ReadyXWick - Round 2

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MacTechVpr

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Me tomorrow mebe. Whatcha thinkin' for a wind spec neb? When the wick was called 3.5, I figured it for it's factory o.d. and 3.175mm, an eighth, sounded like the reasonable squeeze. Dunno now. Still need to hunt down what the actual pre-kiln specs for this braid. Know I had 'em somewhere in my notes. Gotta set some time to search where I dropped 'em here on ecf. I'd like to see the i.d. as this wick might be a good candidate for stuffing. G'luck neb. :)
 

73neb

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Me tomorrow mebe. Whatcha thinkin' for a wind spec neb? When the wick was called 3.5, I figured it for it's factory o.d. and 3.175mm, an eighth, sounded like the reasonable squeeze. Dunno now. Still need to hunt down what the actual pre-kiln specs for this braid. Know I had 'em somewhere in my notes. Gotta set some time to search where I dropped 'em here on ecf. I'd like to see the i.d. as this wick might be a good candidate for stuffing. G'luck neb. :)

I am planning to start with 1/8" I.D. and make changes as necessary.

What do you mean by "stuffing"?
 
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MacTechVpr

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I am planning to start with 1/8" I.D. and make changes as necessary.

What do you mean by "stuffing"?

It may be possible to thread the wick internally with something very permeable and diffusive to take advantage of the substantial heat the ceramic absorbs and better feed this fat wick, for example. Something like loose cotton weave threading or dare I say it…rayon. Maybe even XC-132. Adjust the flow, absorption, vaporization rate for specific juices that way. Improve the rigidity of the wick if it's too flaccid to ensure better or consistent contact. Either curtail the flow (deflection, compression) for more diffusion or looser for more density (saturation, flavor). :D G'luck!
 
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73neb

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So I tried 1/8", and it was too tight to thread the 4mm RxW without unraveling some of the braid. I now have it threaded into a 4mm I'd coil, and it's working well, but I think it's a little too loose. I need to find either some 5/32" or 3.75mm material to make mandrels for the gizmo. I have to go to Guatemala later this week, so it might be a while before I can try again with the other sizes. First impression though is good. Looking forward to other's results.
 

TX Foilhead

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I'm jumping ahead here a bit, I'm about the middle of the first thread. Learned a whole lot already and so far this week I've managed to rewick a Kanger OCC coil with some 3mm and it lasted a week. Easily 2x longer than I've ever gotten from one of those coils.

During that week I got 2 REO's and both have Nuppin V2's on top. So now I'm off on another project, so far I've been successful with a single coil build in one running the 3mm and a dual coil in the other with the other with 2mm wick. I love the 3mm which I've wicked like a horseshoe where both ends are angle cut and touch the deck, it takes up about 3/4 of the space inside and holds lots of juice. The 2mm with the dual coils works better with my ADV, but goes dry on the 2nd pull.

Anybody got a simple Nuppin build for dual coils using the 3mm wick or a way to wick the 2mm duals that holds lots of juice? I'm set up with even wire sizes from 26 to 32, a coil gizmo with 3/32 and 1/16 rods. I'm no good with twisting wires together or making tight coils yet.
 
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built4feel

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I'm jumping ahead here a bit, I'm about the middle of the first thread. Learned a whole lot already and so far this week I've managed to rewick a Kanger OCC coil with some 3mm and it lasted a week. Easily 2x longer than I've ever gotten from one of those coils.

During that week I got 2 REO's and both have Nuppin V2's on top. So now I'm off on another project, so far I've been successful with a single coil build in one running the 3mm and a dual coil in the other with the other with 2mm wick. I love the 3mm which I've wicked like a horseshoe where both ends are angle cut and touch the deck, it takes up about 3/4 of the space inside and holds lots of juice. The 2mm with the dual coils works better with my ADV, but goes dry on the 2nd pull.

