4 Vamos fail to fire IClear30, Am i just unlucky or are new vamos crap

[doofy666]

That screw can it just be completely unscrewed and removed like any other normal screw.

In my experience, yes. I'll have taken it off about 20 times.

The first time was the scariest

And my knee jerk response to your concerns about juice leakage into the electronics of the vamo is that my bodge ought to make this less likely. The spacers should help to make a tighter seal than a wobbly screw. Note my use of the word "should".

 

[edyle]

Hmmm... not as simple as I expected. I decided to make a spacer(s) and it took over an hour. But most of this was thinking time.

First find some thin metal that can be cut with scissors. I used .009 inch stainless steel sheet. A coke can is probably similar. I don't think it needs to be conductive but if you want guaranteed conductivity then you will probably need to sand the coke can to bare metal.

Drill a 3mm hole in the metal.

Now - and this is the important part - cut the metal as close as you can possibly get to the hole. If you look at the top of the vamo with the 510 screw removed, you will see a definite circle a bit larger than the screw head. The screw head is about 4mm.This is what we are aiming for. I think there is a slight slope outside this circle - this kept giving me "low load" errors when my spacer had too large an external diameter.

Repeat the process. I have 3 spacers in my vamo, it fires my iclear, and there is the slightest of gaps between iclear and vamo. There's a much larger gap with my kayfun 4 which is what I needed this fix for.

Put spacers on 510 screw and tighten as tightly as you dare.

This vamo is an absolutely stupid design. You have to adjust a 510 screw to accomodate different attys and the screw moves as you take attys on or off. But I am now a happy bunny cos my fix works for me. I wonder how long it will last.

The reason I said above that conductivity is probably not an issue with the spacer is cos my first attempt was a nylon spacer that fitted perfectly. This allowed my ego threaded pro tank 3 mini to fire (for the first time), but was too deep to allow a 510 to screw on.

I didn't figure it out myself for months either, but you don't have to make your own spacer; all you do is thread the beauty ring UP to the tank to fill the gap.

 

[minos316]

I didn't figure it out myself for months either, but you don't have to make your own spacer; all you do is thread the beauty ring UP to the tank to fill the gap.

Not fussed with the gap that doesn't bother me. its just as doofy says when removed and attached a few times the screw has a way of making its way down again.

 

[edyle]

Not fussed with the gap that doesn't bother me. its just as doofy says when removed and attached a few times the screw has a way of making its way down again.

Yeah; I know; it's not about the gap;

It's about not overtightening the topper onto the mod.

By putting the topper on, checking that it works, then threading the beauty ring upwards to 'fill the gap' what you are also doing is locking the topper in place; now the topper does not rock.

Also, when I do that, I do not keep unscrewing the 510 connector and screwing it back on again. Once I put a topper on my vamo or zmax, it pretty much stays there for weeks or months at a time.

Also, while you have to be gently screwing in the 510 thread so that it does not overtighten, you can thread the beauty ring upwards very firmly without worry.

 

[terrance507]

wow i am having the exact same problems you described early on, only I have a vamo v6 20w. it fires but not to what it is set at, not even close. Mine has a spring loaded 510 connection though, If I put a fresh off the charger battery in it it will fire what its set at for about 20-30 fires, then weak half firing with no error messages, tried brand new batteries, new tanks, new everything, Just got a smok m-65 in the mail yesterday and now I am certain its the vamo chip itself, because the same batteries and tanks fire away on my new mod

 

[HazyShades]

I agree with the consensus so far. Pull the pin in the tank. Do not use foil to make up the diff as you could short the thing.
While it might be the VAMO, I have 4 of those - 3 fives and a seven and not had that issue.

As far as the one with the stripped thread, you can get an adapter and force screw it on
to the stripped threads then put your tank on the adapter.

Hope you solve the problem.
Regards.

 

[minos316]

I might just super glue the screw at the correct height. Mine literally works for a couple of draws and then will display check atomizer, faulty imo design flaw or not. Does this literally everytime i change tanks, its faulty, going to send it back.

This is even with the use of a beauty ring off of the old vamo to keep the tank stable, keeps doing it.

wow i am having the exact same problems you described early on, only I have a vamo v6 20w. it fires but not to what it is set at, not even close. Mine has a spring loaded 510 connection though, If I put a fresh off the charger battery in it it will fire what its set at for about 20-30 fires, then weak half firing with no error messages, tried brand new batteries, new tanks, new everything, Just got a smok m-65 in the mail yesterday and now I am certain its the vamo chip itself, because the same batteries and tanks fire away on my new mod

Aye i had a similar with the v7 worked fine then all of a sudden ran crap and nothing would make it run properly again. I also at one point took it out of my pocket and the top cap was literally at a scalding temperature. A guy left a review on the v7 reporting a similar issue with the head. i should of taken notice of all the bad revew coverage of the v7, its a shame because it looks the bizz. i means thats why i bought it.

I've been looking an innokins stuff the old SVD imo looks ridiculous the new one 2.0 looks great but doesn't do VV so thats out. The search continues...

 

[edyle]

My vamo3 I got in Jan 2013 started to give problems after 3 months; had to pull the pressfit top off (after a week of trying by hand I put it on a vice and got it off); and I replaced the insulator grommet on the center pin.

Worked for another 3 months then I had to do it again - easier the second time since I'd done it before - and replaced the grommet again with one of those center pin silicone grommets that comes with protank coils.
That vamo3 is a brass chrome one so the metal is soft; haven't had the problem so far with my vamo5s which is steel but if that one goes I'm guessing its going to be a pain to pop open the top.
Meanwhile I've got a v6 pcb board standing by in case the circuitry inside one or the other needs replaceing.

 

[penstyle]

Knock on wood. Have 3 Vamo v2's and no problems.

 

[carrielsal]

Eleaf iStick 30W Battery with no wall adaptor - Cvapor.com

This site is not using encryption. You will be putting your personal information at risk, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion/645995-warning-do-not-use-cvapor-com.html.