whats up everyone? just got back from work and decided i needed to try 6v. both of my batteries are charged, they are ultra fire 16340 (rcr123a) 880 mah. i throw them in the chuck and it doesn't respond at all. i've tried putting a dime in between them to see if that would solidify the connection, no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
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if it isn't the atty it could be that those batteries aren't really sufficient...
I'm gonna take a shot in the dark and guess that this is a 510 atty?
why I say it might be insufficient batteries is that 6v with a 2.2Ω atty you're trying to draw 2.73A (even worse at full charge that's more like 6.4V so with that atty the amp draw is 2.9A)
the max discharge rating on the ultrafires is 1.32A...so what could be happening is that when you're hitting the button you're actually tripping the over discharge part of the PCB in the batteries (I'm also assuming that they are protected)
I'm gonna take a shot in the dark and guess that this is a 510 atty?
why I say it might be insufficient batteries is that 6v with a 2.2Ω atty you're trying to draw 2.73A (even worse at full charge that's more like 6.4V so with that atty the amp draw is 2.9A)
the max discharge rating on the ultrafires is 1.32A...so what could be happening is that when you're hitting the button you're actually tripping the over discharge part of the PCB in the batteries (I'm also assuming that they are protected)
yep, ive tried 3 different attys, no luck
Hmm. I did have that happen once on my V2. Someone told me that sometimes a bad atty can trip the protection thingamajig. Threw it in the charger, and it reset the doohicky... and worked fine.
I don't suppose you have another set of batteries to try?
If that doesn't work, there might be a chance the switch is wonky or a lead came loose from the switch... I'm guessing thats what happened to Durachuck when I sent him back.
Let someone else chime in with the resetting of the battery, I had no problems but I'd feel bad if I gave you bunk advice and you blew your face off.
EDIT: Listen to Droidz.. .he noze stuff.
so my batteries are just garbage? ill try throwing them on the charger again waffle. i dont think its the switch, it works fine at 3.7?
Yeah, try and reset them on the charger. If the chuck is working fine at 3.7V, the only difference is the batteries themselves. If the protection circuit kicked in, even on one of the two batteries, it won't allow current flow through and you'd be DOA.
Don't pitch 'em until you try a reset. (And if they don't reset, try a different charger, it could be shorted out, too.)
Don't pitch 'em until you try a reset. (And if they don't reset, try a different charger, it could be shorted out, too.)
do the rc123as hold there charge? I just threw them back on the charger and the light is a steady red
Garbage...not exactly...what is happening is that you're far exceeding the capability of the batteries and the discharge rating
like I said you calculate the max discharge rating of the battery by taking the mAh rating and multipying by the battery's C rating and deviding by 1000.. so ultrafires (which ave a C rating of 1.5) at 880mAh have a max discharge rating of 1.3A...
now your amp draw is calculated by Voltage divided by resistance of the atty so 6V/2.3Ω =2.6A (at full charge thats 6.4V/2.3Ω= 2.8A)...so you're trying to pull twice what the max discharge rating is and it's causing them to trip..
Now...lets say you got a HV atomizer like a 4.5Ω .... the amp draw would be at 1.3A...right at the discharge rating but not enough to trip it..but the stress on them would severely cut into their longevity...
Yes..you're kinda limited with what you can do with those batteries to get good results...
BTW ...if you could get them to work you'd be pushing 15.7W of heat from the atty which is gonna be pretty burnt tasting...so you're not missing a whole lot...
Best is what end result are you trying to get?...and we can give you best options
So i will NEED HV attys to vape at 6v without tripping my batteries and setting off the protection? I'm just trying to experience the 6v vaping that everyone seems to enjoy. I figured i could do it with the regular 510 attys, but would have to take it much easier on them.
Please don't put a dime spacer in there. It will short out the battery closest to the battery cap when the dime eventually comes in contact with the copper tube. Best case scenario when this happens is that it will trip your protection circuit on that battery. Worst case... well lets not go there.nevermind, just turned green. time to try again
thank you ralph. I'm gonna do some more research and then continue on my 6v journey, i thought i gathered enough while waiting for my chuck, but i obviously haven't. thanks everyone
By the way for me...if I were looking for a combination between best battery life and vapor production I'd go with either:
a 18650 AW IMR high drain 3.7V battery with a low resistance (1.5Ω) 510 atty...
this will give 9.13W of heat..2.7A draw requirement but a 16V max draw rate on the battery...
or 2x 16340 AW IMR high drain 3.7V batteries with a HV 510 atty (5.2Ω)...
10.53W of heat...1.4A draw requirement but a max amp draw but a 4.4A max draw rate on the batteries
so face melting goodness on either of those options
EDIT: actually any of the 18650 batteries will work really well with a low resistance atty..
It's not so much the voltage as it is the wattage (heat) produced that falls in that so called "sweet spot"...with that sweet spot commonly being between 8-10W ...the higher the Wattage the more vapor and warmer the vapor..
a 18650 AW IMR high drain 3.7V battery with a low resistance (1.5Ω) 510 atty...
this will give 9.13W of heat..2.7A draw requirement but a 16V max draw rate on the battery...
or 2x 16340 AW IMR high drain 3.7V batteries with a HV 510 atty (5.2Ω)...
10.53W of heat...1.4A draw requirement but a max amp draw but a 4.4A max draw rate on the batteries
so face melting goodness on either of those options
EDIT: actually any of the 18650 batteries will work really well with a low resistance atty..
It's not so much the voltage as it is the wattage (heat) produced that falls in that so called "sweet spot"...with that sweet spot commonly being between 8-10W ...the higher the Wattage the more vapor and warmer the vapor..
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There def 3.0v. i got them from madvapes. the 18650 is working awesome tho, so i'm not too bummed out
They are out of stock here but find and buy some of these and you'll be a happy camper.
Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - 6 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4 Rechargeable Batteries with a Smart Charger -Specials
Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - 6 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4 Rechargeable Batteries with a Smart Charger -Specials
those'll work...and there's no PCB in them to trip since you'll be far exceeding their max discharge rate (stated as <.55A) ...but they're safe chemistry...so they shouldn't explode, they'll just meet the end of their serviceable life sooner...just watch em carefully...
+1 on what Drozd says here
Also, when the charger light turns green, take them out of the charger. These chargers are stopping at ~3.9 V, instead of 3.6 like they are supposed to. Dont think the higher voltage will harm the battery. Probably just shorten the life span.
Drozd, did you really mean two 3.7v batteries? Just checking...I haven't attempted anything higher than 6v. I was under the impression it wasn't a good idea.
Is there a Chuck review on these batteries:
UltraFire 880 mAh Protected Rechargeable Battery RCR123a Compatible
I thought I saw one but can't find it now.
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