The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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How hard do you have to pull on these things to draw juice out with airflowring removed? I seem to barely get a small airbubble on a 5-6sec pull. Which is way less juice then what's being vaporized. Hence wicking is not keeping up. And my juice channels are DEFINITELY clear this time.
The juice is Alpha vape - Manchu. Which seems to be 70vg/30pg. But previous experience with other wicks has also been a very small airbubble on 50/50.
Just can't get my head around how to make this thing work as I want. And adding the airflow control again to restrict airflow increasing the juicedrag seems a little counterproductive as I've grown to like the airy draw.
Any tips/clues?
I'd tuck it into the channel a bit, not around it like that. But that's just what works for me
I guess it's about time that I turn loose some of secretes that will give you consistent wicking, juicy flavorful vape every single build using Ni200 with the Lemo and DNA40.
I keep my DNA40 set to 30 watts at 400° to 430° depending on what flavor I'm running at the time, I vape Nicoticket exclusively so most of juices are 50/50 with exception of Virus which is 65/35 pg/vg.
I found that I can get and retain a consistent 0.15 - 0.16 ohm coil every single time on every one of the 6 Lemo's I own even after letting them set and/or after 15-20 minutes of normalizing/ stabilizing time.
What I build is a work hardened twisted 28/30 Ga spaced coil on a 3mm mandrel 6/5 wrap.
I usually make up about 1.5 feet of this at a time and cut it into several smaller pieces to make future coils with, you can do it how you want, but I find it convenient to have some already twisted up and cut to length and ready to go.
Start out by twisting a small loop on one end of your wire so your drill chuck has something to grab hold to here is a picture of a piece of 30ga Ni200 to give you an idea what I mean, this end will go into your drill chuck.
Holding the other end of the wire with a pair of needle nose pliers, gently keeping the slack out slowly run your drill several seconds, this twisting force will work harden your soft flimsy wire, this should take 20-30 seconds to do, if your wire breaks at the chuck before 20-30 seconds you are pulling too tightly with the pliers.
This work hardening process needs to be done on both of your wires prior to twisting the pair.
Next I take the two work hardened wires I just made and twist them together into a loop on each end in a similar as we did before.
Here I separated the two wires just for the purpose of the pic so could see the two wires. again this loop at the end will go into the drill chuck and we will hold the other with the pliers as we did earlier only pulling tight enough to keep the slack out.
If you do this right in 30-45 seconds the twist should break off at the drill chuck, if it breaks off quicker than this you are pulling too tight and/or twisting too fast with the drill, take your time with this we are not only twisting our wires tightly, we are further work hardening them too.
Once it breaks at the chuck, do it again from the other end.
Now you have a nice double work hardened twisted 28/30 Ni200 wire.
I keep my DNA40 set to 30 watts at 400° to 430° depending on what flavor I'm running at the time, I vape Nicoticket exclusively so most of juices are 50/50 with exception of Virus which is 65/35 pg/vg.
I found that I can get and retain a consistent 0.15 - 0.16 ohm coil every single time on every one of the 6 Lemo's I own even after letting them set and/or after 15-20 minutes of normalizing/ stabilizing time.
What I build is a work hardened twisted 28/30 Ga spaced coil on a 3mm mandrel 6/5 wrap.
I usually make up about 1.5 feet of this at a time and cut it into several smaller pieces to make future coils with, you can do it how you want, but I find it convenient to have some already twisted up and cut to length and ready to go.
Start out by twisting a small loop on one end of your wire so your drill chuck has something to grab hold to here is a picture of a piece of 30ga Ni200 to give you an idea what I mean, this end will go into your drill chuck.
Holding the other end of the wire with a pair of needle nose pliers, gently keeping the slack out slowly run your drill several seconds, this twisting force will work harden your soft flimsy wire, this should take 20-30 seconds to do, if your wire breaks at the chuck before 20-30 seconds you are pulling too tightly with the pliers.
