18650 Batteries not charging full?

[Human Exhaust]

I have two brands. A efest 18650 2000mAh and a AW 18650 2000mAh.

I have a trustfire tr01 charger. (I know its a POS, I have a xtar VP1 on the way!)

I noticed that when I pulled my Efest battery off the charger after the green light my multimeter would
show 3.54-3.59 volts. It would not go to the suggested 4.2v reading (5 times I recharged with the same result).
So i went and bought a AW brand. This thing is waaaay better, I'm noticing a huge difference in how long it
last and how it makes my mod perform. BUT when I recharged it, I had the same issue. The multimeter showed
3.54 instead of 4.2v after the charger was showing green.

Am I doing something wrong? Or is it the POS charger? .... again.

Additional information should note that the Efest did get taken down to 3.1v at one point. The AW never went
below 3.51v. I got the AW out of the box and it showed 3.8v and I used it for a couple vapes to make sure it
worked and stuck in right on the charger at 3.51v. The charger actually never turned red when I put the AW in
but was green from the get go.

 

[Human Exhaust]

They are efest 18650 and AW 18650 IMR 2000mAh 3.7v batteries.

 

[scalewiz]

I'd say you need to change your charger. If not for the reason of getting your batteries to full charge, for a potential safety standpoint.

If you have a multimeter, fasten it across your battery while charging. You will see the voltage rise as the battery is becoming charged. If the charger turns green before the voltage reaches 4.2 volts, then you should be able to assume that the charger is cutting off too early. On the other hand, it should turn green before the battery exceeds 4.25 volts. If not, that charger is overcharging and must NOT be used.

 

[zoiDman]

I have two brands. A efest 18650 2000mAh and a AW 18650 2000mAh.

I have a trustfire tr01 charger. (I know its a POS, I have a XTAR VP1 on the way!)

I noticed that when I pulled my Efest battery off the charger after the green light my multimeter would
show 3.54-3.59 volts. It would not go to the suggested 4.2v reading (5 times I recharged with the same result).
So i went and bought a AW brand. This thing is waaaay better, I'm noticing a huge difference in how long it
last and how it makes my mod perform. BUT when I recharged it, I had the same issue. The multimeter showed
3.54 instead of 4.2v after the charger was showing green.

Am I doing something wrong? Or is it the POS charger? .... again.

Additional information should note that the Efest did get taken down to 3.1v at one point. The AW never went
below 3.51v. I got the AW out of the box and it showed 3.8v and I used it for a couple vapes to make sure it
worked and stuck in right on the charger at 3.51v. The charger actually never turned red when I put the AW in
but was green from the get go.

So you are Saying that the Efest Doesn't Charge up to 4.2v but the A Does on the Same Charger?

If so, it sounds like there is Nothing Wrong with you Charger. It sounds like the Efest battery is Wacked.

 

[Human Exhaust]

So you are Saying that the Efest Doesn't Charge up to 4.2v but the A Does on the Same Charger?

If so, it sounds like there is Nothing Wrong with you Charger. It sounds like the Efest battery is Wacked.

Neither the EFEST or the AW are charge past 3.6v.

 

[MoonLit_Water]

There is a switch on the right hand side of the tr01, make sure it is set on 3.6V and not 3.0V

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University

 

[Rickajho]

POS charger. Especially with those kind of results with old and brand new batteries. You will be much relieved when the VP1 shows up. It will charge IMR's and hybrids to the 4.2 volt cutoff voltage and show it on the display accordingly. The display will then show the resting battery voltage dropping to 4.18 volts, maybe in five minutes or more, and stay there - as it should be.

 

[zoiDman]

Neither the EFEST or the AW are charge past 3.6v.

Oh... Well then t Definitely is the Charger.

If your Charger has a Switch like MoonLit_Water mentioned, maybe it is on the Wrong Setting.

There is a switch on the right hand side of the tr01, make sure it is set on 3.6V and not 3.0V

I have a Trustfire TR-001. Have used it for 2 Years without a Problem. Mine Doesn't have a Output Voltage Switch.

 

[Rickajho]

The technical poop on a pretty crappy charger => Review of Charger TrustFire TR-001

The current version does have a 3.0/3.6v switch setting.

"...it will keep the voltage of the battery at 3.6 volt and the batter will first drop to about 3.4 volt when removed from the charger."

