REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk

[SteamStack]

I just bought 6 Sony vtc5a 3600mah batts at Sony US18650 VTC5A 2600mAh

And a couple spools of 30 gauge wire (damn Clapton coils eat wire!!) And some red battery wrap. Im all set for some new sub ohm coil fun.

 

[Joules_Verne]

...and me. I've never bought a thing from FT.

I appreciated your position (on clones too) from a while back but FT had me at 'free shipping'.
If I order here in France items are expensive, order from UK and shipping doubles the cost and as for ordering from USA, well, except for REOsMods and Nicoticket when I could justify 48USD and 32USD respectively, the shipping kills it for me. I have limited funds for vaping and shipping eats up too much of them. I did make an exception for my OG O16 from Germany though .

 

[JC Okie]

I appreciated your position (on clones too) from a while back but FT had me at 'free shipping'.
If I order here in France items are expensive, order from UK and shipping doubles the cost and as for ordering from USA, well, except for REOsMods and Nicoticket when I could justify 48USD and 32USD respectively, the shipping kills it for me. I have limited funds for vaping and shipping eats up too much of them. I did make an exception for my OG O16 from Germany though .

Sometimes I forget how easy we have it over here concerning our vape products. We have our problems, but not like what some of you guys have to deal with. I'll admit I order from Fastech from time to time, but I never order anything I couldn't do without...and I don't spend any more money than I'm willing to sacrifice if necessary.

 

[Kenna]

...and me. I've never bought a thing from FT.

I've bought a few things. I'm really careful to check reviews & discussions on items before I buy. No coils & no batteries other than those in vv/vw authentic mods like isticks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

 

[rjeatkrconley]

I'd like to quickly chime in on the flat top vs button top. So before the modfather father came out with the new contacts we all love and admire, when us crazy throat burners were looking for ways to "push the envelope" of our Reo's with fuses and home made firing pins. I found that at .3ohms, I was melting button bottoms. So I took the buttons out and built a shield, if you will, out of JB weld on the bottom of the button. Not only did it solve the issue of melting buttons, it also shortend the button throw with flat top batteries. I upgraded to the new contacts as soon as they were available, but didn't use the new buttons, as they sometimes will melt at .26 ohms. The contact lasted for over a year before I finally broke it. Button mashing hoople that I am.
Also, my og P67 has been running at .16ohm for almost 4weeks. The spring sagged finally, might need to hot rod that.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[Spydro]

www.rtdvapor.com sells all kinds of batteries and since the guy running it is a REO user, he has what we need. Not sure how his prices compare, but I can totally vouch for the quality and authenticity.

^^^ +1 ^^^

I have a hellofalotof batteries, and will only buy authentic batteries. Clones, rewraps, mnd mislabeled, over rated, etc are not acceptable considering the possible nature of the beast when used for vaping, especially in a mech mod. And I would never buy batteries from an unknown/unproven source. If in doubt, I always confirm before ordering from them. IOW, with batteries any new to me company has to be confirmed. I do a simple on-line search looking for reviews about the company. If still in doubt I contact them direct. Any company that will not confirm in a 110% believable/provable and polite manner does not get my business. IOW song and dance numbers from former used car salesman are an immediate fail.

All of my many 18650, 18490, 18350 & 14500 AW button top batts came from Randy at RTD Vapor. I have also always received only authentic batteries (flat top/high drain) from Illumination Supply LLC (San Jose, CA), LLION (Phoenixville, PA) and IMR Batteries (Houston, TX).

I trust them so far, but it's your well being that can be at stake so do your own research.

 

[Vapefiend]

I've always used lg hg2 flattop batteries in my reos. I need new batteries should I give aw button tops a try? I've never had a button top battery for my reos. I couldn't find an aw button top higher than 2200mah. I'm used to 3000mah and I've never had a problem with flat tops.

 

[puffon]

I've always used lg hg2 flattop batteries in my reos. I need new batteries should I give aw button tops a try? I've never had a button top battery for my reos. I couldn't find an aw button top higher than 2200mah. I'm used to 3000mah.

I use both and don't mind the extra .5ml throw with the button press using flat tops.
The Grand was designed for button tops, but Rob has stated he will occasionally use flat tops in them, without issue.
The P67 was designed for flat tops.
To keep my life simpler I'll just buy flat tops, as I also use regulated devices.
Try them both and see what you think.