Anybody got a simple Nuppin build for dual coils using the 3mm wick or a way to wick the 2mm duals that holds lots of juice? I'm set up with even wire sizes from 26 to 32, a coil gizmo with 3/32 and 1/16 rods. I'm no good with twisting wires together or making tight coils yet.
Try the 3/32" or 2.5mm ID with 26g (or whichever gauge you want- depends on what type of heat you want, Im digging 24g at the moment) with the 3mm rxw. Holds a lot more juice than the 2mm rxw I was running inside 1/16" dual coils on the nuppin.

I started using the coil master, which has a 2.5mm rod, but if you want I can send you two 2.5mm rods. You could use them in a pin vise of adequate size. Shoot me a pm with your address. (same goes for any lurkers)

Look back one page:

24awg kanthal, 8 turns, .3 ohms. Third setup that I've put this build in.
View attachment 460450
 
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TX Foilhead

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Thanks for the offer, I've got a coil master clone but it didn't mention it because I haven't been successful with making a nice looking coil on it.

How are you running the wicks? My first try with the 3mm I ran from the deck to just pass the coil and it wouldn't stay wet for more than one pull per squonk like the 2mm. The big loop fixed that, but there's no room to do that with duals. I used the same idea with 2mm and dual coils so the tails sit at each end of the coil on the opposite side, works but they don't seem to have the capacity to hold enough or I'm doing something wrong with them (highly possible).
 
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built4feel

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Thanks for the offer, I've got a coil master clone but it didn't mention it because I haven't been successful with making a nice looking coil on it.

How are you running the wicks? My first try with the 3mm I ran from the deck to just pass the coil and it wouldn't stay wet for more than one pull per squonk like the 2mm. The big loop fixed that, but there's no room to do that with duals. I used the same idea with 2mm and dual coils so the tails sit at each end of the coil on the opposite side, works but they don't seem to have the capacity to hold enough or I'm doing something wrong with them (highly possible).
uploadfromtaptalk1432969141005-jpg.460450


It sounds like your're doing the above? Which btw, I found an easy way of doing without unraveling the wick too much. As you thread it through the coil, once part of the wick is through, push it into position while simultaneously threading it the rest of the way through. That way, you won't have to distort the wick ends when you're positioning it on the deck. Worked well for me at least.
Also, you will find the wick will hold a lot more juice after the first dry burn. I just posted in your other thread about this. Give it some time to break in, and it will work better than before.
 
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CMD-Ky

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That's what I tried the first time with the single coil that didn't work, must have messed something up along the way. There are lots of little details I'm learning going through the thread. I'll try it again.

Threading the RXW is not an easy thing to learn. I messed up a lot of 3mm before I got it right, second nature now - I have even taken it and used in a new coil. The stuff is worth the effort and the waste when learning. Thumbs up to it working better after a dry burn.
 

muzichead

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I finally had a chance to get some of the 4mm into use. I had to order a universal coil master jig as the original coil master only went up to a 3mm rod. The universal had a 3.5mm rod in it. Coiled up a dual 5/6 wrap 26g that came out to .4Ω in my Bonsai.

First impression is that it was a snug fit, very much the same as the 3mm in a 2.5mm coil. It seems to hold a ton of juice in the wicks. I am getting on average of 6-8 hits between squonks. The problem with that is the atty gets pretty warm by the 4th or 5th hit... I even have the AFC wide open on it. I think the amount of wick that's in it is taking away from the airflow overall, not to mention a 3.5mm coil is massive!!!

I will have to give this stuff a try in my Dark Horse Mini next. It has a little bit larger chamber and more airflow, so it might not be as warm in it. I don't think this would work in either the Derringer or the Nuppin' as the 3.5mm coils would just be too big for them. That's ok since I have about 3-4 feet of the 3mm for those. I would guess it would be the same for an RM2 or similar small diameter atty. I have a feeling this stuff would really shine in a vertical coil setup.
 

