24g single coil - slow to fire - device or coil?

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edyle

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ps- the thing that scares me about mech's is hot button and blazing batteries. i had it on my p18 and until i fixed the spring with a wire leg, i was getting it on my sig19. i'm kind of a chicken when it comes to that lol. i used to have to fling my P18 across the floor of my truck will driving, several x because of a short somewhere.

Check out the innokin DRV; vape off your truck battery.

innokin-drv-vaping-device-02.jpg
 
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CloudZ

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thank you. i will try that. i also have 28g, 30, and 32 kanthal. maybe i should roll what i know with 30g and do it dual coil. i also need to inspect the screw bottoms to make sure they are making contact with the wires in the posts. one of the screws looks high, but it is tight. may just be the price of using 28g ?
Your 24 gauge will not do well on a 20 Watt mod. It just isn't enough power for wire that thick. A 28 gauge single coil at 0.8 ohms will do well, or the same resistance using 30 gauge dual coils (1.6 ohms each).
 

juicefreak

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Your 24 gauge will not do well on a 20 Watt mod. It just isn't enough power for wire that thick. A 28 gauge single coil at 0.8 ohms will do well, or the same resistance using 30 gauge dual coils (1.6 ohms each).


I added a second coil tonight. both are about .4 ohms. using my sig 19 with a sony vtc4 30 amp battery and it's still slow to heat up and the mod is getting hot. I took the battery out and the battery is not hot = just the stainless mod. I'm going to tear all that out tomorrow and start fresh with 28 or 30 gauge and shoot for two 2.0 ohm coils to vape safely at 1 ohm and see how it does. I'm thinking either the Igo-M is the problem or my lack of expertise with sub ohm coils.

worse comes to worse, there is a good local vape shop (Vapor Hut) that can hook me up with how to do it safely. Meanwhile, i'm vaping on my 1.5 ohm phoenix single coil on my sig 20w and happy as a clam lol. I should get my russian in a few days and i'll have something new to play with.

when i roll dual coils = 1 ohm total, i'll put less cotton in also and see if that helps airflow. so far the igo-M is just not enjoyable until i get it right.

thank you guys for your tips and help. i really appreciate it. nice to have ppl have your back on ECF to help you troubleshoot.
 

juicefreak

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hum... you could always get a Reo Grande, with the new sub ohm contacts they come with now then you could do 0.2Ω no problems...
plus and this is a big plus you get to squonk juice, squeeze a bottle underneath the rba that pushes fresh juice up through a tube to the deck ;)

you could drive squonk fresh juice vape repeat :D

the place where you can buy them>>reosmods.com
the guy on this forum that sells em is called redeyedancer, just telling you this cus if you do get interested and you see anything you like on his site and you don't see it in stock just PM him and he will sort you out

And this is the place where the Reo family hang out>>Reos Mods

they are the best most helpful people ever :) hope that helps . GL


a nice LP SL Reo Grande 18650 (LP-Low Profile)(SL-Superlight)
LP RM2 RBA :)

thx SL. I'm going to wait until i get my russian and see if i like that better. i do like dripping though. been vaping for about 5 yrs now and have been making my own juice for about 4 yrs. there are SO many new devices out there from the past year that i've been out of touch for awhile on what to use.

dripping is just so nice, so i'm hoping to get something that works well and be done with it. i enjoy vaping more than fiddling with vape stuff lol
 

juicefreak

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I accidentally bought 250 feet of 23ga from Kanthal A-1 250ft Spool - Kidney Puncher and that is some thick wire! I don't know what to do with myself. I am going to try to build a 1.0 ohm coil for my DNA-30 and see if I can get it to ramp up fast. $31 bucks and a lot of heavy duty wire.