"I do not like chargers that continues to charger, but it can be used as long as the battery is removed within a few hours after the led changes to green." (It does not cutoff current at the completion of the charge cycle. This is the kind of charger that results in "never leave your charged batteries in the charger" mythology. Except in this case it's not a myth - it's true.)

All that, and the positively exhausting charge times for 18650 batteries.

 

[SissySpike]

Lesson learned get a good charger and chalk one up for exp

 

[danny4x4]

Haha, to throw a spanner in the works, could it be that your multimeter is wonky?
It may be a possibility.

I've had an experience where the voltage showed 4.4, on the multimeter. Switching the multimeter off and on again, the reading became 4.2.

 

[AttyPops]

Also, there's a voltage drop across any resistance. So clean contacts/probes.

TR-001 charger in use for 3 years and it charges everything fine. Overnight too. Batteries never get too hot. No output switch. Charges old and new to 4.2 (or 4.19...)

So... I wish you elitist guys would quit trashing my no-frills but acceptable charger! Sheesh!

 

[Rickajho]

Pops you have the three year old version. It is not the same thing as the current, reinvented for the 9th time, model in the marketplace.

 

[AttyPops]

Fair enough. Still....

I'll bet it's the switch.

Otherwise...we'd be hearing this from everyone. Unless the OP is the 1st of many....

Even that "expert review" linked above said it was an OK charger. So, ?????????

IDK if it's fair to call it a POS just because someone is a BRAND-X-CHARGER fanboi...just say'n.

I know it's the internet and all. I respect getting decent tools. But the "there's only ONE way that's acceptable" mentality is a bit....overpowering sometimes. Like everyone has crap except Joe-cool who has BRAND-X. Meh.

Sorry. Maybe it is a POS, IDK. Let's see what the OP says about the switch.....

/rant.

 

[SissySpike]

Also, there's a voltage drop across any resistance. So clean contacts/probes.

TR-001 charger in use for 3 years and it charges everything fine. Overnight too. Batteries never get too hot. No output switch. Charges old and new to 4.2 (or 4.19...)

So... I wish you elitist guys would quit trashing my no-frills but acceptable charger! Sheesh!

Im sorry I also forget people by 5$ meters and dont get correct readings

EDIT: BUT if he had a good charger we would not have to guess if it was the charger or battery;-)

 

[AttyPops]

Oh, and I wish they'd fix the model # thing......Grrrrrr.

How do you tell em apart? Why not put -a -b -c on em?

 

[AttyPops]

Im sorry I also forget people by 5$ meters and dont get correct readings

I have an $80 meter. But it's not a Fluke. I guess I'm all inferior... I don't have Rolex watches either (or whatever the worldly people worship these days).

Point is...I try not to buy $5.00 chargers. But I also don't get a snobby about what I do buy. And if I had a provari, or a Rolex or whatnot, I guess I would try not to look down at others. Particularly since we don't know if the OP has the switch set properly yet......

And that's a generalization, not an accusation directed at you or anyone in particular, but the internet purchasing thing in general.

 

[Rickajho]

U just not paying attention! lol - sorta. This is coming up a lot. The latest gripes on ECF are:

What you get operates in two modes: It either overcharges in the range of 4.3 volts. Or it maxxes out like the OP's version at around 3.6 volts. (Which is what the tested model does too.)

If you want a charger that takes 12+ hours to charge an 18650 2900 mAh battery well step right up! The higher the mAh capacity of the battery the less likely a "new improved" TR001 is to ever complete the charge cycle.

They do not terminate current to the battery at the end of the charge cycle. This is both a potentially unsafe design and unnecessary. The battery rides a constant source of applied current that varies based on feedback of the battery voltage. Wrong. If you own any TR001 - old or new - take the batteries off the charger when (if) the charge cycle is completed.

 

[SissySpike]

I have an $80 meter. But it's not a Fluke. I guess I'm all inferior... I don't have Rolex watches either (or whatever the worldly people worship these days).

Point is...I try not to buy $5.00 chargers. But I also don't get a snobby about what I do buy. And if I had a provari, or a Rolex or whatnot, I guess I would try not to look down at others. Particularly since we don't know if the OP has the switch set properly yet......

And that's a generalization, not an accusation directed at you or anyone in particular, but the internet purchasing thing in general.

I was not aiming at you ether except for the edit that was 100% a hook meant strictly for you;-) I forget to ask what meter and such when people have problems. I have a 70 dollar meter recommended by a electrician buddy. A Fluke would mean one less mod!