510 batt connector-insulator

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Rocketman

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I've seen many posts where folks are having one heck of a time putting the insulator back in a 510 connector after taking it out to solder. I used to fight them also until I started doing it the right way :)

Even if you are careful you will probably degrade the insulator to solder to the connector. It may look OK, but it's life has been shortened. So take it out.

Take a CLOSE LOOK at the insulator and you will see a bevel on the lower edge. This is to press the insulator in. Lubicate the insulator (spit or a little PG) place it in the connector from the outside with bevel facing down. Take a 3/16 inch drill bit (not the cutting end) and slowly press the insulator into place. The white insulators from most cartomizers seem to be a little tougher than the clear ones (free spare parts).

Then press the center pin in. Ta Da !!
 

Rocketman

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I think if you heat them with a soldering iron you will see the difference. These follow normal rubber bushing design. They may be a neoprene material. White neoprene is used in food processing equipment.

Bevel for installation, retaining groove, and flange for axial pressure from the carto.
 
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emus

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Jun 9, 2009
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I think if you heat them with a soldering iron you will see the difference. These follow normal rubber bushing design.

Bevel for installation, retaining groove, and flange for axial pressure from the carto.

Sorry no pic.
The heat shrink tube follows all the contours of center pin and provide insulation and axial support.
A dab of RTV seals the deal.

I just didn't have any new flexible insulators on hand at the time. The heat shrink tube lasted several months on heavily used PT. Still works just don't use that PT anymore.

We are probably just talking in circles.
 

boomer2506

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I hate the silicone and the rubber.I drill out my connectors and add a nylon sleeve.than replace the center contact with a copper nail.
 

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