Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod

[Big Screen D]

I've had this project on the back burner for some time now. Really haven't had the free time to work out the kinks.

Main problem is the Pyrex capillary tube while great at transferring heat, is prone to cracking when you least expect it. The FQ tubes that I have, have no problem with cracking, but are not nearly as efficient getting to temp as the much thinner Pyrex tubing. I've had some that worked without fail for days on end, and others fail in minutes. Can get really frustrating to make the perfect coil, tube and mesh assembly, and have it crack.

Have to say, I'm getting such an awesome vape out of the hemp wicked EVOD's and Pro tanks, that I've been using them exclusively in place of my Genesis atty's of late.



Glad to see

 

[Nocturin]

The silicone does not slide out at all - the silicone seems to take well to the negative NR wire that is there. However, you are correct in that it does not bond to the glass and that is where I believe the juice is sucked in; on the glass wall. I would never put the furnace cement on the bottom, only the top. Once dried and torched, there does not seem to be any fumes or crumbling. I thought about using silver solder to seal the bottom, but figured that it would not bond well to the glass either. And since I only have that one small piece of FQ left, I want to make sure that it will be reusable - I'm not too sure that once the silver solder is in there that I would be able to successfully remove it without breaking the tube. Have not scuffed up the tube at all since the FQ is very brittle and does not do well with any kind of side forces.

The solder would be easy to get back out, and it would be possible to see if there was any adheshion to the tube. I'm planning on ordering some FQ tubing to test.

IIRC, after the solder is seated, all you would need is some pliers to hold the FQ tubing and heat it up from either firing the outside of the tube or holding the soldering iron to and melt it out. If the top is not a complete seal, there should be little vacuum to keep it from dropping down onto the prepared surface, in theory anyways.

So the issue with sealing the top completely has been the weak sidewall strengths, but I don't think I've seen a completely sealed one to see if the FQ can withstand the heat/cool air cycles. I wonder what happened to the large gauge needle tests. Were their problems making the needles non-conductive?

How much heat is needed to melt FQ?

I've had this project on the back burner for some time now. Really haven't had the free time to work out the kinks.

Main problem is the Pyrex capillary tube while great at transferring heat, is prone to cracking when you least expect it. The FQ tubes that I have, have no problem with cracking, but are not nearly as efficient getting to temp as the much thinner Pyrex tubing. I've had some that worked without fail for days on end, and others fail in minutes. Can get really frustrating to make the perfect coil, tube and mesh assembly, and have it crack.

Have to say, I'm getting such an awesome vape out of the hemp wicked EVOD's and Pro Tanks, that I've been using them exclusively in place of my Genesis atty's of late.



Glad to see

I'm excited to try a protank, I've had decent milage with the vivi and mini vivi, looking to try my first RBA(and protank) and all these modifications are tantalizing.

 

[Koman]

Try it out and let us know how it works!

 

[Nocturin]

Try it out and let us know how it works!

I plan on it! Although it may take awhile - I'm starting mostly from scratch tool-wise. Just ordered my first RBA (AGA-T2) and wires (flat and normal kanthal, NiCr 28g-34g.

 

[benjabin]

Hi just curious. The wire attached to the center post out of the tube doesn't glow bright red? How come? On a normal wick and wire a setup the wire will glow. Or did I not read properly and that's the non resistant wire.

 

[dsy5]

Hi just curious. The wire attached to the center post out of the tube doesn't glow bright red? How come? On a normal wick and wire a setup the wire will glow. Or did I not read properly and that's the non resistant wire.

It is NR wire top and bottom...

 

[Nocturin]

It is NR wire top and bottom...

I have some Nickel NR wire, now to head to micheals to get some of those clamps and figure out where I can buy FQ and Pyrex tubers from.

Whoot!

I just need to bore out my wick hole.

-----

What should I bore too with the Aga-T2?

 

[zarach]

This thread is intriguing to me, kudos for working towards vaping innovations. Now a question ...Have you considered making a mold and fully melting the glass to make a coil totally encapsulated? Would probably have to use fused quartz for this and as such, would have to use an oxygen torch for the melting.

 

[Big Screen D]

This thread is intriguing to me, kudos for working towards vaping innovations. Now a question ...Have you considered making a mold and fully melting the glass to make a coil totally encapsulated? Would probably have to use fused quartz for this and as such, would have to use an oxygen torch for the melting.

Hmm, that might work. Would depend on the melt point of the coil though. And the Quartz tube would have to have thin walls.. In the range of .3 to .5mm for good heat transfer.

 

[MikeWhy]

Hey Guys. I'm joining this late... I got to page 20 or so, the day after Xmas. Wondering if there was any resolution on the aluminum tube idea. Or if aluminum foil had been tried. Seems to me glass is a pretty good thermal insulator. Or at least a better insulator than aluminum or copper and it's alloys.

Also wondering how you were getting on with the tube end seals. I'm not sure if this is possible with Pyrex, but as a child tinkering with a chemistry set, we used to draw out glass tubes by heating the middle to softening point and then drawing apart, leaving a long lance sealing the tube halves. Might be workable. Might not.

 

[MikeWhy]

If a metal, conductive tube is at all workable, a 13 ga. needle will take a few layers of mesh wrap and still fit through a 3.5mm quick hole. The bottom can be sealed around the wire I think by heating and drawing out a glass, not Pyrex, capillary tube. Maybe pre-dimple the needle so there's something for the glass to grab against.

1.2mm I.D., 1.6mm O.D.: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DB93E4/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1

 

[MikeWhy]

But then, just rolling neatly a few wraps of aluminum foil would be easier, faster, and better if we can rely on the oxide layer for insulation inside a conductive tube.