510 Passthroughs!!!
- Thread starter vaporich
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Of course ac adapters are also a solution.
But, I can tell ya, that the passthrough get the 5 volts.
I have tested it.
USB outputs 5 volts.
I did the mod, and my laptop works just fine.
Thats the beauty of the passthrough, most of us are on the computer typing all day long as it is.
ANyway, the hub is another option.
I have a car adapter to USB, so I can use my passthrough in my car also.
Works pretty darn good too.
By reattaching the wires, all I meant was attach them how you want.
ALl I did, was electrical tape mine,
U can solder them,
U can use some wire nuts,
DO it however you like.
As far as burning the port out,
I havent had any problems, period.
But, I can tell ya, that the passthrough get the 5 volts.
I have tested it.
USB outputs 5 volts.
I did the mod, and my laptop works just fine.
Thats the beauty of the passthrough, most of us are on the computer typing all day long as it is.
ANyway, the hub is another option.
I have a car adapter to USB, so I can use my passthrough in my car also.
Works pretty darn good too.
By reattaching the wires, all I meant was attach them how you want.
ALl I did, was electrical tape mine,
U can solder them,
U can use some wire nuts,
DO it however you like.
As far as burning the port out,
I havent had any problems, period.
Vaporich, you've been using this for about a week? I had (and have) no doubts that this would work, but have you seen any type of atty problems at all? I kept putting it off, but I've hardly used my PT at all because it's really not as good as a normal fully-charged battery, but I'm probably gonna go ahead with it. I know my PT for the 4081 kicks.
Yes fine your computer was OK but I have heard of folks burning their computer out!! That's a bit worrying to say the least, it probably wont happen, but probably is not good enough for me at the moment!!
I do have an older computer I could test on, I would be happy to try it on there first.
Anyhow obviously yours worked I am not sure how you tested it though, did you test it whilst you were actually vaping?
The official specification for the USB port is rather odd in that it says it can have different current levels of 100mA and 500mA, none of these, IMO should be enough to vape well.
I do have a suspicion that the USB ports may not have a sophisticated current control on them, I suspect they are simply connected to the 5v power rail and that is it!!
Anyway I am in no hurry as I have not switched to vaping yet!!
By the way when you say 'the mod' do you mean removing the battey from the 510 pass and using it direct?
Does you passthrough have a battery in it?
If so it you would expect it to be as good as a fully charged battery wouldm't you? I would check the voltage when you press the button and see what you are getting, I would also check the voltage when it is not connected to a load (the atty) that might give some clues.
Well I'm in the UK I don't think we have Radio Shack here anyway that gave me some ideas for google and I found this on ebay 5v 2 amp DC supply which is the sort of thing I am looking for, very cheap too at £3.50 but then they whack on £5 for postage
Aslo this one which is pretty much the same £6 including p&p.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UK-Plug-Power...s_SM?hash=item58833b9e5d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Last edited:
Shadow - I bought 8 of these about a month ago when Warp posted about them. Can I just cut out the battery box on my passthroughs, strip the wires on that plug (cutting off the adapter end) and use one of the splice connectors to join it and then plug my passthrough directly into the wall then?
TIA
HAH
Powered hub may/may not work. I'd try to find something like a phone charger that has a USB port on it - just make sure it can supply at least 1 amp.
Actually, if and when I do remove my battery, I won't be using the PT on the computer. I use a Kensington power pack that supplies at least 1A. You can find quite a few posts about them here on the forum.
I've been meaning to do that and just haven't yet.
I've been meaning to do that and just haven't yet.
I have tested the voltage on the passthrough received normally with battery still in the line, and it read at 3.4. That is less than a regular battery.
When modding it, Yes, I mean removing the "stupid" battery in the center of the line.
Its only function is too cut the power down on it, I dont know why they made it that way.
Anyway, cut it out.
Strip your wires, then burn the colored epoxy wires, to get to the copper,
Re attach the copper wires, with e. tape, or however you like.
It definitely is stronger than a regular battery.
The 901 and 801 passthroughs I have come already straight lined. NO cut off battery in them, so they too, are vaping aroun 4.5 volts.
Something right around there.
The point is the passthroughs, are definitely stronger than the regular batteries, and they last longer than the batteries too. SO all in all, there worth it.
When modding it, Yes, I mean removing the "stupid" battery in the center of the line.
Its only function is too cut the power down on it, I dont know why they made it that way.
Anyway, cut it out.
Strip your wires, then burn the colored epoxy wires, to get to the copper,
Re attach the copper wires, with e. tape, or however you like.
