Absolutely. I'm gonna do a dual micro build on the origin v2 for her here. I've never done one before (tutorial) but since I've been vaping maybe 5 months I would like to do it in a way that would have been helpful to me starting out.
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I want to rebuild coils on my smok tech dripper RDA
And I would like to rebuild my smoktech bottom coils, and iclear16 coils. I use my tanks with my 900mah smok tech battery, 900mah smok tech ARO battery, and my vv/vw smoktech SID
Ok I'm working on your tutorial now. I'm building for cotton. The difference is with cotton you build your coils and feed the cotton through and with other materials you build the coil around the material. Because cotton burns if too tight even when wet and with other materials you can even dry fire the coils without burning it. Having Said that you can adjust that part of the tutorial for the silica.I have kanthal A1 Wire, 30 gauge
and
Ekowool hollow Silica cord, 2mm
Ok I'm about to post it here. Its long but hopefully useful to new builders. I'm no expert. Don't laugh.
I didnt realize you werent building on a dripper, etc., so this tutorial is for that, but building the coils and up to the installation all applies.
So, here is my kit, and to the left are the tools I will need for this build.
I will be building dual coils on an Origen V2 clone. I am using the ohm meter, previously checked for calibration by also testing attys on a multi-meter and on my vv mod that reads the atty when you screw it in.
As a beginner, you will do well to get an app on your cell called vapers toolbox. It will help you build perfect coils every time. Seriously. There are multiple screens for multiple inputs. Here is what one screen looks like.
Also, I use a website to calculate the mm of the drill bits Im using. Its a conversion chart from fractions to mm, and you need mm to input into vapers toolbox. I like this website for conversion (Ive tried a few). http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm Vapers toolbox allows you to ender the gauge of your wire, the mm of the wrapping utility and the desired ohms rating to get the wraps you will need. (There are lots of other functions of it, but thats the basics.)
So, for wire, I have 26, 28 and 30g. The lower the ohms, the fewer the wraps. But the thicker the wire the longer it takes to heat up. 30g is thinner and harder to wrap, but really good for building coils on botton coil atomizers like found on Kanger tanks at higher ohm ratings. The opening in the hardware to insert the coil is much smaller than the type of room you have on a dripper, auto dripper or RBA deck, so I keep 30g around for that, as they make smaller coils. 28g is my typical use and works well for any ohms range. And 26g is super easy to wrap and great for sub ohming .but because of the thickness it takes a bit longer to heat up even at subs. Because of this, I use it primarily for single coil rba/rda builds. For the purpose of this build, Im using 28g wrapped on a little screwdriver that measures about 5/64 if it were a .drill bit with a target of 1.0ohms, dual coil. The little screwdrivers are nice because the edge of the handle helps keep the coil on. I dont like 1/16 drill bit coils. They annoy me. I have an Innokin SVD variable voltage that contrary to popular belief, will let me fire below 1.5 ohms (its let me go as low at .7 so far). .I will be using 1mm organic cotton pre-braided wick (like in a candle) because its super easy to thread through the origens vertical coils (you can do horizontal but mine wicks fine verticle) and easy to stuff into the wells. I also have in stock 2mm prebraided organic cotton and organic cotton fluffy cotton. They all have preferred uses. IF YOU ARE BUILDING on silica or what not, you will be wrapping your coil directly around the silica AND the drill bit (or whatever). .
Now, for dual coils, remember that you have to double the ohms for each coil because the energy is being taken from both coils thereby cutting it in half for each. I.e. my target is 1.0, so Im going to be building coils that read 2.0 ohms each. In put those targets into vapers toolbox (or similar app for your phone) and it will tell you how many wraps you need. Using the conversion chart, I input 1.9844mm (drill bit size) into the app, along with 2.0 ohms target and 28g wire it tells me: Your coil should use a .12/11 wrap to get as close as possible . Itll also tell you how much wire to cut but I always cut more. So here we go!! Im going to be building microcoils, i.e. the coil is compressed so all loops are touching. This increases surface area for the juice the heat up and you get better results. Dont worry, non-micros work fine too!
