Noalox and why we use it on mechanical mods

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Lisaf01

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I often get asked questions about Noalox and why it's so beneficial to use it on our mechanical mods.
Virtually every well-known mechanical mod manufacturer recommends it and many even ship their mods with Noalox pre-applied to various parts of the unit.

Here's why:

In a mechanical mod, the current is having to "jump" from one part of the mod to another.

Oftentimes, no matter how carefully you clean your equipment, some invisible oxidation or particles can remain on the contact points that interfere with the full current flow, or indeed, on the battery contact points themselves.

Noalox is a substance that contains zinc particles which conduct electricity. Using it on the contact points of your mod, bridges any miniscule gaps that may be caused by oxidation or dirt, or just a battery that's not as flat as it could be on its contact areas.

Additionally, the current must flow up the main tube, so any threaded joins that you have in the unit, can benefit from Noalox, both to keep the threads working nicely, and to ensure contact is maintained all throughout the threads.

I have seen some people talking about using petroleum-based products, however, this is a bad idea, and here's why:

Petroleum based products are non-conductive, so whilst they may make your threads operate all nice and smoothly, they may actually impede current flow. However, if you have threaded parts on your mod that frequently come into contact with juice, (such as within a juice feeding tank), petroleum jelly is the better product to use here to keep threads flowing freely, but only in an area where current is not expected to flow.

Hope that helps explain the situation.
 

vereybowring

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Petroleum jelly if applied very sparingly and cleaned off and reapplied weekly works extremely well (warm the jelly in your fingers and use a cotton bud/q-tip to apply and the other end of thebud to wipe off excess).
While indeed it is not conductive if used on a clean connection it stops tracking and corrosion allowing the metal parts to stay in contact (screw parts together firmly).
Also it breaks down with excessive heat so shouldn't be used on 6V kits, but should be fine on 3.7V gear.
My father was a mechanical and electrical engineer and swore by it - he even used to sometimes put very fine zinc dust into the jelly to increase conductivity.
It repels water far better than most things so I have used it for a variety of electrical components to prevent corrosion with no issued at all.
Noalox is just a more modern compound but was created to be an anti-oxidant for aluminium parts.
 
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Lisaf01

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That is a good method, although if you're working with an aluminium mod, the invisible oxidation builds up almost immediately and is not conductive, so noalox is very useful here. However, with a stainless mod, not quite so much of a problem.

The current under load can clearly be seen to improve the minute noalox is applied to the contacts in most mods......
 

SammyT

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So I know I should use the noalox on the firing pin of my reo, although I am wondering if it also be beneficial on the negative spring. I will probably not put it on the threads of my device simply because it is a bottom feeder without a spoke, and I am pretty sure juice flows in and around the threads, then up in to the catch cup. I dont want to smoke the stuff!
 

jacob1174

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Here is what Ideal says about Noalox:
Anti-oxidant and anti-seizing compound
Reduces galling and seizing on aluminum conduit joints
Suspended zinc particles penetrate and cut aluminum oxide
Carrier material excludes air to prevent further oxidation
Improves service life of aluminum electrical applications


Pematex states this for their dielectric grease:
Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion
Prevents voltage leaks around any electrical connection
Extends the life of bulb sockets
Required for modern high energy ignition systems


Permatex states this for their anti-seize lubricant:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant, this lubricant is ideal for marine use
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly


Which is better? (in your opinion) and why? Just curious because they all seem to work at stopping corrosion and lubricating parts. I know certain lubricants work good for their specific design. For instance, I know that using a small amount of silicone grease to rubber o-rings stops the o-rings from rotting. But I never used petroleum jelly because the oils will break down o-rings.
 

Lisaf01

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It's really not necessary to worry too much about the micro-detail on these things. If you have any one of those on-hand, use it if you need to. If you need to go out and buy something, buy either the noalox or I'd say the anti-seize lubricant would be better than the dialectric grease.
The issue in the UK is that you cannot pick these things up easily and we have to import Noalox to get it in quantity, it's not in shops here.
 

gofastman

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Apologies for bumping an old thread here, but can anyone tell me if theres a reason not to use graphite?

It seems to be to be the better option as it's dry and also conductive
Graphite is generally considered a no-no on aluminum parts, at least in the aerospace industry. I'm not sure exactly why, I think they react with each other and can actually cause corrosion.
 
Would never-seez be a good application to use? The only reason I ask is because I have it available at my work and was curious. It contains aluminum powder,copper powder, petroleum grease, synthetic graphite, and zinc oxide.

Try not to use Never Seize. Not conductive. I was an auto mechanic for 12 years. We got in to a discussion (almost an argument) with two techs smearing the stuff on battery terminals to prevent corrosion. Our senior tech ultimately took a DVOM and set it for resisitance and plunged leads into his bottle of never seize. No continuity. Great for lubrication, not conductivity which you need for Mods. We are dealing with increasing "connection" between metal parts not trying to prevent corrosion (that we can see). Yes the threads get black (Oxidation) which we notice and clean off. I work for an electrician and oxidation turns copper wire brownish, aluminum grayish, and so on. Clean, Bright, and Shiny is best. I would stay with compounds stating to increase conductivity, the carrier will always keep out air (creating Oxidation). Noalox. Di Electric grease. Petroleum jelly is probably a no no too. That's my 2 cents worth.
 

vapn

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This must be the longest running thread we have on any forums.... but yes good advice dude...

I've recently got a new mod, the Stingray X and the copper button was a little sticky so just added a TINY bit of graphite and it's really made it a nice action now. It's a conductive material and doesn't get sticky like some other things.
 
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