This work hardening process needs to be done on both of your wires prior to twisting the pair.
Next I take the two work hardened wires I just made and twist them together into a loop on each end in a similar as we did before.
Here I separated the two wires just for the purpose of the pic so could see the two wires. again this loop at the end will go into the drill chuck and we will hold the other with the pliers as we did earlier only pulling tight enough to keep the slack out.
If you do this right in 30-45 seconds the twist should break off at the drill chuck, if it breaks off quicker than this you are pulling too tight and/or twisting too fast with the drill, take your time with this we are not only twisting our wires tightly, we are further work hardening them too.
Once it breaks at the chuck, do it again from the other end.
Now you have a nice double work hardened twisted 28/30 Ni200 wire.
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Gently roll it up, try not to tightly compress it but gently roll it up.
It should come out looking something like this.
Now lets insert this into our nice double hardened twisted 20/30 Ni200 coil, its going to be tight, and you may have to twist and tug to get it in there.
Yes I know this sounds counter intuitive to what you have been taught with wicking but trust me on this you want it fairly tight in coil, in fact once in if you try and tug from either end it should not slide. again trust me here more is better right now.
Thump the tails around a little bit and they will fray back out.
Now lets lift them up so we can slide our lower chimney on.
Lower chimney in place
It should come out looking something like this.Now lets insert this into our nice double hardened twisted 20/30 Ni200 coil, its going to be tight, and you may have to twist and tug to get it in there.
Yes I know this sounds counter intuitive to what you have been taught with wicking but trust me on this you want it fairly tight in coil, in fact once in if you try and tug from either end it should not slide. again trust me here more is better right now.
Thump the tails around a little bit and they will fray back out.
Now lets lift them up so we can slide our lower chimney on.
Lower chimney in place
Now lets juice everything up.
This was after dropping about 10 drops to each end of the coil, notice how juice is already seeping out of the juice channels, this baby is going to wick like a champ.
All fill up and the plug back in place.
Chain vaping like crazy at 30w 400° never once hitting TP chucking decent clouds and an awesome juice vape.
This was after dropping about 10 drops to each end of the coil, notice how juice is already seeping out of the juice channels, this baby is going to wick like a champ.
All fill up and the plug back in place.
Chain vaping like crazy at 30w 400° never once hitting TP chucking decent clouds and an awesome juice vape.
Well yeah hard primingpuffs works, but i don't want to do that every 3 drags. Then it would look like I'm going around training to steal gasoline from the whole parking lot at work with a rubber tube.
And the wick is all the way down on the bottom of the deck, I'm trying not to block the channel this time around. As just stuffing it down there doesn't seem to work too well either.
And the wick is all the way down on the bottom of the deck, I'm trying not to block the channel this time around. As just stuffing it down there doesn't seem to work too well either.
WeirdWillie: nice, but this doesn't show if you clip the tails, how to tuck them down etc. Which is where so many, me included, seem to go wrong.
Edit: looking closer at the picture there seems to be a boatload of cotton, so you move it around in a circle putting the tails down with the channels? hehe
Edit: looking closer at the picture there seems to be a boatload of cotton, so you move it around in a circle putting the tails down with the channels? hehe
Next just tightly spiral a piece of your twisted wire around your mandrel again I use a 6/5 wrap.
Yes right now it looks ugly, but wwe are going to fix that, take note of the tape I have wrapped around my mandrel, I use this as a shoulder for scrunching up my coil.
While scrunching your coils together, take your pliers and tug on the coil tails to pull out the slack and tighten everything up.
Now let the coil spring back to it's relaxed position and as the French would say voila there is our spaced coil.
When I mount my coils I make one loop around the screws and put a drop of juice under the screw head this act as lubricant so that the screw does not grab and try to twist while I tighten the piss out of them.
Here is what the coil looks like mounted.
As you can see from the second pic above I have the coil raised about 2mm off the deck and at a slight skew from the juice channels this is where I like my coil placement.
