18500 aluminium mod

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jbs

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Jan 14, 2011
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Here is my approach on custom pv but this time its 18500 mod made of aluminium.

It is still without venting holes and i am planing on painting it with clear lacquer to make it scratch resistant. Powder coating and anodizing is out of the question. Any ideas what lacquer would be suitable?

-alu tube - 22mm/~1.6mm
-alu rod - 19mm (cut or rather "sliced" to make top and bottom caps)
-1/2" bspt stainless steel barrel nipple
-stewalin
-12 gauge copper wire
-"small" screw (i think m1 or m2 but i am not sure)
-piece of spring
-button taken from keychain
-subminiature micro-switch



btw. Apart that my main tool is dremel i can say that it is handmade. I dont even have a vice:p
 
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WillyB

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Oct 21, 2009
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Very sleek. How did you get the 'sliced' aluminum caps to blend in so perfectly?

i am planing on painting it with clear lacquer to make it scratch resistant
Lacquer should help to retain the shine, it's not very durable though (not for scratch resistance) and will probably not be a long term solution.

But it's cheap and easy to apply. I would look into some sort of solvent for a final wipe of the aluminum before applying.

You may want to look into some of the acrylic based sprays.
 

jbs

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The ID of alu tube i used is around 19mm (~18.85mm) and the OD of alu rod is ~19.10mm. Since i didn't want to use washers i had to make them from alu. So i cut off 2 "slices" of rod ~5mm each. In order to achieve more or less a perfect tight fit i bored out the alu tube. The last thing to do was to simply make it look even. How? Dremel, cutting wheel and good old fashioned sandpaper and water. I was preparing it for mirror finish (that was my first idea but it turned out that i like brushed look more) and to be honest with you i didn't expect that caps will blend soooooo well. It was a suprise for me as well.

Thanks for the advise WillyB. I was thinking of alloy lacquer or sth. Oh yeah and i better degrease it before painting.
 

WillyB

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it turned out that i like brushed look more
It looks very nice in your pics, polished would just be a fingerprint magnet. :)

Now for your next project can I recommend this as a start?

IMR26650__71956_zoom.jpg


:p
 

HyOnLyph

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beautiful mod. really nice switch assembly. Of all of the mod instructions I've seen... I can't figure out how the switch etc fit into the tube and are held there. I understand the wiring just not the fit. Yeah, I see on the bulky red switched that they are screwed held in with an external nut... but not this one.
Any chances on seeing a photo of the inside of the switch housing?

Also, who was your supplier on the switch & button?

Thanks
 

jbs

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Jan 14, 2011
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It would take a while for me to explain in english so i hope that helps:


Switch
SubMiniature LeverMicroswitch : Micro Switches : Maplin

That little button i have extracted from an old key ring LED flashlight thing.

@asdaq - I used only 1/2" bspt tap and multi wrench to cut threads ohh and sunflower oil. And i think i will have to take a picture how i was holding pipe while i was threading it becouse you will not believe me.
 

asdaq

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Hey I believe you, I've got a small vise, but for certain things vise grips held with several very-important-to-me-only wood shims in a miter box all secured with my foot while I drill. That's drill, no dremel.

jbs, did you get your stewalin in the UK? Someone there is looking for some if you have a link, please.
 
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WillyB

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... I can't figure out how the switch etc fit into the tube and are held there. I understand the wiring just not the fit. Yeah, I see on the bulky red switched that they are screwed held in with an external nut...

Thanks
You gotta think outside the box (or inside the tube) sometimes.

I like this big button switch.

pRS1C-2160452w345.jpg


Here's how it looks installed.

FL2_.jpg


Like jbs the switch body is all inside, secured with a little epoxy. That's also an 18500 mod that's eGo atty/carto ready. Not as slick looking but it's got a nice deep well to deal with those leaky eGo Mega Atties I like.

:)
 

HyOnLyph

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jbs and Willie Thanks,
So it's just epoxy (or Stewalin??) it into place. I was thinking there must be some special tool or premade piece necessary. I was hoping an expandable foam might work but that could get out of hand really fast.:eek:) I'm sure it takes finesse but I think I can do epoxy.

You gotta think outside the box (or inside the tube) sometimes.

I like this big button switch.

pRS1C-2160452w345.jpg


Here's how it looks installed.

FL2_.jpg


Like jbs the switch body is all inside, secured with a little epoxy. That's also an 18500 mod that's eGo atty/carto ready. Not as slick looking but it's got a nice deep well to deal with those leaky eGo Mega Atties I like.

:)
 

jbs

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Jan 14, 2011
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UK/Poland
jbs and Willie Thanks,
So it's just epoxy (or Stewalin??) it into place. I was thinking there must be some special tool or premade piece necessary. I was hoping an expandable foam might work but that could get out of hand really fast.:eek:) I'm sure it takes finesse but I think I can do epoxy.

Yes its just epoxy that holds microswitch in place. Stewalin is used as a filler inside barrel nipple to secure copper wire in place and to isolate it from body. I dont see a problem of using epoxy or even expandable foam. In my case its just easier and less messy to work with stewalin. Another thing is that i didn't fill the whole nipple with casting material. I left 2-3mm of free space inside so i could fitt microswitch inside nipple betwen its wall an copper wire. Just take a look at diagram, that microswitch is fitted slightly inside nipple.

@Kenom - Thanks for info - shame its available only in US and the price is disencouraging

@asdaq - I think i have came across that thread. Unfortunately i had to get Stewalin from ebay (Germany) and yes i have paid that ridiculous P&P. So far i have not found any UK retailers.
 
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jbs

Full Member
Jan 14, 2011
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UK/Poland
I took 22mm aluminium pipe/tube and cut it to desired length. The thread inside the tube was cut with 1/2" bspt tap. Bottom cap is made from solid aluminium rod that i had to cut to get a ~5mm washer-like piece. In the center of that cap i drilled a ( 1mm or slightly more) hole to fit a screw and spring. Next step was to press that cap inside the bottom part of tube. In order to make it look smooth and even i used dremel tool and than sandpaper and water.
 
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