Here is a 12/11 wrap coil on the screwdriver. I am leaving long tails because I know the way the Origen builds its helpful to have longer tails as they connect by wrapping around the posts, as opposed to threading through holes. Heres 2 coils, one on the bit one off. I totally didnt do these pretty, or close together, but that can be fixed.
I used standard nail clippers to clip the wire. Cheap and affective. Get the wraps as close together as you can, squeeze the coil. Then well work on the micro part.
So now to fix them into micros. This can be done a number of ways. First, Im going to pinch the coils in pliers or tweezers, and straight as possible, and hit it with a cheap torch until they heat red for a few seconds. Remove the heat and you get a compressed coil. May need to do a couple times. Alternately, you can put the coils as is on the atomizer, heat them up to test them and right after they turn red, cut the power and quickly pinch them on the atty with tweezers. Works just as well.
Using some kind of tool to set the coil helps tremendously, but its not always necessary. I need to center my coils over the wells on my atty. Doesnt need to be, people do it different ways, I just like things symmetrical.. Took me about 2 minutes to install these, straighten them with the twist of an inserted tool, clip the excess wire with your clippers (AT THIS POINT, IF YOURE BUILDING THE ATTY YOU SHOWED PICTURES OF WITH SILICA, JUST STABALIZE THE COIL IN THE CHANNEL HOLDING ONTO THE TAILS OF THE SILICA, DONT LET ANY OF THE WIRES TOUCH ONE ANOTHER INSIDE THE CHANNEL. Take the rubber grommet and pin out of the bottom beforehand. Stick the tails through the channel with the rubber grommet hovering out there. One leg goes through the grommet, the other between the grommet and the metal channel. Squeeze the channel in, then put the pin in, then clip the wires. Do this with your drill bit or wound wick firmly in place so theres no slack.)
Well, I mashed the coils on accident, but the reading is pretty darn close, so Im going to go with it.
A quick test on the SVD, which is reading 1.0, so yes!!!!
And it fires! Woot!
I thread about 3 inches of my 1mm cotton through the coils, first wetting the ends in my mouth to make sure it goes in, then clipping that part off after to avoid taint. Put the arch on top to the side of the positive pin or it will clog the hole, and drop my wicks down into the wells.
Soak it up/prime it, fill it, align the holes to the coils and vape on dude!
.
So, here is my kit, and to the left are the tools I will need for this build.
I will be building dual coils on an Origen V2 clone. I am using the ohm meter, previously checked for calibration by also testing attys on a multi-meter and on my vv mod that reads the atty when you screw it in.
As a beginner, you will do well to get an app on your cell called vapers toolbox. It will help you build perfect coils every time. Seriously. There are multiple screens for multiple inputs. Here is what one screen looks like.
Also, I use a website to calculate the mm of the drill bits Im using. Its a conversion chart from fractions to mm, and you need mm to input into vapers toolbox. I like this website for conversion (Ive tried a few). http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm Vapers toolbox allows you to ender the gauge of your wire, the mm of the wrapping utility and the desired ohms rating to get the wraps you will need. (There are lots of other functions of it, but thats the basics.)
So, for wire, I have 26, 28 and 30g. The lower the ohms, the fewer the wraps. But the thicker the wire the longer it takes to heat up. 30g is thinner and harder to wrap, but really good for building coils on botton coil atomizers like found on Kanger tanks at higher ohm ratings. The opening in the hardware to insert the coil is much smaller than the type of room you have on a dripper, auto dripper or RBA deck, so I keep 30g around for that, as they make smaller coils. 28g is my typical use and works well for any ohms range. And 26g is super easy to wrap and great for sub ohming .but because of the thickness it takes a bit longer to heat up even at subs. Because of this, I use it primarily for single coil rba/rda builds. For the purpose of this build, Im using 28g wrapped on a little screwdriver that measures about 5/64 if it were a .drill bit with a target of 1.0ohms, dual coil. The little screwdrivers are nice because the edge of the handle helps keep the coil on. I dont like 1/16 drill bit coils. They annoy me. I have an Innokin SVD variable voltage that contrary to popular belief, will let me fire below 1.5 ohms (its let me go as low at .7 so far). .I will be using 1mm organic cotton pre-braided wick (like in a candle) because its super easy to thread through the origens vertical coils (you can do horizontal but mine wicks fine verticle) and easy to stuff into the wells. I also have in stock 2mm prebraided organic cotton and organic cotton fluffy cotton. They all have preferred uses. IF YOU ARE BUILDING on silica or what not, you will be wrapping your coil directly around the silica AND the drill bit (or whatever). .
