Achilles is not a carto, is an atomizer, so it can do what an atomizer can do and a lot more sub
Achilles official
- Thread starter imeothanasis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Achilles is not a carto, is an atomizer, so it can do what an atomizer can do and a lot more sub
Ok Thanks Imeo! I figured as much. I'm just trying to think of a better setup than her ego batteries and boge cartos! She thinks my "huge" GGTS and Ody are silly and has no interest in them haha. Oh well, as long as she's not smoking cigarettes I guess that's what is important. I can't wait for Achilles, though! There might be something I can set her up with, we will see!
UFS is not really big on GGTS because it replaces the whole AD cap buddy. But its very big on other devices. Thats why I want to make something even smaller and thinner but able to keep more liquid that Ody and still be as versatile as the UFS is
Moral of the story... just get a GGTS.
Imeo I have a question regarding the Archillis. Will it fit inside the Ithakickass.. I think I read somewhere that it could.. I have no idea how or what but is this correct?
it cant fit skiba, except we make something like the " Ody's expansion pack". But not all the pack, only the "atomizer pack". Its 3 easy pieces. A center post, a plastic and a cylinder with threads inside
Wait so it can happen.. with just 3 extra pieces. That incredible. I seriously can't wait.
Oh man I am sooooo looking forward to the future of GG products.
Oh man I am sooooo looking forward to the future of GG products.
GG products are not ordinary products skiba, you know that. We dont need to make a new construction. Its like software, they can be updated at any time
may i ask where is pre-order going to be held ? Are you going to create seperate sub forum or something like that ? I wanna know where to look for it when it happens also what would be an ETA on it when pre-order ?
also what would be an ETA on it when pre-order ?In about 3 weeks I will start preorders and they will be announced here my friend byd
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/352148-gg-official-announcments.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/352148-gg-official-announcments.html
You know Imeo, i was thinking about this a couple of days ago..
"who knows if Imeo will make an Ithaka update for the Achilles" it sounded plausible
Of course i want
I trust your expertise and devotion to what you do blindly all the time and ready to sign up to any new product you have in mind. Nevertheless I think you should give a try to a solution without the NR wire. In my experience the Penelope and Ody works great, nothing match the performance if everything is done right at the set up. On the other hand there can be problems, which always come from joining NR with R wires. Jumping ohms, sometimes not 100% performance etc... I am sure all of us who use your great devices have experienced these. This might lead to creating a new set up every 2-3 days.
I know if everything is done right the above is not happening. But even for me, who is using GG stuff for more, than a year its a kind of luck situation. Creating a good join is one thing, the other is how the small "nuts" created by screwing together the wires behave when installing the coil in the center piece. The slightest miss positioning might lead to issues.
I also know that using pre-made wires this is not an issue, but I believe your mail goal is to give people hassle free devices with very easy set up (no tools required). Always worrying about when new pre-made will be available at vendors is not in line with that, I guess.
There is a certain type of Russian device which has a different feeding approach and does not require NR wires. I do not think that it matches the outstanding holy trinity of Penelope (Taste / Vapor production / TH) but I have to admit it is much easier to set up.
Also I am aware that some (non-Chinese) copiers are using your feeding method but implementing a set up which does not require NR wires.
I am not saying that this is the way to hit and I am pretty sure you have your good reasons to keep on using NR in your devices, but please Imeo give it a thought as this is the only part of your devices which creates the most headache for your customers.
noone had problems with ohms while joining wires Cy. The problem is not the joining, its that the negative wire is not under the metal channel in the right way. I solved this in Ithaka where we put the negative wire under a nut.
Russians copied my feeding method and they copied A2 atomizer method where you put wires around 2 bolts. This method is used from all the atomizer makers as you know, just because they didnt find a better way to make your life easier. I will tell you the benefits of NR wires and you will agree with me:
1. You know everytime exactly what is your resistance and you are not based on how many circles you will make around the wick. If for example you want to make a higher or lower than your ususal resistance, you just cant do it exept you spend 3-4 wires. Also you have to rememeber for each resistance how many loops you need. And if you chabge the diameter of your wick then you have to count and remember again the combination
2. Without NR wires you will be forced to join R wire in a difficult way because connections are very close each other. And you will need tools, something that I dont like on atomizers. Atomizer must be made easy without the need of tools like a screwdriver or a hairpin and without the need of focus lens.
Also, there is no need to make wires only when you want to change your coil. You can make 4-5 wires when you are relax and use then when time comes
As for the bolts that keep wires in place, its the best system if you agree. I never saw a person having problems with those huge bolts!
I am trying to make products that can be used from any person. I dont think that any other atomizer has this ability. The only I see are atomizers made by the same old method where we try to see where the bolt is and if wires are catched under the bolt using tools and focus lens
Russians copied my feeding method and they copied A2 atomizer method where you put wires around 2 bolts. This method is used from all the atomizer makers as you know, just because they didnt find a better way to make your life easier. I will tell you the benefits of NR wires and you will agree with me:
1. You know everytime exactly what is your resistance and you are not based on how many circles you will make around the wick. If for example you want to make a higher or lower than your ususal resistance, you just cant do it exept you spend 3-4 wires. Also you have to rememeber for each resistance how many loops you need. And if you chabge the diameter of your wick then you have to count and remember again the combination
2. Without NR wires you will be forced to join R wire in a difficult way because connections are very close each other. And you will need tools, something that I dont like on atomizers. Atomizer must be made easy without the need of tools like a screwdriver or a hairpin and without the need of focus lens.
Also, there is no need to make wires only when you want to change your coil. You can make 4-5 wires when you are relax and use then when time comes
As for the bolts that keep wires in place, its the best system if you agree. I never saw a person having problems with those huge bolts!
I am trying to make products that can be used from any person. I dont think that any other atomizer has this ability. The only I see are atomizers made by the same old method where we try to see where the bolt is and if wires are catched under the bolt using tools and focus lens
Last edited:
Thank you for your detailed answer Imeo. I must agree that setting up those devices need eagle eye, a steady hand and tools (though some versions are with bolts).
I take special care for the negative wire to have a firm connection. What I realized that the bolt on the center pin fixing the positive wire can easily come loose. Is this something that can cause the jumping ohms? Will this be solved in Ithaka?
Thanks again and keep up the great work!
I take special care for the negative wire to have a firm connection. What I realized that the bolt on the center pin fixing the positive wire can easily come loose. Is this something that can cause the jumping ohms? Will this be solved in Ithaka?
Thanks again and keep up the great work!
- Status
Similar threads
