About Low Resistance and Specific batteries
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Wire Glue?
OH NO YOU DIT-ENT...
Learn to solder, folks... Wire glue is no substitute in high current situations.
WIRE GLUE?
perfect thread for me to read, but I think I was a couple of days too late, I have a 016 that I was using both reg and LR attys on it, yesterday I went to charge it like normal and when I took it off the charge and put an atty on it, it started blinking right away, when I take the atty off and press the button it stays on, either way it does not fire up the attys anymore. Is this what happend to me, and the battery I so love is now trash????I do love dripping on the LR attys and that is what seems to keep me off the cigs, I also love doing buisiness with madvapes, they have been great.
The symptoms you are describing exactly match the way a few of my NJoy batteries died. I did a postmortem autopsy on them and confirmed it was the circuit that fried. The actual lithium cell was still in fine condition.
If you are not able to get warranty replacement or other solution, I would like to see an 016... dissect it, etc. But try to get it replaced first.
Wire Glue?
OH NO YOU DIT-ENT...
Learn to solder, folks... Wire glue is no substitute in high current situations.
WIRE GLUE?
lol... well yeah I did....soldering would be most preferable....but let's face it there are those out there that either can't or won't....
and I'm sure you're not likely volunteering to do the soldering for those folks...
so while it's not anywhere near the best solution it is a solution...
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Well put Zen~ as hoog should be applauded for his posting and business way (Kudos to you Hoog ) and I mean it. I was just on a bit of a rampage of why we cant get QUALITY FOR THE LR USE and what I think would be awesome is if someone could produce the type of Batt I was speaking of and sell just the skin and we drop the AW batt in it. I have an Indulgence and heck every type of Mod as you can see some of them in my Avatar, I was just thinking it would be a cool way to go, heck a nice big Ego type skin with the same style and built with an AW would be a sweet mod IMHO.
The fact remains the same however and these Manufacturers are selling Batts that cant carry the draw of the Atty's that they are selling to go with there Batts. It makes me think it is part of the marketing and sales scheme of things and they know darn well these Batts will fail, and faster using the LR's and this will raise sales for sure as people repurchase if they do. But wouldn't it make sense to sell a more quality Batt is all I was trying to say and the resources are quite available to do so that's for sure.
This kinda has nothing to do with the thread topic, so a discussion of wire glue and its attributes should be a new thread in the Modders section, if there isn't one already.
But anyway, I'm not volunteering to solder for people, but considering I learned to solder at 10 years of age, I find it hard to believe that anybody that would take on a mod project wouldn't at least be interested in learning to do it correctly. When alternatives like wire glue are suggested by an otherwise intelligent guy such as yourself, that could be read by many as an endorsement of the method and folks will feel in some way that it's a good solution.
Wire glue was created for use in emergency repairs, and really not as a permanent fix by any means. If you're in the woods, away from electriciy and your mod breaks... whip out the wire glue and limp home on it. If you want something to have a reliable electrical connection... solder it.
Soldering is easy, anybody can learn it in ten minutes and there are lots of tutorials on you tube. Wire glue isn't even a close substitute. A person can find a usable soldering iron at the dollar store, less money than wire glue.
I love the smell of flux in the morning.
At any rate, there are plenty of PV devices floating around that will accommodate a low resistance atomizer/cartomizer. Just spend the extra few minutes learning about the device you have or intend to buy. If a manufacturer doesn't post such information then ask. If they don't answer, move on.
At any rate, there are plenty of PV devices floating around that will accommodate a low resistance atomizer/cartomizer. Just spend the extra few minutes learning about the device you have or intend to buy. If a manufacturer doesn't post such information then ask. If they don't answer, move on.
Wow!!! Information overload here! lol Great thread! Thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge.
But... Can all you smart folks dumb it down for this dumbass? lol I think I have the jift of all this from reading this thread but I'd feel better if someone could summarize all of this by telling me if the below is correct as I'm sure many others out there would like a clear simple answer as well. If I have this wrong please feel free to copy and paste it as it should read. Also because the EGO is such a common pv used by others could you advise for it's proper use in the same fashion? I think this would be very helpful for the average joe's like me out there reading this thread. And thanks again to all of you for all the great info and work.
STANDARD 510 Power supply (or what ever you want to call the thing that holds the battery)
You CAN use a LR 2ohm atty/carto but it will shorten the life of the battery.
You SHOULD use a standard 3ohm atty/carto
Silver bullet w/ 3.7v TR18650
You CAN use a LR 1.5 - 2ohm atty/carto but it will shorten the life of the battery.