 

[SteamStack]

I've always used lg hg2 flattop batteries in my reos. I need new batteries should I give aw button tops a try? I've never had a button top battery for my reos. I couldn't find an aw button top higher than 2200mah. I'm used to 3000mah and I've never had a problem with flat tops.

Keep the flat tops as it's what's your used to.

 

[Vapefiend]

Well if I do decide button tops are they available in 3000mah?

 

[SteamStack]

Well if I do decide button tops are they available in 3000mah?

No

 

[Vapefiend]

Hmm 2200mah seems so low

 

[Vapefiend]

Anyone can compare the difference between 2200 and 3000mah run time?

 

[JC Okie]

Anyone can compare the difference between 2200 and 3000mah run time?

I'm an admitted tootle puffer, and my lowest coils usually hang around .7-.8 ohms. Also, I change my batteries out when they hit around 3.7-3.8 volts, so I actually never feel a difference in the 2200 mAh batteries and the 3000 mAh ones. I have them all in rotation and just grab what's the handiest. Sometimes I even grab a certain one just because the color of the wrap looks better in a certain REO. Others who vape really sub-ohm may (probably) have a different experience.

Also, mAh became less important to me after I retired. I can simply reach over and get a battery whenever I feel the need. I have totally gotten away from even paying attention to how long they last. Every time I leave the house I simply pop a fresh batt in, whether I need it or not.

I remember back in the day when I was still working. I had a 45-minute commute each way every day, plus the 6-8 hours there. THAT is when mAh counted. (That's also when an appropriate carrying case was as important as your PV. I hauled around sooo many 90 mAh cig-alike batteries it was crazy! When I moved way up to 650 mAh eGo batteries, wow. Changed my life. Ha.)

 

[SteamStack]

Yeah I change my batt and fill bottle.when the bottle is half empty. Battery is usually at 3.9-4.0v.

 

[oplholik]

Yeah I change my batt and fill bottle.when the bottle is half empty. Battery is usually at 3.9-4.0v.

This is exactly what I do. Half a bottle of juice, time to change the battery.

 

[Rule62]

I fill my bottle and change batteries at the same time. After vaping about 3/4 bottle, my battery will be around 3.6 to 3.65. I've gone as low as 3.5 on a battery and an empty bottle.

 

[olefolks]

The first thing I do every morning is change the batteries in my REOs. All of my batteries are in rotation around the box my check books came in.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

I'm an admitted tootle puffer, and my lowest coils usually hang around .7-.8 ohms. Also, I change my batteries out when they hit around 3.7-3.8 volts, so I actually never feel a difference in the 2200 mAh batteries and the 3000 mAh ones. I have them all in rotation and just grab what's the handiest. Sometimes I even grab a certain one just because the color of the wrap looks better in a certain REO. Others who vape really sub-ohm may (probably) have a different experience.

Also, mAh became less important to me after I retired. I can simply reach over and get a battery whenever I feel the need. I have totally gotten away from even paying attention to how long they last. Every time I leave the house I simply pop a fresh batt in, whether I need it or not.

I remember back in the day when I was still working. I had a 45-minute commute each way every day, plus the 6-8 hours there. THAT is when mAh counted. (That's also when an appropriate carrying case was as important as your PV. I hauled around sooo many 90 mAh cig-alike batteries it was crazy! When I moved way up to 650 mAh eGo batteries, wow. Changed my life. Ha.)

Jan - livin' that rockstar retired life ^^^

I change out bats when I feel a drop off in power; they're usually around 3.75 when that happens. 2200 vs 3000 mah? Not so much of a difference in terms of cycle time with .4 ohm and up builds. Any lower and... well... regulated mods are more convenient IMHO.

I have stashes of bats everywhere I'm liable to be vaping for any time - at home, at work, a few in the car (although my commutes have gone down to zero driving). They'll hold a charge for at least a couple of months, I find.

Button top AW's for the grands, flat tops (couple of brands) for anything with a side button.

 

[Vapefiend]

I'm vaping at 28g 1ohm and higher single coils now. Occasionally I'll go back to .65ohm to .70ohm. I just thought button top would be ideal for less stress on the reos positive contact since I have to push more with flat tops. I guess I'll stick with flat tops.