Now, for dual coils, remember that you have to double the ohms for each coil because the energy is being taken from both coils thereby cutting it in half for each. I.e. my target is 1.0, so Im going to be building coils that read 2.0 ohms each. In put those targets into vapers toolbox (or similar app for your phone) and it will tell you how many wraps you need. Using the conversion chart, I input 1.9844mm (drill bit size) into the app, along with 2.0 ohms target and 28g wire it tells me: Your coil should use a .12/11 wrap to get as close as possible . Itll also tell you how much wire to cut but I always cut more. So here we go!! Im going to be building microcoils, i.e. the coil is compressed so all loops are touching. This increases surface area for the juice the heat up and you get better results. Dont worry, non-micros work fine too!
Here is a 12/11 wrap coil on the screwdriver. I am leaving long tails because I know the way the Origen builds its helpful to have longer tails as they connect by wrapping around the posts, as opposed to threading through holes. Heres 2 coils, one on the bit one off. I totally didnt do these pretty, or close together, but that can be fixed.
I used standard nail clippers to clip the wire. Cheap and affective. Get the wraps as close together as you can, squeeze the coil. Then well work on the micro part.
So now to fix them into micros. This can be done a number of ways. First, Im going to pinch the coils in pliers or tweezers, and straight as possible, and hit it with a cheap torch until they heat red for a few seconds. Remove the heat and you get a compressed coil. May need to do a couple times. Alternately, you can put the coils as is on the atomizer, heat them up to test them and right after they turn red, cut the power and quickly pinch them on the atty with tweezers. Works just as well.
Using some kind of tool to set the coil helps tremendously, but its not always necessary. I need to center my coils over the wells on my atty. Doesnt need to be, people do it different ways, I just like things symmetrical.. Took me about 2 minutes to install these, straighten them with the twist of an inserted tool, clip the excess wire with your clippers (AT THIS POINT, IF YOURE BUILDING THE ATTY YOU SHOWED PICTURES OF WITH SILICA, JUST STABALIZE THE COIL IN THE CHANNEL HOLDING ONTO THE TAILS OF THE SILICA, DONT LET ANY OF THE WIRES TOUCH ONE ANOTHER INSIDE THE CHANNEL. Take the rubber grommet and pin out of the bottom beforehand. Stick the tails through the channel with the rubber grommet hovering out there. One leg goes through the grommet, the other between the grommet and the metal channel. Squeeze the channel in, then put the pin in, then clip the wires. Do this with your drill bit or wound wick firmly in place so theres no slack.)
Well, I mashed the coils on accident, but the reading is pretty darn close, so Im going to go with it.
A quick test on the SVD, which is reading 1.0, so yes!!!!
I thread about 3 inches of my 1mm cotton through the coils, first wetting the ends in my mouth to make sure it goes in, then clipping that part off after to avoid taint. Put the arch on top to the side of the positive pin or it will clog the hole, and drop my wicks down into the wells.
Soak it up/prime it, fill it, align the holes to the coils and vape on dude!
.
Last edited:
Thank you! That helps so much!!I didnt realize you werent building on a dripper, etc., so this tutorial is for that, but building the coils and up to the installation all applies.
So, here is my kit, and to the left are the tools I will need for this build.
I will be building dual coils on an Origen V2 clone. I am using the ohm meter, previously checked for calibration by also testing attys on a multi-meter and on my vv mod that reads the atty when you screw it in.
As a beginner, you will do well to get an app on your cell called vapers toolbox. It will help you build perfect coils every time. Seriously. There are multiple screens for multiple inputs. Here is what one screen looks like.
Also, I use a website to calculate the mm of the drill bits Im using. Its a conversion chart from fractions to mm, and you need mm to input into vapers toolbox. I like this website for conversion (Ive tried a few). http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm Vapers toolbox allows you to ender the gauge of your wire, the mm of the wrapping utility and the desired ohms rating to get the wraps you will need. (There are lots of other functions of it, but thats the basics.)