Next I get a piece of shiseido japanese cotton peel the thin cotton mesh from each side and cut me a piece about 1.5cm wide DO NOT cut across the grain cut with the grain.
Yes I'm about to roll all that up and and use it.
Yes right now it looks ugly, but wwe are going to fix that, take note of the tape I have wrapped around my mandrel, I use this as a shoulder for scrunching up my coil.
While scrunching your coils together, take your pliers and tug on the coil tails to pull out the slack and tighten everything up.
Now let the coil spring back to it's relaxed position and as the French would say voila there is our spaced coil.
When I mount my coils I make one loop around the screws and put a drop of juice under the screw head this act as lubricant so that the screw does not grab and try to twist while I tighten the piss out of them.
Here is what the coil looks like mounted.
As you can see from the second pic above I have the coil raised about 2mm off the deck and at a slight skew from the juice channels this is where I like my coil placement.
Next I get a piece of shiseido japanese cotton peel the thin cotton mesh from each side and cut me a piece about 1.5cm wide DO NOT cut across the grain cut with the grain.
Yes I'm about to roll all that up and and use it.
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Now lets trim those tails.
I trim them about 1cm from the top of the lower chimney.
Next lets make a reusable juice channel tool.
I took a piece of 24ga kanthal bent it in half and squeezed it together with a pair of pliers
We are going to slide this down into the juice channels to keep them clear while we fold over and gently push our wick tails down onto the lower deck
And after
Do this same thing to the other side, be careful and do not pack the tails into the lower deck, just gently push them onto it.
Now you could stop there pre-juice up your wick put everything back together, fill up and vape.
But, I'm going to teach you another one of my tricks that will not only help insure your Lemo to wick more efficiently but will also help to you that more juicy flavorful vape.
I trim them about 1cm from the top of the lower chimney.
Next lets make a reusable juice channel tool.
I took a piece of 24ga kanthal bent it in half and squeezed it together with a pair of pliers
We are going to slide this down into the juice channels to keep them clear while we fold over and gently push our wick tails down onto the lower deck
And after
Do this same thing to the other side, be careful and do not pack the tails into the lower deck, just gently push them onto it.
Now you could stop there pre-juice up your wick put everything back together, fill up and vape.
But, I'm going to teach you another one of my tricks that will not only help insure your Lemo to wick more efficiently but will also help to you that more juicy flavorful vape.
Cut another strip of cotton about 1/2cm wide.
Now cut a couple pieces about 2cm long.
What we are going to do here is what I like to call bridge the wick.
Do this to both sides, make sure you keep away from the air hole.
Now cut a couple pieces about 2cm long.
What we are going to do here is what I like to call bridge the wick.
Do this to both sides, make sure you keep away from the air hole.
Now that everything got completely out of order everyone should be thoroughly confused LOL 
Oh neat, thanks allot. That's a very descriptive pictorial. I'll give this a test in the morning. 
Even though the order got a little garbled it's no problem to go back and forth a little to get the idea.
Edit: Almost worthy an own pictorial thread just to get things right again.
God, what is it with me and edits tonight.
Double edit: A mod can just shuffle it.
Even though the order got a little garbled it's no problem to go back and forth a little to get the idea.
Edit: Almost worthy an own pictorial thread just to get things right again.
God, what is it with me and edits tonight.
Double edit: A mod can just shuffle it.
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So what is the purpose of adding extra cotton strips?
I wonder if this will work with Rayon.
It comes with a 26g 1.2ohm coil pre-installed. Make sure you wash the lemo with soap and hot water when it arrives before using it.
Damn Willie, that is a s**t load of cotton. I'm not saying you are doing it wrong, whatever works for you, but that is about triple what I use. This is how I have always done mine and have never had an issue vaping at 24watts/410F. I guess that is the beauty of the Lemo.
Are you using a machine screw to wrap your coils? If you are, whats the ... you know... the dimensions and size of the screw.
Cause mine spaced coils are kind of crooked.
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