About Low Resistance and Specific batteries

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mwa102464

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I'm not up to date on this thread so don't spank me here guys, but why doesn't one of the Batt manufacturers making all these Ego type Batts sell one for an LR use only that will support these 1.5 ohm Atty's. Secondly I have been asking for a while and cant get an answer, why wont they just make one with a quality say AW IMR 18650 or even a bit smaller, wouldn't this be a Great Ego type Batt ! especially for LR use or any use ?
 

Rocketman

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Well I'm not gonna touch the LR aspect, not tonight anyway :)

The why don't aspect is $$$. A bigger battery, I don't like name brands, would be fine. In fact it looks like one manufacturer is trying to come out with a giant ego that uses a user replaceable 18650. Problem is, it has problems, so there will just be more "why won't" questions come out of that.

How about an ego nose piece, and a small water bottle full of parallel 18650s? Probably could get 10 in there, all in parallel.
 

mwa102464

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Funny Rocket, but in reality I was thinking even more so about a Blank Ego type Batt with the front cap unscrewing off, slipping in you "QUALITY Batt " and screwing the cap back on the end of it, this would probably be even cheaper since they are providing a blank casing ready to go !!!
 

Rocketman

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I knew what you were referring too and I agree. The 3000mah ego, Rev 4 will probably be what you want. Probably not the current release though.
If you accept the fact that the smaller ego is tough but not indestructible, then the nose could be adapted to a flashlight mod or something similar. But then you would have a flashlight mod with a poorly designed electronics package.
If you eliminated the electronics, then you are back to the 3.7 volt flashlight mod.

old PP&M song;
Where have all the flashlights gone,
 

mwa102464

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I think the AW 17670 would be a super size, sorry to mention brand but its just that little bit thinner then the 18650 or even maybe something a tad smaller but ya I like the Idea of this blank Ego and being able to slam in our own batt of choice so we could match up our Batt to Atty of choice, heck even being able to stack two for HV, They could always sell them with a waring that this batt is only recommended for this or that right, then we would have full roam, just seems the Ego, Riva, Hello STYLE is well taken to by many so if one manufacturer did this it could be a winner Rocket!
 

Rocketman

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The Egos I got for the wife (she doesn't really like the flashlight sized mods) were on sale. I got the "900" but the 600/650 whatever were even cheaper. The big battery idea is what I like but some folks still have a hard time accepting the size of the Ego now. Bigger would sell to a more select crowd.
And a half dozen 900mah Egos have some mah just like they are :)
Me, I likes my flashlights.
 

Scottbee

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As an "aside" data point.... when I replace the MOSFETs in the eGo class units I use the Vishay Si2333DS P-channel unit. It's the same package (SOT-23) as the original and on the bench it appears to give equal if not slightly better performance (both from an Rds(on) perspective as well as ultimate current handling capability).

$.02.. no change required.
 

MacDiver

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right but then it really just comes down to a calculated risk thing you know...some users feel that the benefits outweigh the dangers...and I think they should definitely not be part of a starter kit...

the thing about LR is that the entire purpose of them was to replicate the heat that you'd get off of a 5V+ mod while still using 3.7V batteries thus avoiding some of the problems with stacking batteries... but you only really see the huge jump in performance when using them on an appropriate battery (the 3 I mentioned)... while it does boost heat slightly on the eGo type batteries...it's not that dramatic to really say it makes that huge of a difference...
here's the numbers:
510 atty on a 3.1V battery (ego/riva/the like)..... 4.18W
510 atty on a appropriate 3.7V battery.............. 5.95W
1.5Ω atty on a 3.1V battery........................... 6.41W
1.5Ω atty on a 3.7V battery........................... 9.13W

and if you're not using a 1.5Ω LR atty but ones in the 1.7Ω - 2Ω range... the line in differences become more blurred and less dramatic (ie a 1.7Ω -2Ω so called LR atty is actually less heat than a regular 510 on a real 3.7V battery (1.7Ω-5.65W, 1.8Ω-5.34W, 2Ω-4.81W)

What I'm getting at is that we're victims of hype... yeah it was all about the LR atty and yes it makes a big difference... the 1.5Ω ones....but then everyone gets into the game and puts out 1.7, 1.8, 2.0Ω ones....and tops that with aplications that they really weren't intended for because of the perception that they do better without understanding the how and why... and really they could be doing better with a product that was available before the LR atty...nut yes when broken down the 1.5Ω atty on a LiMN high drain battery works and IS a big jump in performance....but a 1.8Ω one on a riva?...pointless...I can get better preformance out of a cheap box mod with a standard atty..

