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Here's a thread addressing leaking in the Protank: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/404745-help-kanger-protank-leaking.html
This also addresses it: http://www.sun-vapers.com/kanger-t3-evod-protank-bottom-coil-refilling-station/
Personally, I've never had the issue but a few people do on occasion.
So basically it's probably better to use a different brand of clearomizer?
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Wow - that's a lot of leaking. The 'T' and 'M' series always seem to have troubles, for what it's worth. But the Protank II? Gasp!
I think, if someone's going to help you with your problem, we'll need to know more about your set-up: battery, running voltage/wattage, etc.
I think, if someone's going to help you with your problem, we'll need to know more about your set-up: battery, running voltage/wattage, etc.
Leaking where?
I have a problem with the bottom coil type if I carry them in my pants pocket this summer. The warm and the jiggling seems to flood them. Left one on the seat in direct sun and it flooded.
I have a problem with the bottom coil type if I carry them in my pants pocket this summer. The warm and the jiggling seems to flood them. Left one on the seat in direct sun and it flooded.
Well, NO. I didn't say that at all.....lol
I figured you'd click the links and see what's happening and how to stop it from doing it since you're one of the few it happens to.
in summer store/carry them upside down(if bottom coil) really seems to help
The only time my bcc leaked was when I tried to take the flavor wicks off. I had to go back the the store and get new coils, and the guy said "we sold that to you yesterday, you tried to take the flavor wicks out, didn't you?" Ashamed, i told him that I did. He told me not to worry, they've all done it. Lesson learned, the wicks stay in.
Most of the leaking issues, (Pro Tank 2 ) if not all, that I've seen on the forum were user error.
Removal of any of the O-rings (when cleaning or operator removal)
Non Kanger replacement coils
Removal or inverting the silicone "cup" that sits above the wicks on the "chimney"
Proper tightening of the tank components during assembly
Removal of one or more wicks
I have 4 PT2's.
Removal of any of the O-rings (when cleaning or operator removal)
Non Kanger replacement coils
Removal or inverting the silicone "cup" that sits above the wicks on the "chimney"
Proper tightening of the tank components during assembly
Removal of one or more wicks
I have 4 PT2's.
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Sorry if I send things off on a tangent, but I can only go off what I know.
I loved my evods, but I eventually got sick of the intermittent gurgling and leaking. No matter how I built the coils, wick size, nothing.. I'd get a center post full of juice eventually.
I ended up moving on. I bought some RDAs and never looked back. My IGO-l vapes better than my evods ever did... they are all sitting in a drawer, untouched for months.
The problem with the bcc is heat. When the tank gets warm the air inside expands and pushes the liquid through the wick. Inverting does help. Also, I have found after vaping heavily, they collect condensation in the air tube and this can leak down through the coil into the battery when it sits for an extended time. This also seems to be part of the reason for the gurgling. I keep a few cotton swabs on me to push down in the hole to soak up the condensation ( I do this every time I refill too), then I remove the bcc and put a rubber cap on the mouthpiece and invert it if I'm not vaping it. Also when you release the power, draw a split second longer to empty the air tube of all vapor so it doesn't condensate as quick.
Hope this helps a little.
Hope this helps a little.
The problem with the bcc is heat. When the tank gets warm the air inside expands and pushes the liquid through the wick. Inverting does help. Also, I have found after vaping heavily, they collect condensation in the air tube and this can leak down through the coil into the battery when it sits for an extended time. This also seems to be part of the reason for the gurgling. I keep a few cotton swabs on me to push down in the hole to soak up the condensation ( I do this every time I refill too), then I remove the bcc and put a rubber cap on the mouthpiece and invert it if I'm not vaping it. Also when you release the power, draw a split second longer to empty the air tube of all vapor so it doesn't condensate as quick.
Hope this helps a little.
In all reality, this isn't exclusive to the bcc. The top coils do the same thing. Heavy vaping causes excessive condensation in the tip and goes right into the tube cause it has nowhere else to go. Matter of fact, my theory is that what most people think is a leak into the battery area is really just discolored condensation - after all, it's the juice that's condensing.
Also, any time you try to rebuild or modify something that wasn't meant to be it's going to have problems unless you've gotten extremely good at it, which simply means you've screwed it up so many numerous times you have it all figured out. Obviously if the item wasn't of good quality to begin with this may not apply. But consider Kanger - one of the best fit and finish, for now. However if you try to anything but replace the replaceables, which is subject to speculation, or try to use somehting other than Kanger parts, it causes problems. Ergo - not a good idea to by a PT and then try to use a knockoff coil replacement from FastTech or elsewhere.
RBAs, RDAs, or what have you, are less prone to problems because they are designed so, hence them being a bit bulkier/substantial - they stand up better.
Another good note about 80% of whatevers out there - if they employ plastic parts, the quality will be less and the problems will be more. Plastic cannot be made as accurtely as metal or glass parts, it inherently can't hold tolerances very well.
If you like the bcc, you could try a Smok Tech. They are very good quality so far. The Tumbler seems to be having great success at being problem free which may be due to it being made to handle tougher liquids, so overall it becomes a bit tougher.
How in the world are you getting Kanger T2's to leak?
If you do not over fill
Do not leave laying on their side
Do not leave sitting for days to over wick
Clean/dry burn or Replace the wick
a T2 should Never leak.
Also, take everything you read about why Kanger BCC's leak and everything you read about Fixes with a grain of Salt.
Fact is, different people find different way to compensate for issues They are eperiencing with a particular tank/situation.
Honestly, in over a year of using Kanger Tanks<almost All Versions> I have NEVER had leaking issues and trust when I say I am FAR from the luckiest person around.
If you do not over fill
Do not leave laying on their side
Do not leave sitting for days to over wick
Clean/dry burn or Replace the wick
a T2 should Never leak.
Also, take everything you read about why Kanger BCC's leak and everything you read about Fixes with a grain of Salt.
Fact is, different people find different way to compensate for issues They are eperiencing with a particular tank/situation.
Honestly, in over a year of using Kanger Tanks<almost All Versions> I have NEVER had leaking issues and trust when I say I am FAR from the luckiest person around.
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