I had to send the vv woodvil in for refurbishing and Rob is going to evaluate it and advise on best way to restore it. I may not even have a choice between oiled vs lacquered (it's rosewood so can not be coated with poly) due to the kinds of woods it has, but I wanted to get some opinions from those who have both finishes on woodvils. I am thinking I would like the oiled finish but not sure.
Oil vs Poly/Lacquer finish on Woodvils
- Thread starter Ratman
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It doesn't really matter, he's going to charge you five-million dollars for either finish... plus shipping.
On the bright side he'll let you make monthly payments, at 27% interest.
See how much you've saved by quitting analogs.
Jack
On the bright side he'll let you make monthly payments, at 27% interest.
See how much you've saved by quitting analogs.
Jack
Naaah, I cut a deal. I sent my firstborn as payment. I want my 'moneys' worth so researching it 
I have an oiled finish on my Jatoba and I love it much better than the poly finish. I had a poly finish on my redwood burl and when I sent it back for a new spring I had Robert re-do do the finish to an oiled finish.
I have decided that I am an oiled finish gal.
I have decided that I am an oiled finish gal.
I have a small wood mod that has an oil finished, it's wenge I believe and I like the look of it but it actually feels oily. Not good. I think it is the type of wood though or the particular oil used. I hope so anyway as I really like the feel of smooth wood over the slippery yet sometimes tacky feel of lacquer.
I have Woodvils with both finishes. I like both. On the oiled ones I use a hard paste furniture wax, with UV protection, after I do a cleaning/waxing/buffing with Howard's Sun and Feed UV which is liquid and doesn't give as hard a finish. I, also, put the hard wax on the Poly coated to give just a little extra protection from fine finish scratches (or to fill in micro scratches - ever noticed a poly coated wood floor that has had lots of sandy foot traffic?) and to help protect color from changing from UV exposure. I too think the oiled looks better on some woods even some that can take poly. I've purchased a couple of re-homed, off of classies, that had old finish that was worn off, in places, from use but otherwise in great condition. Instead of having them refinished I've very lightly sanded the areas feathering the edges and applied hard past wax to even out the finish. (The Howard's hard paste wax is so hard it's hard to get wax out of fine crevices and grooves in the wood. Using colored waxes keeps the grooves, where wax collects, from being the natural wax color that is unsightly to me especially on the dark wood.) One original Woody door finish was in rough shape. I sanded all that off, applied Howard's, and then used the hard paste wax in matching color. Looks pretty good and only took a few minutes.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
I, also, well oil inside wood, back and edges of doors, with Howard's. Many of the woods will soak up a lot of the oil/wax. As most of my REOs like to "swim", the oil helps to protect the wood. Most of my Woodvils go everywhere and are not just my "home" REOs. (Actually away from home is a lot safer most of the time. But a little safer now that Bubs don't steal them any more. They all still love to "swim.") (I do like to keep the woods that change color from UV out of our seering, extreme UV sun most of the time.)(Their storage cabinet doesn't get much light either.)
Hugs, Feisty Alice
I, also, well oil inside wood, back and edges of doors, with Howard's. Many of the woods will soak up a lot of the oil/wax. As most of my REOs like to "swim", the oil helps to protect the wood. Most of my Woodvils go everywhere and are not just my "home" REOs. (Actually away from home is a lot safer most of the time. But a little safer now that Bubs don't steal them any more. They all still love to "swim.") (I do like to keep the woods that change color from UV out of our seering, extreme UV sun most of the time.)(Their storage cabinet doesn't get much light either.)
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None of my Woodys or Woodvils feel tacky except for that one original Woody's door. The finish was almost gummy. All of my original Woodys have oil finish (Roberts Tung oil).
Personally, I prefer the oil finish. Laquer is beautiful, but I lay my REOs down on their backs and it scratches the finish. When an oiled gets scratched a light buff with steel wool and a good soak in Howards brings it right back to pristine condition.
I vote straight tung oil the feel in your hand is a winner all day long . I can assure you Rob it wont feel tacky .Della is right any scratches can quickly be fixed .
That sounds great to me Rob. I wasn't sure if the Rosewood and Quilted Maple were compatible with an oil finish but I was hoping it would be.
The quilted maple doors, with tung finish, really pop-out and have more "depth" to pattern with a coat of hard paste wax!!! I love hard past wax and hand buffing on unfinished wood antiques that have had to be stripped because of damaged finish or paint. Reasonably tough. Over the years I've used colored tung oil on bare wood inside doors (Five bare wood French doors waiting for tung oil upstairs). Fast, easy, low mess, and very durable. Doors can be easily finished while installed/in place. (Paste waxes that have little solvent require a lot more "elbow grease" removing excess wax (carnauba) and buffing. The Howard's is one of the harder waxes. Stay away from toluene solvents. Howards doesn't have that.)
Tung oil 100% ..... polyurethane feels unnatural and forms a seal around the wood so your not really touching wood at all.
It could be plastic inside that poly and it would still feel the same.
So I vote ........
TUNG OIL!
It could be plastic inside that poly and it would still feel the same.
So I vote ........
TUNG OIL!
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