So, for wire, I have 26, 28 and 30g. The lower the ohms, the fewer the wraps. But the thicker the wire the longer it takes to heat up. 30g is thinner and harder to wrap, but really good for building coils on botton coil atomizers like found on Kanger tanks at higher ohm ratings. The opening in the hardware to insert the coil is much smaller than the type of room you have on a dripper, auto dripper or RBA deck, so I keep 30g around for that, as they make smaller coils. 28g is my typical use and works well for any ohms range. And 26g is super easy to wrap and great for sub ohming .but because of the thickness it takes a bit longer to heat up even at subs. Because of this, I use it primarily for single coil rba/rda builds. For the purpose of this build, Im using 28g wrapped on a little screwdriver that measures about 5/64 if it were a .drill bit with a target of 1.0ohms, dual coil. The little screwdrivers are nice because the edge of the handle helps keep the coil on. I dont like 1/16 drill bit coils. They annoy me. I have an Innokin SVD variable voltage that contrary to popular belief, will let me fire below 1.5 ohms (its let me go as low at .7 so far). .I will be using 1mm organic cotton pre-braided wick (like in a candle) because its super easy to thread through the origens vertical coils (you can do horizontal but mine wicks fine verticle) and easy to stuff into the wells. I also have in stock 2mm prebraided organic cotton and organic cotton fluffy cotton. They all have preferred uses. IF YOU ARE BUILDING on silica or what not, you will be wrapping your coil directly around the silica AND the drill bit (or whatever). .
Now, for dual coils, remember that you have to double the ohms for each coil because the energy is being taken from both coils thereby cutting it in half for each. I.e. my target is 1.0, so Im going to be building coils that read 2.0 ohms each. In put those targets into vapers toolbox (or similar app for your phone) and it will tell you how many wraps you need. Using the conversion chart, I input 1.9844mm (drill bit size) into the app, along with 2.0 ohms target and 28g wire it tells me: Your coil should use a .12/11 wrap to get as close as possible . Itll also tell you how much wire to cut but I always cut more. So here we go!! Im going to be building microcoils, i.e. the coil is compressed so all loops are touching. This increases surface area for the juice the heat up and you get better results. Dont worry, non-micros work fine too!
Here is a 12/11 wrap coil on the screwdriver. I am leaving long tails because I know the way the Origen builds its helpful to have longer tails as they connect by wrapping around the posts, as opposed to threading through holes. Heres 2 coils, one on the bit one off. I totally didnt do these pretty, or close together, but that can be fixed.
I used standard nail clippers to clip the wire. Cheap and affective. Get the wraps as close together as you can, squeeze the coil. Then well work on the micro part.
So now to fix them into micros. This can be done a number of ways. First, Im going to pinch the coils in pliers or tweezers, and straight as possible, and hit it with a cheap torch until they heat red for a few seconds. Remove the heat and you get a compressed coil. May need to do a couple times. Alternately, you can put the coils as is on the atomizer, heat them up to test them and right after they turn red, cut the power and quickly pinch them on the atty with tweezers. Works just as well.
Using some kind of tool to set the coil helps tremendously, but its not always necessary. I need to center my coils over the wells on my atty. Doesnt need to be, people do it different ways, I just like things symmetrical.. Took me about 2 minutes to install these, straighten them with the twist of an inserted tool, clip the excess wire with your clippers (AT THIS POINT, IF YOURE BUILDING THE ATTY YOU SHOWED PICTURES OF WITH SILICA, JUST STABALIZE THE COIL IN THE CHANNEL HOLDING ONTO THE TAILS OF THE SILICA, DONT LET ANY OF THE WIRES TOUCH ONE ANOTHER INSIDE THE CHANNEL. Take the rubber grommet and pin out of the bottom beforehand. Stick the tails through the channel with the rubber grommet hovering out there. One leg goes through the grommet, the other between the grommet and the metal channel. Squeeze the channel in, then put the pin in, then clip the wires. Do this with your drill bit or wound wick firmly in place so theres no slack.)
