Tammy... my first 1.5 ohm aero (306) is in the mail but... I believe the coils on the aeros and the regular bridgeless cisco 1.5 ohm atties are the same, the only difference is the different air-flow in the aero.
And, I got a fair amount of experience with the regular 1.5 ohm bridgeless ciscos (again, 306ers) and... the key thing here is what is the ACTUAL voltage of your battery. I am using egos... they have an internal 3.7 volt battery just like most but, they are REGULATED to 3.4 volts. What this means in practice is that, when they are fully charged, they are around 3.55 - 3.6 volts, and when they are almost out of charge, they are around 3.2 - 3.25 volts.
Now, with this setup... and my normal
juice... I sometimes get some burning right near the end of the vape and if so, I just stop there or add a few drops.
But, if you are using an unregulated 3.7 volt battery... then that is running at 4.2 volts when fully charged and, yeah, you would be getting burning with that I would expect.
If your battery IS regulated... but at something higher than 3.4-3.6 volts then, well, probably the same thing.
If this is the case... then you can always go to a battery with regulated voltage (the ego-c twist is regulated and you can set it anywhere's between 3.2 and 4.8 volts) OR.... you can get the 2.0 ohm regular ciscos.
Lastly, different juices start burning at different heat levels. I had some on 1.8 ohm bridged ciscos that I was getting some burning on and, moved those to 2.0 ohm bridgeless ciscos and, the burning stopped. Also, I had some other
juice that I was testing on the equivalent of 1.5 ohmers on egos and, it started burning half ways through the vape (this one was German Chocolate Cake) and so, I moved it back to the 2.0 ohm atty. Yeah, been thinking of using the ego c twist more as with that, I can use the 2.0 ohm atties (or whatever) and just set the voltage for each different
juice so that juice, does not burn.
Hope this helps.