I use 316L stainless steel for my coils. Pretty much all preflight guidelines for kanthal apply to 316L; make sure the coil heats evenly before you wick it. Once you have wicked your coil, hotspots will persist until the coil has oxidized from heating, so get it taken care of before it spoils your wick.
I build my coils to produce my desired heat flux at 4.0 volts; this ensures the buck/boost circuitry in the mod doesn't have to do much voltage adjustment, and i can use the atomizer on a mech without a rebuild and still get a good vape.
I know i don't make myself popular with this opinion, but while complex coil builds look awesome and are rewarding to build, the extra coil mass only increases ramp up time and takes longer to cool once you have released the power. The extra wire surface area is a red herring; once the coil has heated to the point of vaporizing juice it is too hot for vaporization to be taking place at the coil surface- it happens in the wick.
TL;DR run naked wire and perfect your wicking technique.
I build my coils to produce my desired heat flux at 4.0 volts; this ensures the buck/boost circuitry in the mod doesn't have to do much voltage adjustment, and i can use the atomizer on a mech without a rebuild and still get a good vape.
I know i don't make myself popular with this opinion, but while complex coil builds look awesome and are rewarding to build, the extra coil mass only increases ramp up time and takes longer to cool once you have released the power. The extra wire surface area is a red herring; once the coil has heated to the point of vaporizing juice it is too hot for vaporization to be taking place at the coil surface- it happens in the wick.
TL;DR run naked wire and perfect your wicking technique.