510 threading

[Zutankhamun]

Hi all. I have been advised by many members that keeping your tanks on your regulated devices obviously increases the longevity of your threading. Seems to make sense.

Kinda would like opposite opinions on the matter. When your using your mechs you have to remove the tank/rba more often for various reasons.

Do the people who have and use authentic mechs all of the time find their threading stripping often compared to somebody who uses a reg and never/rarely removes their topper?

Seems an obvious answer but just wondered about people's experiences.

Thanks

 

[daviedog]

Only my istick 20 threads crapped out.
On a mech it is easy to replace top cap/ positive pin..

 

[pwheeler]

I've never stripped a 510. Not in a mod, mech or reg, nor the 510 on any atty or tank. I know it's a possibility,and I guess I've been lucky. I always remove my tanks to refill, and my atties, every time I need to rewick. Any threads are good for so long, and I'm always careful not to over tighten or cross thread.

Sent from my HTC Desire Eye using Tapatalk

 

[Firestorm]

On a mech it is easy to replace top cap/ positive pin..

Maybe if you have a spare top cap or positive pin. That statement is too general, and I do not agree with it.

If the threads on this GP Paps v4 top cap (made of 316 European SS) were stripped or cross-threaded, please tell me how you would go about easily fixing it.

 

[Lessifer]

I don't quite understand why you would need to remove a topper more often on a mech than on a regulated device, except maybe to check resistance, if you're rebuilding often.

As for threads, the only ones that ever stripped on me were on my old VAMO v2 and that's because the pin wasn't adjustable so there was often a gap between atomizer and top of the vamo, and removing a top cap from an atomizer can make it "wobble" stripping the threads.

So I'd suggest looking for adjustable pins so you can properly seat atomizers, and SS 510 threads.

 

[Zutankhamun]

Hey @Lessifer you're right in some respects but because of what you said checking res means it's not set it and forget it. Also us newbs like to check res more often to be safe. Like after refilling. Also changing batteries at either end means the threading has slight stress. The magnets on regs aren't a bother really.

 

[Lessifer]

Hey @Lessifer you're right in some respects but because of what you said checking res means it's not set it and forget it. Also us newbs like to check res more often to be safe. Like after refilling. Also changing batteries at either end means the threading has slight stress. The magnets on regs aren't a bother really.

well, that's assuming you meant regs with battery door. My mech REO has a sliding battery door.

In any case, I don't think it's the threading on/off of the atomizer that is the usual culprit for stripping(unless you jump the threads), but it's usually the pulling on/off of top caps and bumps that cause the atomizer to tweak while threaded on. Just speculation on my part though.

 

[Zutankhamun]

Oh yeah, Reo. Good idea. Cool, so as long as I'm safe don't drop and/or crossthread, should be fine. Cheers. Buying some extra bits from Gus anyway but at £25 a switch or topcap just wanna be sure.

 

[anavidfan]

Only problems I could see in threading would be on inexpensive devices that are made with lower quality stainless steel ( less than 304 ) and atties that have subpar threading or roughly machined threads that would wear the threads on your devices 510 connection.

What always worries me are the tube mechs that have brass, copper and other softer metals. I know that is why some manufacturers will only make the tube in the softer metals and not the top caps and switches in anything other than good stainless.

Have those that own those all copper, brass etc, softer metal mech tubes found wear in the threads?

 

[anavidfan]

Oh yeah, Reo. Good idea. Cool, so as long as I'm safe don't drop and/or crossthread, should be fine. Cheers. Buying some extra bits from Gus anyway but at £25 a switch or topcap just wanna be sure.

If you use GUS or GP , I dont think you have to worry about wearing the threads unless you really crank those atties on. I have some GP mechs that I bought used , I mean really, really used, and the threads are still perfect. GUS also makes great devices and recently got gifted an old and well used 18350 and other than surface scuffs, the little thing is perfect.

I know there are other manufacturers out there that make amazing tube mechs and their owners have similar results. Those are the little details that make an outstanding device that you can have around for years and years.

 

[anavidfan]

Speaking of threads, and please forgive me if , I dont think this will derail the thread, but Ive read on some of the threads that people will use a fine grit to sand the threads when they get a new high end device to avoid problems with cross threading or wear?

Has anyone heard of this or done this? Is it really necessary and how do you do it ?

 

[wiredlove]

Speaking of threads, and please forgive me if , I dont think this will derail the thread, but Ive read on some of the threads that people will use a fine grit to sand the threads when they get a new high end device to avoid problems with cross threading or wear?

Has anyone heard of this or done this? Is it really necessary and how do you do it ?

I've never heard of that. I do lube my threads with no-ox-id-a.

Amazon.com: NO-OX-ID Compound - Electrically Conductive Grease - 8oz Tube: Home Audio & Theater

and have had to run an m7x.5 tap on some threads on some cheaper clones to clean them up.

 

[Zutankhamun]

Thanks for the advice anavidfan, I don't like the sound of sanding my mod. But gotta have a look at GP. Keep forgetting.
As this thread evolves can some people tell me about some good companies comparable to GP & Gus please? I want a new one, and some money.
Not in that order

 

[anavidfan]

MCR and JM MODs are also good ones, but their 510 positive design, works, its beautifully made , but after getting used to the GP Gpin, it almost seems primitive.

There are some amazing mechs in the classifieds lately. Some at given away prices.

I like JM, GP and GUS because all the parts are compatible. I often mix and match them for unique and custom looks.

 

[daviedog]

Maybe if you have a spare top cap or positive pin. That statement is too general, and I do not agree with it.

If the threads on this GP Paps v4 top cap (made of 316 European SS) were stripped or cross-threaded, please tell me how you would go about easily fixing it.

I didn't say easy to fix, i said easy to replace..