So good you posted this info. Are the watts given in the examples the same as voltage?

Thanks!

:)
 

hoogie76

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This is a great tool for calculating wattage.. with some of our batteries the wattage is approximately because the batteries aren't able to supply the current required but it's a close estimation in a perfect world :)

Ohm's Law Calculator

Put in any two of the variables, like resistance of the atty and voltage of the battery and hit calculate.

hoog
 

danielwd

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So to review, would I be better off using a standard 3.2 ohm atomizer or a LR 2.5 ohm atomizer for a Roughstack?

If the Roughstack is 3.7 V, then a JOYE 510 2.5 ohm atomizer produces 5.5 Watts.

A standard JOYE 510 3.2 ohm atomizer produces 4.3 Watts.

I'm taking it for granted that the higher the watts, the more output, so the 2.5 ohm atomizer wins. However, does this mess the Roughstack Batteries up?

This also lends the question, what resistance in at atomizer is needed if someone is vaping at 6V?
 
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Freeo

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Is there a big problem with eastmall atomizers atm ive got a heap of these and have gone through about 6 riva batteries some lasting a week some a day. I dont want to use them anymore and still have some sitting in their packaging. I think the draws a little tight on the eastmall 2.3 ohm attys and have given up on a few of them becausde they just dont produce enough vapor.
 

Scottbee

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Is there a big problem with eastmall atomizers atm ive got a heap of these and have gone through about 6 riva batteries some lasting a week some a day. I dont want to use them anymore and still have some sitting in their packaging. I think the draws a little tight on the eastmall 2.3 ohm attys and have given up on a few of them becausde they just dont produce enough vapor.

Do you have an Ohm meter? Have you tested the resistance of the atties that you think have killed your batteries?
 

danielwd

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So to review, would I be better off using a standard 3.2 ohm atomizer or a LR 2.5 ohm atomizer for a Roughstack?

If the Roughstack is 3.7 V, then a JOYE 510 2.5 ohm atomizer produces 5.5 Watts.

A standard JOYE 510 3.2 ohm atomizer produces 4.3 Watts.

I'm taking it for granted that the higher the watts, the more output, so the 2.5 ohm atomizer wins. However, does this mess the Roughstack Batteries up?

This also lends the question, what resistance in at atomizer is needed if someone is vaping at 6V?

I am bumping this hoping someone will give me input. I have used both the LR 2.5 ohm atomizer from madvapes with my Roughstack and the regular 3.2 ohm atomizer from Innovapor.

The atomizers burn very differently for only producing a 1 watt difference in power output. I think I actually like using the 3.2 ohm atomizer because I can take more drags without having to resupply the atomizer with juice so often. The low resistance 2.5 ohm atomizer burns hot, I mean REAL hot. In fact, after about 2 or 3 drags about 30 seconds apart, the atomizer is burning hot, and I am forced to give the 2.5 ohm atty more juice or else I get that burnt taste. I am not sure I observe a very big difference in vapor production, but I think the LR 2.5 ohm atty from Madvapes produces a little bit more vapor than the 3.2 ohm atty from Innovapor.

So the LR 2.5 ohm atomizer may in fact produce more power, but I think I like the regular 3.2 ohm atty better!

Can anyone verify that my math and real-life application of it is proper?
 

hoogie76

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Hi Daniel, actually 2.5 ohm is considered the standard for most regular type china e-cigs.. 2.0 ohm and 1.7 ohm are considered LR atties but it all varies a bit as to what you like.. there's no problem with using 3.2 ohm on a 3.7 volt battery, it just may not produce as much vapor and is definitely less hot.. Battery life will probably be about the same as the heat up time will be a little longer than with an LR.

Most of the China use a mosfet circuit to drive power to the atomizer and sometimes the lower resistance can cause the mosfet driver to fail prematurely. As Freeo mentioned above, sometimes atties will run at a lower resistance than anticipated and may kill batteries.. They're not quite shorted but not above the magical 2.0 ohm threshhold..

As far as Mods go that using a regular mechanical switch, you can pretty much use any atty that you like as they will typically handle 1.7 ohms and up with no problems and it comes down to preference of what you like vapor and juice wise.. Personally, I go for a 3.7 volt battery and a 2 ohm atomizer..

Bottom line is that you are absolutely right in your calculations, it all comes down to watts and the more watts, the hotter the atty will get and the more juice/battery it will consume..

hoog
 
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