SS Coil Build For Sub Ohm in TC Mode

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JeffreyD

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if u are using ss in tc mode u should never get a dry/burnt hit IME, but I use rayon which might make a difference. I get way more life out of rayon since switching from cotton. I re-wick about once a month for my 5 mods in heavy rotation, which is about 100 - 150 ml per rta/rda/rdta. The RTA (boreas and billow v3+) I run in VW mode currently and never get dry hits. If I ever run out of pre-built coils or spools of kanthal I will start using SS in TC mode in my RTA again but since I hate wasting money/goods I am using those items up in the tanks that are less likely to run dry versus the rda/rdta.



or 10 or 20......

I use Japanese cotton, never tried rayon yet. I usually go through about 15-20 mils a day (depending on top and flavor) and get about 5-6 days before I need to redo my coils/wick. One thing I've noticed using SS is that while the coils get the black build up (sweet juices) the cotton seems to not get that blackness like kanthal does under the coil.
I make my own coils, either sold or gave away all the tanks that use premise coils.
I know that sometimes the wick job makes a difference like the Griffin rta.


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Herrick

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Ni200 mode is for nickel coils. If you're using stainless steel you need to set the mod to ss (or vw) mode.

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Yeah I made sure my mod was in the correct mode. Either my coil was wrapped terribly or my mod is defective. I'm still getting 0 ohm readings on the premade coil from time to time. This only started after I attempted building my own coils.
 

Herrick

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Update. I made an .8 ohm coil and screwed it in nicely. I made damn sure the ohms didn't change after wicking. Now it seems to be working all right. I'm using a different juice. It's less thick. I'm not sure if that made a difference.

I think the main difference is that the coil is more secure and the ohm reading isn't changing. Hopefully, it'll keep working. Temperature Protection is coming on but I'm not getting a nasty burnt taste like I was getting before. Hopefully, the coil just needs to wick more so I'm gonna leave it alone for a bit. Vaping at 30 watts temperature is set to low 300s F. Wish me luck.
 
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zoiDman

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Update. I made an .8 ohm coil and screwed it in nicely. I made damn sure the ohms didn't change after wicking. Now it seems to be working all right. I'm using a different juice. It's less thick. I'm not sure if that made a difference.

I think the main difference is that the coil is more secure and the ohm reading isn't changing. Hopefully, it'll keep working. Temperature Protection is coming on but I'm not getting a nasty burnt taste like I was getting before. Hopefully, the coil just needs to wick more so I'm gonna leave it alone for a bit. Vaping at 30 watts temperature is set to low 300s F. Wish me luck.

Cool.

It Nice to have a Build/e-Liquid combination that you know Works. And something you can Always fall back to when trying Other combinations.
 

Herrick

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Temperature Protection comes on even at 200 degrees F and low wattage like 20 or 23 watts. So I switched to wattage mode and set it to 20 and it feels fine and tastes great. I've never used wattage mode. Can I safely use wattage mode even though Temp Protection comes on all the time in TC mode? Does the Temp Protection warning mean there is something wrong with my coil or wicking?
 

6steelstrings

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Update. I made an .8 ohm coil and screwed it in nicely. I made damn sure the ohms didn't change after wicking. Now it seems to be working all right. I'm using a different juice. It's less thick. I'm not sure if that made a difference.

I think the main difference is that the coil is more secure and the ohm reading isn't changing. Hopefully, it'll keep working. Temperature Protection is coming on but I'm not getting a nasty burnt taste like I was getting before. Hopefully, the coil just needs to wick more so I'm gonna leave it alone for a bit. Vaping at 30 watts temperature is set to low 300s F. Wish me luck.
You can get fluctuating ohm readings sometimes if the coil is touching the deck or the chimney. Also if the legs are not fully secure under the screws.

Low 300s seems like a very low temp to me. I am generally around the low to mid 400s, but to each his own and whatever works for you.
 

Fozzy71

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Temperature Protection comes on even at 200 degrees F and low wattage like 20 or 23 watts. So I switched to wattage mode and set it to 20 and it feels fine and tastes great. I've never used wattage mode. Can I safely use wattage mode even though Temp Protection comes on all the time in TC mode? Does the Temp Protection warning mean there is something wrong with my coil or wicking?
temp protection coming on means it is doing what it is supposed to do: controlling watts to limit the temp to what you set it to. I vape in TC mode primarily between 450 and 480 F. Max watts setting varies based on the ohms of the build. I do have a couple tanks I still run in wattage mode but that is only because I bought a bunch of pre-built fancy coils and some spools of kanthal
 
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Herrick

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You can get fluctuating ohm readings sometimes if the coil is touching the deck or the chimney. Also if the legs are not fully secure under the screws.