You SHOULD use a standard 3ohm atty/carto
Silver bullet @ 6v
You SHOULD use a standard 3ohm atty/carto
NEVER use any LR atty/carto's
But... Can all you smart folks dumb it down for this dumbass? lol I think I have the jift of all this from reading this thread but I'd feel better if someone could summarize all of this by telling me if the below is correct as I'm sure many others out there would like a clear simple answer as well. If I have this wrong please feel free to copy and paste it as it should read. Also because the EGO is such a common pv used by others could you advise for it's proper use in the same fashion? I think this would be very helpful for the average joe's like me out there reading this thread. And thanks again to all of you for all the great info and work.
STANDARD 510 Power supply (or what ever you want to call the thing that holds the battery)
You CAN use a LR 2ohm atty/carto but it will shorten the life of the battery.
You SHOULD use a standard 3ohm atty/carto
Silver bullet w/ 3.7v TR18650
You CAN use a LR 1.5 - 2ohm atty/carto but it will shorten the life of the battery.
You SHOULD use a standard 3ohm atty/carto
Silver bullet @ 6v
You SHOULD use a standard 3ohm atty/carto
NEVER use any LR atty/carto's
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Just to make it a bit more complicated, standard ecig power units (510, 901, etc) and ego-like units actually use a crude PWM circuit to run at ~3.2 volts. This means the batteries are actually under less stress than the calculations thus far provided would indicate - both because of the lower effective voltage and because li-ion batteries "prefer" to discharge in a pulsed fashion.
What is the exact difference? Damned if I know. LR attys are still probably more than the units can handle. But the pedanticist in me felt compelled to point it out.
What is the exact difference? Damned if I know. LR attys are still probably more than the units can handle. But the pedanticist in me felt compelled to point it out.
Let me add in another $0.02 to the discussion re: why did they design/make the ego, etc with the silly mosfet design?
My guess, they already had the design and circuitry handy. After all its exactly the same circuitry that's in the 510, 901, 801, 401 etc. Just added a bigger cell (battery) to the mix.
I'd change this to say You CAN use a LR 2.0 ohm atty/carto bit it most likely will fry the electronics killing the device. If it doesn't die the life of the battery will be shortened.
My guess, they already had the design and circuitry handy. After all its exactly the same circuitry that's in the 510, 901, 801, 401 etc. Just added a bigger cell (battery) to the mix.
I'd change this to say You CAN use a LR 2.0 ohm atty/carto bit it most likely will fry the electronics killing the device. If it doesn't die the life of the battery will be shortened.
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It has the ''silly" MOSFET in there to allow you to charge off the same ''port" you put your atomizer/cartomizer on. Without the electronics you cannot use the single port for power in/power out. It also incorporates high limit and low limit battery state. I.e. the stuff that keeps your battery from going boom.
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JonnyVapΣ;2098842 said:
What? You mean people want to CHARGE the battery after using it? How silly!
The eGo is designed the way it is so it will emulate the user experience of the standard e-cig power supplies. And as Johnny vape stated, without the circuit which includes the mosfet for the switch, a charger bypass diode, low/high voltage cutoffs and timer cut-offs, you would need to hold the power switch the whole time the battery is charging.
I still wonder why something like an eGo couldn't be designed to take a regular 14500 battery instead of being designed around a proprietary design. I'd think a thin wall design could be done that's only 1.5-2ml larger in diameter than the eGo. And a simple switch with no other circuitry. But instead the more complicated approach.
They're all over the place. They're called flashlight mods...LOL. Throw a protected 14500 in it and vape away. This is also how many of the purpose built PVs are made. The protected battery will cut out at it's designed cut-off, then remove the battery to charge it in a battery charger.
LOL well yes, I guess I should have spelled out what I was thinking more carefully. As in why isn't there an as-built already constructed made in China designed eGo like unit that's basically a commercial laser pointer mod? I mean eastmall came up with the Indulgence which is a rather nice variation of the basic flashlight mod, even if they decided to go with a 18350 vs the more common 14500 or 16340 cell.
Why not buy an Icon.... Do you have a problem with US made goods?
That's not really the way it works for me. The the PCB doesn't kick in, the batts voltage will no longer fire the atty and it needs to be recharged, it hasn't been cut-off by the PCB.JonnyVapΣ;2100681 said:
These protection circuits aren't precision devices. In many CPForum drain tests they often don't kick in at the specified low voltage, even the always praised AW's.
When I pull a batt to recharge the voltage is usually around 3.3V.
I had an UltraFire 3000mAh 18650 (a poor choice which should be avoided, as are most UltraFires) trip the low volt cut off and it wouldn't take a charge after that.
I abuse the crap outta my batteries. Mindlessly vape till they fail over then stick em on the charger. So far so good. 2 are UltraFire and the rest TrustFire.
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