ouch! maybe you can trade some of it for a higher gauge. that's why i buy my kanthal at tempco. i got 25 ft for $5.29 and free shipping. Kanthal Wire 24 Gauge RW0248 - 25 FT 0.39oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG It's easier to buy small rolls to see what works for me. I used to use nicachrome or "kanthal" from vape shops that never heard of "A-1" and coils popped to easily. The tempco A-1 is amazing. The only time i have to rebuild a coil is from wanting to, not needing to. I has totally made vaping so much easier and affordable for me. lol i remember using 510 attys that would last a day from poor QC years ago. That's when i decided to start making my own ;-)
 

blueGrassTubb

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ok i can see i wouldn't be able to vape .5 dual coils on my 20w device. says it would need 35 watts? would have to use it on my sig 19 mech. i think it's probably time for a cheap new mech for efficiency. View attachment 332855

The specs of the Sig 20W state that it can fire down to .5Ω, but according to tests done by Phil Busardo, the floor is actually .65Ω. It's similar with the DNA30. It states that it can fire down to .3Ω, though everyone I know who has one states that .5Ω is a more realistic number. There is a technical reason for it. No one can beat Ohm's Law.

On the Sig 20W and a .5Ω coil, even at 20W, the MOD is only discharging 3.1v, which may not be enough to fire the coil (especially if you're using a thicker gauge). In fact, it won't fire because the Sig 20W can't slag the voltage enough to get that low unless you have a severely depleted battery. You're gonna want around 35W to push it at 4.2v, and that's still well below what many people consider acceptable for a good vape. Even at .65Ω we're only getting 3.6v. I'd bet that it still might not fire, especially with a fully charged battery, because the Sig 20W doesn't have step-down circuitry.

A DNA 30 has similar problems with a .3Ω coil. It too doesn't have step-down circuitry and has a very hard time discharging at voltages much lower than the actual charge of the battery. With a .3Ω coil, the MOD would need to step down to 3v. It simply isn't capable of doing that unless you have a very low charge on the battery. You can vape a .5Ω coil, but only once the battery loses some of its charge from a fully charged state. With a fully charged battery, you would need ~35W to fire a .5Ω coil. At .3Ω (and a fully charged battery - 4.2v) needs around 58W.

There is one commercially available chip (SX350) that I know of which DOES have step-down circuitry (it can make the battery discharge at voltages much lower than its current charge) and supposedly has a floor of .2Ω, but they aren't widely available yet. But even then, the 35W ceiling will make for a very cool vape if you try a .2Ω atty. It's only outputting 2.6v which would likely take forever to heat up the coils sufficiently, and even if it can heat up the coils enough to vape, the vapor is going to be pretty cool and thin.

I fully anticipate 200W MODs by the end of next year for sub-Ωers who want to use a regulated MOD. Right now, the real barrier isn't the chips themselves, but the batteries. Surely, because we're humans, someone will want to delve in to sub .2Ω coils. In order to get a good vape (I arbitrarily define a good vape as one fired at around 4.2v) with a .1Ω coil, you need 176W which taxes any batteries we use at 42 amps. There are few batteries that can handle that kind of amperage. The one I know of (SONY SE US26650VT T C11) has a ceiling of 50W, but's it's a 26650 S(so much for small MODs for super sub-Ωers, and the word is that they are being discontinued. There may well be a LiPo of some kind that can handle that kind of amperage, but I don't know.
 

juicefreak

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Took my IGO-M to vapor hut and they rolled me a new dual coil @ .5 ohms. no more hot Sig 19 and it vapes good. The coils are closer to the posts than the center block and duh me realized just turn the huge IGO-M holes over to that side ;-) voila = i like it!

I'm going to take my 24g wire up there to give them some, because i think it's too thick to fire quick enough on my sig19. 28g seems to work better
 

KurrptSenate

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absolutely nothing wrong with filling the deck with cotton and juice. if anything, it helps to reduce the chamber as the volume of air the chamber is capable of holding is reduced.

now, it's doubtful the wick would be able to have sufficient capillary action to work juice from the other side to the coil, but that's beside the point.
 
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