Low 300s seems like a very low temp to me. I am generally around the low to mid 400s, but to each his own and whatever works for you.

I have a Halo Reactor tank with .15 ohm coils that I always vaped between 400F & 450F. I recently got a Uwell Crown 2 with a .25 ohm coil and I've been vaping it around 370F. I set the wattage between 45 & 50 for those tanks. Temp Protection never came on except for when I first started using the Crown II.

With the .8 coil I wrapped today, Temp Protection comes on even at 200F at 20 watts :confused: 200F is the lowest I can set my mod to.

temp protection coming on means it is doing what it is supposed to do: controlling watts to limit the temp to what you set it to. I vape in TC mode primarily between 450 and 480 F. Max watts setting varies based on the ohms of the build. I do have a couple tanks I still run in wattage mode but that is only because I bought a bunch of pre-built fancy coils and some spools of kanthal

The lowest these Halo Reactor Mega 80/Eleaf iPower mods is 200F and Temp Protection comes on. I may not have the choice of using TC mode with these mods and this coil. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. It vapes fine in wattage mode at 20 watts. It's nice and warm. Maybe the coil has to break in more or something.
 

Herrick

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I'm confused? Why would you want to set the TC to 200F?

And what Wire Alloy of the .8 Ohm Coil you made?

Because I didn't know what I was doing ;) When I had the temperature at 350F within seconds Temp Protection would come on because I had the wattage too high. I thought lowering the temperature would help. Now that I've lowered the wattage, it's working fine now. Silly Herrick.
 

zoiDman

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Because I didn't know what I was doing ;) When I had the temperature at 350F within seconds Temp Protection would come on because I had the wattage too high. I thought lowering the temperature would help. Now that I've lowered the wattage, it's working fine now. Silly Herrick.

Well you're Back on Track. And that's All that really Matters.

:)
 

Herrick

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Yeah. I've been using stainless steel wire.

I wrapped another coil to use with the original juice I tried last time and it's working...I think. The coil was around .75 ohms when I wrapped it was stable when I wicked it and filled the tank...but when I started vaping, the mod started to read it at .58 ohms :confused:

Edit: Now the mod is reading the coil at .67. It was briefly at .73 but when down to .67. This was after "new coil" message came on .
 
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6steelstrings

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Keep in mind what Fuzzy71 said, when temp protection comes on, it is not an error, it is the mod telling you it is doing it's job. Set at a lower temp, like 200, temp protection will come on sooner and more frequently because it reaches 200 degrees quickly. Set at 500 degrees it will take longer for it to come on because it will take it longer to reach 500 degrees. Once again, it is not an error. It is something that is supposed to happen for information purposes.
 
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Herrick

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Keep in mind what Fuzzy71 said, when temp protection comes on, it is not an error, it is the mod telling you it is doing it's job. Set at a lower temp, like 200, temp protection will come on sooner and more frequently because it reaches 200 degrees quickly. Set at 500 degrees it will take longer for it to come on because it will take it longer to reach 500 degrees. Once again, it is not an error. It is something that is supposed to happen for information purposes.

Thanks 6steelstrings. I think I've finally got the hang of it. My mod is now reading the coil accurately at .82 which is pretty close to how the ohm reader registered the coil. I still don't know why it took a a few hours for everything to adjust. Is that normal?
 

Fozzy71

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Thanks 6steelstrings. I think I've finally got the hang of it. My mod is now reading the coil accurately at .82 which is pretty close to how the ohm reader registered the coil. I still don't know why it took a a few hours for everything to adjust. Is that normal?
have you tried locking the resistance when your coil is cold and/or first installed? I always lock the resistance when using TC mode on a non-dna device.
 

Herrick

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have you tried locking the resistance when your coil is cold and/or first installed? I always lock the resistance when using TC mode on a non-dna device.

I had the resistance locked even before I put on the new coil. Maybe that's why the readings became erratic? After sitting all night, it's still reading at .82. Should I still lock the resistance?
 

Fozzy71

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I had the resistance locked even before I put on the new coil. Maybe that's why the readings became erratic? After sitting all night, it's still reading at .82. Should I still lock the resistance?
I would probably unlock it, give the fire button a touch to get the coil to read to see if it changes, then lock it again. I am pretty sure my mods always have to be re-locked any time I change coils but I haven't changed a coil or wick in a month or more so I could be remembering wrong.
 

Herrick

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I would probably unlock it, give the fire button a touch to get the coil to read to see if it changes, then lock it again. I am pretty sure my mods always have to be re-locked any time I change coils but I haven't changed a coil or wick in a month or more so I could be remembering wrong.

Thanks Fozzy71. I'll do that.
 
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