Well, I mashed the coils on accident, but the reading is pretty darn close, so Im going to go with it.
A quick test on the SVD, which is reading 1.0, so yes!!!!And it fires! Woot!
I thread about 3 inches of my 1mm cotton through the coils, first wetting the ends in my mouth to make sure it goes in, then clipping that part off after to avoid taint. Put the arch on top to the side of the positive pin or it will clog the hole, and drop my wicks down into the wells.
Soak it up/prime it, fill it, align the holes to the coils and vape on dude!
.
Nice pictorial dykealiscious!
Here's a little addition that may help you and others. This mandrel makes things SO easy. Several sizes to choose from, plus a nice shoulder to rest one end of the coil as you wrap it.
It comes with a big one and a small one; the big one is not really useful AFAICT.
Here's a little addition that may help you and others. This mandrel makes things SO easy. Several sizes to choose from, plus a nice shoulder to rest one end of the coil as you wrap it.
It comes with a big one and a small one; the big one is not really useful AFAICT.
Nice. I worry that the jump between mm is too large?Nice pictorial dykealiscious!
Here's a little addition that may help you and others. This mandrel makes things SO easy. Several sizes to choose from, plus a nice shoulder to rest one end of the coil as you wrap it.
It comes with a big one and a small one; the big one is not really useful AFAICT.
1.5mm (.059"), 2.0mm (.079"), 3.0mm (.118"), 4.0mm (.157"), and 5.0mm (.197") on the smaller mandrel. Although I measured them and they are slightly undersized. For example, the 3mm is actually 2.8mm (.110"), which to me is no biggie.
So, my first successful coil is 1.5 ohms! Yay! I was wanting between 1.8 and 2.4 , but after 3 unsuccesses of .9 and two that were too low to register, I was happy to get a 1.5. I rebuilt a smok tech bottom coil. I used a 1/16 drill bit, kanthal A1 wire 30 gauge, and I wrapped I think 11 times (so many attempts I cannot temember if it was 11 or 12). If I wanted to use my ekowool hollow silica cord, 2mm and wanted a coil at 1.8 ohms and another at 2.4 ohms; what should I wrap around and how many wraps for each. I am wanting to do this for a smok tech bottom coil if that matters. I have looked over the information everywhere, but I am the type of person when it comes to certain things if someone tells me exactly what to do or shows me I get it instantly. Thanks guys!
Nice job Ducky.
Hey, if you don't have a smart phone to install Vaper's Toolbox on, THIS works really well too.
Hey, if you don't have a smart phone to install Vaper's Toolbox on, THIS works really well too.
Thanks! I installed it on my tablet, but I have not fully understood it yet. Does it tell how many wraps to make and on what size instrument im wrapping on? I did not catch that if it was on thereNice job Ducky.
Hey, if you don't have a smart phone to install Vaper's Toolbox on, THIS works really well too.
Do you have access to android or apple apps for your phone?
I have a samsung galaxy tablet 2, when I download apps I get them from play store most of the time.
I need to attempt to build my first coil. I just know that if it does not work out I will end up mad, disappointed, and upset! Lol I also want to ask you guys what size wire and wick types should I buy. I like 1.8 to 2.4 ohms. I have some, but when I purchased mine it was due to everything being sold out except a few options. I want to see what everyone else likes to use!
For myself, I have been using 30ga Kanthal. I do ten wraps around a 16th drill and get about 2.0 ohms. The 30 gauge is pretty tiny, but when I started, most people were using either 28, 30 or 32, so I chose the one in the middle.
It works well for me, and fits easily into my toppers that have holes in the posts, even if I do double coils, so I haven't changed gauges.
I do micro coils, and fire them on my MVP to heat them before squeezing them. The MVP checks the ohms as well. Just don't forget to let go of the fire button before squeezing the coils. (Don't ask me how I know).
Coil building isn't as scary as it sounds, and you get a really good feeling when you first start and get a working one!
Perfect. Its android. The vapors toolbox is free in the play store. It will take all the guesswork out.
Thank you Kathi! I do not have very much wire so I really appreciate you telling me how many wraps and a 16th drill bit! thanks for the info!
Thanks for all of the info everyone! I really appreciate it!
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