Hey guys,
I figured out something rather clever with the AGR tank. Even with the short tube it's still quite a large tank, due to the bottom locking section. The only reason you need the locking section is because screwing the tank straight down onto your PV will result in no contact on the center pin, due to the extra space taken up by the bottom cap of the tank (not the locking section, the actual bottomcap the carto just sits in)
Well, that, and because without the locking section it's a hassle to screw the tank on-and-off your PV, since the o-rings are so loose and it just spins freely around the carto. But that's true of several other tanks as well.
Anyway, all I did was pull the post on the carto and whatever PV I was using so that they could make contact. Doing this allows you to use your AGR without the bottom locking section, cutting down on the size of the tank. If you do this you still retain the locking function of the tank, it's perfectly secure, it simply locks into your PV instead of the locking base piece.
Also, I'm sure most AGR people have heard about the flooding issues some are having. Many have said it's an issue of loosely fitting o-rings around the carto, allowing air into the tank where it shouldn't. I can say I'm absolutely certain this is the cause, when I flipped the tank upside down, took a draw, I could see quite a few bubbles coming from the carto to endcap seal.
Larger o-rings will help, but there is an issue I have run into. Using a thicker o-ring, the o-ring won't fit into the little o-ring channel, because it's machined to a specific size, anything larger won't fit inside.
Using o-rings small enough to fit into the small channel, it then doesn't press as firmly on the carto. If that channel was larger, you could use a much thicker o-ring, which would stick out further into the center hole, sealing better against the carto.
To avoid the whole replacing o-rings thing,I just decided to shim up the current o-rings. I took a carto-condom, cut a tiny bit off the open end, and inserted this "bushing' into the slot, followed by the stock o-rings.
This gave me a much better seal, on my first try too good of a seal, I couldn't get the carto in there at all. I had to cut down the little condom bushing piece to find a spot where it will seal better, but still accept the carto. I've reached a point where it's close to being flood-free, but I still have to pay attention and take VERY light draws as to not suck in any air. It no longer floods while sitting still, but will flood when used as I normally use my tanks (average draw, nothing crazy)
More experimenting could probably get me to a point that it's flood-free and stil accepts the carto, but to be honest I got frustrated tearing the tank down over and over and over again to fiddle with the o-rings, so that's where I'm at right now.
I'm thinking some sort of paper might actually work better, or maybe even something like saran-wrap. You just need something that fits inside of the o-ring channel, that will force the o-ring to extend further into the center hole to press onto the carto firmer.
I just figured I'd share, hopefully this info is useful to someone! And thanks again to you (well, just they) know who for the AGR
I figured out something rather clever with the AGR tank. Even with the short tube it's still quite a large tank, due to the bottom locking section. The only reason you need the locking section is because screwing the tank straight down onto your PV will result in no contact on the center pin, due to the extra space taken up by the bottom cap of the tank (not the locking section, the actual bottomcap the carto just sits in)
Well, that, and because without the locking section it's a hassle to screw the tank on-and-off your PV, since the o-rings are so loose and it just spins freely around the carto. But that's true of several other tanks as well.
Anyway, all I did was pull the post on the carto and whatever PV I was using so that they could make contact. Doing this allows you to use your AGR without the bottom locking section, cutting down on the size of the tank. If you do this you still retain the locking function of the tank, it's perfectly secure, it simply locks into your PV instead of the locking base piece.
Also, I'm sure most AGR people have heard about the flooding issues some are having. Many have said it's an issue of loosely fitting o-rings around the carto, allowing air into the tank where it shouldn't. I can say I'm absolutely certain this is the cause, when I flipped the tank upside down, took a draw, I could see quite a few bubbles coming from the carto to endcap seal.
Larger o-rings will help, but there is an issue I have run into. Using a thicker o-ring, the o-ring won't fit into the little o-ring channel, because it's machined to a specific size, anything larger won't fit inside.
Using o-rings small enough to fit into the small channel, it then doesn't press as firmly on the carto. If that channel was larger, you could use a much thicker o-ring, which would stick out further into the center hole, sealing better against the carto.
To avoid the whole replacing o-rings thing,I just decided to shim up the current o-rings. I took a carto-condom, cut a tiny bit off the open end, and inserted this "bushing' into the slot, followed by the stock o-rings.
This gave me a much better seal, on my first try too good of a seal, I couldn't get the carto in there at all. I had to cut down the little condom bushing piece to find a spot where it will seal better, but still accept the carto. I've reached a point where it's close to being flood-free, but I still have to pay attention and take VERY light draws as to not suck in any air. It no longer floods while sitting still, but will flood when used as I normally use my tanks (average draw, nothing crazy)
More experimenting could probably get me to a point that it's flood-free and stil accepts the carto, but to be honest I got frustrated tearing the tank down over and over and over again to fiddle with the o-rings, so that's where I'm at right now.
I'm thinking some sort of paper might actually work better, or maybe even something like saran-wrap. You just need something that fits inside of the o-ring channel, that will force the o-ring to extend further into the center hole to press onto the carto firmer.
I just figured I'd share, hopefully this info is useful to someone! And thanks again to you (well, just they) know who for the AGR