It definitely is stronger than a regular battery.
The 901 and 801 passthroughs I have come already straight lined. NO cut off battery in them, so they too, are vaping aroun 4.5 volts.
Something right around there.
The point is the passthroughs, are definitely stronger than the regular batteries, and they last longer than the batteries too. SO all in all, there worth it.
It should work fine, but be sure to test because if connected backwards the switch will be allways on and could burn up quickly as mine did. I just used the connecter on a box mod after toasting my switch.
Beg pardon?
Please explain how the polarity of the voltage would have anything to do with the operation of a momentary contact switch.
Please explain how the polarity of the voltage would have anything to do with the operation of a momentary contact switch.
Depending on the type of switch it is - if it has 4 leads rather than 2, like the small board switches, etc. - you can in theory wire one up 'backwards' so to speak - to where you have constant voltage and is bypassing the switching mechanism basically. I assume this is most likely what occured. On some of those switches attempting to use the switch while wired up incorrectly can damage the switch and render it useless as well.
EDIT: This has nothing to do with polarity actually - just wiring - and could easily be interpreted as polarity or other issues.
Take care,
- Hap
Can you provide a schematic showing polarity markings on one of these switches? I don't recall ever seeing any, but I could certainly be wrong.
Listen, There are only two wires.
U dont need schematics.
IF i spelled that right.
When you strip the wires, u seperate them, there are two wires,
When stripped, they have an epoxy covering the main copper wire,
ONe epoxy is green,, one is purple,
U must burn the epoxy off. when you reattach, make sure,
U reattach the the copper wire that was green, to the other copper wire that was green.
U just have to keep track of them, its really not that hard at all.
U can do it!!
Make sure to connect the wires good though.
I just used elecrical tape.
U dont need schematics.
IF i spelled that right.
When you strip the wires, u seperate them, there are two wires,
When stripped, they have an epoxy covering the main copper wire,
ONe epoxy is green,, one is purple,
U must burn the epoxy off. when you reattach, make sure,
U reattach the the copper wire that was green, to the other copper wire that was green.
U just have to keep track of them, its really not that hard at all.
U can do it!!
Make sure to connect the wires good though.
I just used elecrical tape.
We were talking about the tact switch, Rich. I made my own passthrough a couple months ago.
And, that's insulation on the wires, not epoxy.
And, that's insulation on the wires, not epoxy.
Last edited:
Whatever, same thing.
Whoever taught me how to do it online, called it epoxy.
Same difference, insulation, epoxy,
U know what Im referring to.
ANd what switch are u guys talking about.
The one on the battery, that you plug the atomizer into??
Thats the only switch on the passthrough correct.
Whoever taught me how to do it online, called it epoxy.
Same difference, insulation, epoxy,
U know what Im referring to.
ANd what switch are u guys talking about.
The one on the battery, that you plug the atomizer into??
Thats the only switch on the passthrough correct.
I have a nicostick that I have converted to operate as a pass through. It works very well but I am losing some of the voltage due to the connectectors and the 28 guage wire of the USB cable. It doesn't take much resistance to cause a voltage drop. With the tack switch not depressed (no load on the circuit) I get a full 5 volts at the input of the tack switch. When I push the switch the voltage drops to 3.8v (circuit under load). It's easy to make these measurements with the nicostick but harder to do with one of the regular Joye-510 pass through.
The Joye-510 pass through I had was a piece of junk. I cut it up for parts. For the 510 the best pass through is the puresmoker pass through.
Using your PC should be done with caution. A good pass through will normally pull slightly over 1.5 amps. A cheap PC or an older one (with USB 1.1 ports) may receive damage from over driving the USB port. I have used mine on several PC's but I don't do it as a general rule. I have several Kensington power packs. I ususally connect the pass through to the Kensington and then connect the kensington to the PC usb port. This circuit is exactly what a pass through is designed to look like. You draw from the battery while recharging the battery through the USB port.
Kevin
The Joye-510 pass through I had was a piece of junk. I cut it up for parts. For the 510 the best pass through is the puresmoker pass through.
Using your PC should be done with caution. A good pass through will normally pull slightly over 1.5 amps. A cheap PC or an older one (with USB 1.1 ports) may receive damage from over driving the USB port. I have used mine on several PC's but I don't do it as a general rule. I have several Kensington power packs. I ususally connect the pass through to the Kensington and then connect the kensington to the PC usb port. This circuit is exactly what a pass through is designed to look like. You draw from the battery while recharging the battery through the USB port.
Kevin
- Status
Similar threads
