an atomizer.
If the proper materials are used I'm aware of no health problems known from vaping other than an allergy to PG, either existing or developed. Which has nothing to do with the material type used, its a constituent of the liquid used being PG or VG based.
Start using the wrong materials, applying heat, chemical reactions, possible metal leaching and your setting up a possible disaster.

Honestly, I'd suggest reading the atomizers thread. Yes, it will take a month or 2. I did. I read the findings of many good, bad and why if known.
Or, you can start your own thread maybe " The World of Atomizers According to LowThudd"" and post what ever you want there. If you feel things aren't the way you like them or are wrong, man up and take the liability. All I can suggest is you do the research first for others sake.

I didn't mean to insult you, just debate you. But you sure meant to insult me. I fail to see why I deseved to be insulted for questioning your methodology.

 

[Vaporer]

I didn't meant it as an insult at all. Just a simple suggestion.
You came here making unwarranted non-factual claims, I explained and yet you still continue. Did you carefully read my responses? No. Post #238

What I did was suggest that you read the information(at least some of it) provided to you by all the people that have done the research in the modding thread or start your own thread with your "facts/beliefs". You actually could do the research yourself I guess. But, you prefer to repeatedly challenge mine.
Your quote Post#238
"Also, if it did reach even half that high in temp, the air flowing out of the drip tip would be so hot it would burn your lips and lungs."

This thread is for a New Atomizer Coil Shape. An instruction to make it for users with little experience to be able to actually follow and succeed. A format that I use on all my tutorials.

 

[kinabaloo]

At any time the coil core dries (or nearly dries) the temp will zoom up from the BP of the liquid (under 200C / 400F) to over 1000C (1800F). With fine silicates deteriorating above 500C/900F, a better solution is ideally called for.

One idea would be to reverse Scubabatdan's pyrex (temp safe and no chance of fibre bit being inhaled) tube based atomiser. In this arrangement, there is no wicking except for the capillary that is the inside of the pyrex tube; the liquid passes on the inside of the tube with the coil on the outside. More specifically, the coil would be at one end of the tube (the tube being perhaps 2-3cm in length). If the capillary is sufficiently narrow, and/or a pressure valve or fine nozzle is fitted at one end this arrangement could work well. This is rather like the way bubble-jet printer heads work, which I have mentioned in the past.

Also, metal mesh (SS or a safe nickel alloy) or porous ceramic would be better than fibreglass or polymer filling. However, an arrangement without the need for filling is possible with the atomiser designed as above.

The tricky part would be to ensure only liquid can enter the pyrex tube (no air bubbles).

 

[Vaporer]

I can't vape with a dry atty. Did I miss something?

The figures you present on the silica have no reference. Do you know more than the manufacturers?
Silica 96% and lower do have a slightly lower temperature, but according to this manufacturer Braided Silica Round / Square Rope (Cord) - China Silica Glass Cords,Silica Braided Cords,Silica Glass Rope in Plastic Film & Bag
"Silica Rope:
From the high purity silicon fiber (up 98. 5% SiO2) made. 1600 F in temperature can And maintenance of the mechanical properties of soft, sustained operating temperatures up to 2500F, not in 3000 F Melting and evaporation."

McMaster Carr specs theirs at 2300* and option 3 & 4 are 99% & 98.8% respectively.
Higher than that particular manufacturer.

This manufacturer uses the 96% and still give it an hr rating (continuous)
?High temperature silica fiber rope?silica fiber rope , silica rope , silica braided rope , High silica fiber rope , high silica rope , high braided rope ,
"Silica cord is a special fiberglass ropes which contains more than 96% silicon dioxide, loss on Ignition <10%. With excellent heat resistance, it can work at the temperatures of 1000 centigrade degrees for and withstand at the temperatures of 1800 centigrade degrees for short-time .

The conditions needed for this don't seem to exist in a properly used PV.
I am a bit confused why your web page recommends a dry burn with the comment you made on deterioration. Cleaning the Atomiser

The Germans are using a SS flame treated wick(per Kelemvor), but lately my time has been spent here rather than acquiring material or testing. If SS works, I'd highly be behind it 100%. I have no reason to doubt the statement but I have the need to prove it to myself, not just state it before recommending it.

I am really surprised you never pursued your bubble jet atty theory.

 

[Posey]

While we're on the subject of wicks (which is this whole thread I guess), can someone explain how diameter and length (and I guess twists and/or density of fibers) affects the wicking action of the McMaster-Carr-type Silica wicks?

I'm trying to figure out things like: if a wick is 2 inches (5cm) long and has a quarter inch (.6 cm) submerged, will diameter affect the speed at which the liquid is wicked upwards? Is there a threshold where liquid won't wick? does the length matter?

 

[Vaporer]

Posey,
Thanks for your interest.
Normally wicking up isn't a "normal" configuration. Most regular atomizers are fed via an inverted cart to a porous metal bridge. The wick is normally tucked under the bridge to keep it wet. Mist is drawn up from the bottom and sides as a draw is taken through the saturated mesh. Most configurations rely gravity feed.

The question you are asking is shown in my thread here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...arger-volume-replaceable-coil-cartomizer.html

This was a proof of concept project. It works and works well. Both long tails drop to the bottom of a filler soaked reservoir.
Wicking depends on capillary action as the wick isn't really absorbent. Knowing this many factors come into play. Viscosity of the liquid, height for the action to work, how long is the recharge time, how much is used per draw?.....

As you can see it can be a lot of variables. The wick inside the coil needs open space too. To tight and it will wick to one side, not thru the coil exposing a lot of liquid to be vaporized. In the link I provided it is wicking abt 1 1/4" total height. Will it wick all the way to the bottom? Honestly I cant say. It holds way more than a standard cartomizer and as its level drops physics tell you the rise will get more difficult.

I basically made that design to show a cartomizer style atomizer could be made with an easily replaceable coil while still retaining the original diameter. That feeding method was simple to try and does work, at least for me. Others may have vaping habits, thicker liquids, using HV and it may not work for them without some changes. Most likely thinning their liquid or increasing the wicks tail diameter.

Dan has a Pill Fob Mod which is similar, but is totally inverted with the reservoir on top being wick fed down. Working in a standard diameter tube that design seemed to have more difficulties than ease of use. Yet, it works fine with his larger working diameter.

Reading through the atomizer modders section will show you many designs. Presently I'm not aware of any that wick up other than the one I posted. Overall, most don't rely on wicking as much as they do the mesh spraying mist at the coil.
Cartomizers are a different breed of their own.

Hope that clarifies some things.

 

[vapolator]

Just to add ressources : Modded Drunker Smoktech, Double 3mm Ekowool, simple Kanthal D 0.2 (around 2.5ohms). It's not my best and cleanest "dremelization", more a try of the last chance because the atty don't worked well as it.

The throat hit/flavor/vapor ratio was incredible. The atomizer itself stay a pain in the 4ss, even modded, i don't use it anymore but damn it, it vaped as hell when it was "brand new".

Since this test, the aerodynamics parameters is for me the "One Ring to rule them all" and what i'm modding the more now, even on high end attys (sic).