4th nicostick...new problem!
- Thread starter HippyGirl
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Hanging it up...
I just re-did the whole thing with a brand new box, wires, switch and the new RCA connection...
N-O-T-H-I-N-G!!!
I followed all the advice and checked everything with the meter...found no problems.
Even the friggin new RCA connection I made that DID produce vapor when I "straight-wired" it no longer works even "straight-wired"! I can't take it apart because I glued the connector to the RCA jack BECAUSE it worked when I straight-wired it.
So, I'm out of connectors.
I simply do not understand why I was able to make two successfully but, following the same EXACT procedure, cannot make another one to save my life.
I'm sorry that I kept bugging you all, and thank you so much for all your help, but I'm done now.
Sherry
I just re-did the whole thing with a brand new box, wires, switch and the new RCA connection...
N-O-T-H-I-N-G!!!
I followed all the advice and checked everything with the meter...found no problems.
Even the friggin new RCA connection I made that DID produce vapor when I "straight-wired" it no longer works even "straight-wired"! I can't take it apart because I glued the connector to the RCA jack BECAUSE it worked when I straight-wired it.
So, I'm out of connectors.
I simply do not understand why I was able to make two successfully but, following the same EXACT procedure, cannot make another one to save my life.
I'm sorry that I kept bugging you all, and thank you so much for all your help, but I'm done now.
Sherry
Don't give up. You are so close to understanding this stuff. You just have to have it click. Put it away for a while. Let it work in your head. Walk away. Let it rest. Read some other stuff about it.
On of the best lessons I have learned on self taught stuff is to walk away. If it's not clicking it will if you don't force it. Let your sub conscience work on it.
On of the best lessons I have learned on self taught stuff is to walk away. If it's not clicking it will if you don't force it. Let your sub conscience work on it.
Oh your definitely hooked now
When you glued the rca adapter together it may have insulated the battery connector. check that with the meter. you can probably unscrew the end and get a solder "blob" to remake the contact between the two
As said above, open the rca jack and make a solder bridge between the inside of the barrel and the outside of the atomizer connector. That should get you going again.
Oh your definitely hooked now
When you glued the rca adapter together it may have insulated the battery connector. check that with the meter. you can probably unscrew the end and get a solder "blob" to remake the contact between the two
Oh noooooo...you see, when "I" glue something, it's for good. Let's just say that my first RCA/801 connector is at peace. 'K?
I do still have two 801 connectors, but I've soldered, desoldered, and re-soldered them both so many times that I'm afraid they're toast. Isn't there some sort of insulator inside of them that can melt?
Sigh..........
ETA..when looking into the top of the 801 connector, I see what appears to be a white-ish plastic around the perimeter of the center of the connector. Is this the insulator? It doesn't appear to be damaged...
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HA!
I'VE GOT VAPOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've been trying to solder the red wire to the top of the RIM of the hole in the center of the connector, but I said screw it and soldered it INSIDE of the hole and it worked. It filled up the hole with solder, but it worked.
Only problem now is the hard draw., so where is the best place to drill a small hole or two? Down the center or into the side of the connector flush with the bottom threads?
ETA - I took a tiny drill bit and a hand drill and made a hole through the center and, luckily, did not touch the wiring.
Draws REAL easy now.
S
I'VE GOT VAPOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've been trying to solder the red wire to the top of the RIM of the hole in the center of the connector, but I said screw it and soldered it INSIDE of the hole and it worked. It filled up the hole with solder, but it worked.
Only problem now is the hard draw., so where is the best place to drill a small hole or two? Down the center or into the side of the connector flush with the bottom threads?
ETA - I took a tiny drill bit and a hand drill and made a hole through the center and, luckily, did not touch the wiring.
Draws REAL easy now.
S
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congrats hippygirl,
a little tip i found helpful when soldering to 901 connectors...
pushing the center pole from the bottom allows the center pole to come out of the connector making it much easier to solder to just besure to put the rubber insulator on the wire you are soldering to so you can easily push the insulator back onto the center connector before inserting it back into the outter shell.
a little tip i found helpful when soldering to 901 connectors...
pushing the center pole from the bottom allows the center pole to come out of the connector making it much easier to solder to just besure to put the rubber insulator on the wire you are soldering to so you can easily push the insulator back onto the center connector before inserting it back into the outter shell.
You can also extend the wire through the entire connector so that it comes out the atomizer side, bend it over into a little loop flat against the inner circle, and solder it there. Has the added benefit of acting as a permanent "staple mod", and keeps the barrel of the RCA jack from blocking airflow on 801's (because it won't screw in as far).
--Dave
--Dave
That *is* a great idea, but it seems more fitting to a 'normal' install than an RCA install - how are you going to make the connection to the male end and not have it break after opening it to clean leaks? I thought that was the reason for cutting down the barrel of the RCA plug so that it's the two center conductors (plug and atomizer connector) making contact.
I don't open them, I boil them with my atomizers in filtered or distilled water with a little vinegar (ascetic acid), rinse in water with a little baking soda (to neutralize the acid and prevent corrosion) and then bake in the oven at 300 for 30 minutes (to get the water dried before it can contribute to corrosion). My device-side RCA fittings are completely sealed from the body by epoxy, so the PG doesn't get into the electronics.
--Dave
--Dave
VERY good advice-just take your time putting the silicone/rubber insulater back into the atty hole so you don't tear it-using a small blunt object works the best. I have actually used larger diameter wire insulation and a nail for my atty center posts when I ruined them (before I knew this trick, lol-so I managed to save the connectors that way)
On my RCA adaptors I use a piece of a large paperclip pushed through the atty centre post and soldered to seal. I leave it slightly above flush for better contact. When the bottom is screwed on the paperclip slides into the hole in the RCA male end as well as the atty centre post making contact.
On the broken seals I've had I used heat shrink in layers to get a good fit.
Just a quick file across the top edge or build up with solder to get a good connection finishes the job
On the broken seals I've had I used heat shrink in layers to get a good fit.
Just a quick file across the top edge or build up with solder to get a good connection finishes the job
I used a 4AA battery box and run 3 14500 3.6v 900mah batterys in series, this thing is like the enigizer bunny it just keeps going and going! Specks are 510 batterys 3.6v 160mah. 510 passthrough 3.6v 320mah my 4AA Nico stick is 3.6v at 2700mah, super vaper! I've built 5 different types of Nico sticks without any problums. Don't see needing to build a 5v model sence amps is the key for atomisor life and great vape, and always test every connection step by step as you build, don't just put it all together and try to find out where you went wrong! The atomisor connecter is the only tricky thing I've found.
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