MacTechVpr

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I finally had a chance to get some of the 4mm into use. I had to order a universal coil master jig as the original coil master only went up to a 3mm rod. The universal had a 3.5mm rod in it. Coiled up a dual 5/6 wrap 26g that came out to .4Ω in my Bonsai.

First impression is that it was a snug fit, very much the same as the 3mm in a 2.5mm coil. It seems to hold a ton of juice in the wicks. I am getting on average of 6-8 hits between squonks. The problem with that is the atty gets pretty warm by the 4th or 5th hit... I even have the AFC wide open on it. I think the amount of wick that's in it is taking away from the airflow overall, not to mention a 3.5mm coil is massive!!!

I will have to give this stuff a try in my Dark Horse Mini next. It has a little bit larger chamber and more airflow, so it might not be as warm in it. I don't think this would work in either the Derringer or the Nuppin' as the 3.5mm coils would just be too big for them. That's ok since I have about 3-4 feet of the 3mm for those. I would guess it would be the same for an RM2 or similar small diameter atty. I have a feeling this stuff would really shine in a vertical coil setup.

I kept thinkin' that with every word you typed, lol…when's he gonna say that? Yeah, pretty much what I envisioned. Exception being the Subtank (and others with sufficient AF); however, that will take some modifications. The weave is quite stiffer than I anticipated. Was hoping it might compress into 3.2-3.4mm but doesn't seem practical. I'm usin' 25AWG with this wick. The 26g seems a bit shy to deflect it. Using 1/8" on a bunch of stuff since the Subtank so 3.5mm's not much of a stretch.

Good luck muzic'n thx for the comeback.

:)

p.s. @muzichead, as a footnote, only chance you have of keepin' that big a mass cool and the flavor that implies is to wind t.m.c. Ran into that, as did many, with the very diffuse output of the fat thick packed cargo train for a wick on the Kanger Subtank. Although technically possible, don't have any experience with anything over 3.175mm. It becomes increasingly harder to hold the concentricity over 3mm but we will give this a try at some point.
 
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rudy4653

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So Mac, question for you.
As you know I have been a proponent of RxW for some time now. My go to set up has been a single coil, 8 wrap around 16 gauge luer, 29 gauge twisted coil with 2mm RxW, coming out to just around 1 ohm. After reading about the 3mm RxW being able to soak up more juice I am considering trying it. My question is that with the thicker wick thus requiring larger coil diameter thus less wraps to maintain current resistance around 1 ohm, how do you think it would effect overall performance? I remember you saying more wraps = more coil contact = better performing. So I'm debating the benefit of the thicker wick other than being able to soak up more juice.
 

MacTechVpr

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So Mac, question for you.
As you know I have been a proponent of RxW for some time now. My go to set up has been a single coil, 8 wrap around 16 gauge luer, 29 gauge twisted coil with 2mm RxW, coming out to just around 1 ohm. After reading about the 3mm RxW being able to soak up more juice I am considering trying it. My question is that with the thicker wick thus requiring larger coil diameter thus less wraps to maintain current resistance around 1 ohm, how do you think it would effect overall performance? I remember you saying more wraps = more coil contact = better performing. So I'm debating the benefit of the thicker wick other than being able to soak up more juice.

Put it this way, I've done a lot of variations for NexT. Twisted, par, fat/thin and more recently twisted lead center post (3-post) and par twisted lead. I've yet to to overwhelm the 3mm. Why the 4mm's a bit scary lol (I do have the semblance of a juice budget).

You def want to keep the wire as flat as possible on this wick 'cause being so firm it does respond well both to the consistent contact and pressure (deflection). Just like a garden hose. But I think you would benefit for flow and sat on a BF to back off from the compression a tad. I find 3mm responds best at about 2.5mm across a wide power range for both mech's and VW. Lately I'm runnin 24AWG between .3-.4Ω and it's a cool vape with a well oxidized t.m.c. duals. That's 8-turns at about 4mm coil length. Gets really great volume production without an appreciable loss of flavor to diffusion (to my sensitive detection). For ref. on a mech that gets me 60W on a fresh batt on the 4mm. BTW, I still vape Protanks too believe it or not but only with the 2mm or not enough flavor.

Looking at Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building real quick for some scale. You'll want to put as much wire on the real estate as poss. And I'm thinkin' you might have the room for a 3mm. You'll need to up your Ø to 2.38mm (3/32) that's going to be close to the deflection you're getting now. Perhaps a tad less compression, still 8-wraps and you'll be droppin' down to 27 AWG for the 1Ω, 16W avg. That's roughly what I vape my sub tanks at (17.5W) with the twisted lead parallels for huge clouds with KGD! Here's what the numbers look like (assuming a t.m.c.)…

29AWG 8/7, 1.651mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.319Ω
27AWG 8/7, 2.38mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.124Ω

If ya roll a tight t.m.c. carefully (slowly) oxidized with no wire temp variations (cool dark spots) you'll be puttin' down twice the heat (roughly double the contact area) at wattage. It should fire every bit as fast if it's a t.m.c. You won't experience the same heat up time as an open wind despite the wire change. I have peeps remarkin' to me all the time — why do all my builds fire so fast? Don't ask me to explain it. Just gonna get myself in trouble.

Best suggestion is watch the wire when you wind and pulse. I toss more than I keep. Just don't accept any inconsistencies in tension or turn-to-turn fit up. I've gotta live with the dang thing for at least a couple'a weeks, I'm sure not gonna put up with less than a good vape. Like I keep sayin' it takes a few sec's to spin out another on a pin vise. And usually when I wind, I turn out a few. No matter I've got a single or a pair in reserve.

Recently I noted some of the electron microscope shots of Kanthal on @Alien Traveler Coil under electron microscope | E-Cigarette Forum thread that the bare wire had a great deal of debris off the spool.

newcoil-jpg.464979


I've seen a lot of photography of Kanthal but not in a typical user state. This was revealing. It could very well be that a lot of the small gaps I've written so much about may be more attributable to this roughage at the surface rather than runout. The latter happens, others have detected it, observed it under magnification and written me about it. It's an important source of gaps and so difficult or incomplete oxidation. But I'm rethinking pre-cleaning the wire. Perhaps with an alcohol wipe. Darn stuff could be skin! LOL And hands too with the dry wash disinfectants everybody's using. That should pretty much square things up nicely for the wind.

Good luck Rudy and let us know how you make out. Or if you want to consider other variations, I'd love to help.

:)
 
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rudy4653

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Thanks for the very useful info as always Mac!
So the next time I experiment it looks like from what you explained that I will try 27 gauge with 3mm to compare to what I'm running now 29 gauge with 2mm. Same # wraps on 3/32 mandrel. Just need to decide whether I give in to my tinkering urge or take the if it ain't broke don't fix it route. If I buy a foot of the 3mm I'm committed!
It may be awhile until my next build but something to keep in mind.:thumbs:
 
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MacTechVpr

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Parallel coils will get you to the same place if you don't want to do duals.

Yeah, I agree and preferred for NexT but it's a whole 'nother level of hard with open winds (as I noted to music above). And spaced winds, as many hundreds of untainted new vapers learned and impartially validated all over ECF regarding the Protank, produce very diffuse, airy output slightly muted of flavor. Even by comparison of those jumping from the vertical Aspires with more diffuse production than conventional parallels. If you want to tame the beast you need strain. And twisted leads lock in that geometry and resistance. Just hope more would suspend disbelief long enough to build a simple tensioned wind consistently and put two of 'em together. Then they'd see what I'm talkin' about.

And I'm not sayin' do my wind here. Just suggesting strain is the tool that helps us find our level…for power, vapor production…diffusion or density.

Good luck all.

:)

 
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MacTechVpr

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Yep, just like the slick bro…a better contact patch…more rubber meets the road.

You can match the contact surface, or at least come close, by goin' fat wire in the same coil length. But you expose a much greater wire surface to the air.

:D G'luck
 
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