AGA T+ Questions, please advise

[hacklerjason]

The history... I am so tired of throwing 2.65 away once per bottle of juice over poorly made cartos.. my first rba was a BT-V1... its a bottom feed silica u-wick type.. couple things I didn't like about it... poorly sized seals and the makralon tank... iirc, makralon is poly carbonate which cracks with certain juices ie blueberry and cinnamon. And wicks were so beast to make I never did get the hang of it. Attempted to make wicks from cotton right out of the gates with no prior experience building coils. I kept getting super gnarly throat hit and my ohms were all over the place. I gave up for awhile and decided to give it another shot with an AGA T+... I got coils and wicks made without problems.. here are the questions...

1: is it supposed to be drawn on long and slow, like a lung hit as opposed to dragging like analogs or cartos? With cartos the vape is hotter and thicker for any derration of time

2: what is the advised pg ratio for genesis styles?

3: does flavor change with the genesis types over cartos? A juice that normally has good flavor put into my aga is on the weak side but with huge th... those were 70/30 liquid.. then I made a 50/50 with same flavor and now the th is way down and flavor is ehh...

4: what type of cloud should I expect with a given type of draw from question 1? When I draw long and slow with a lung hit I get a huge cloud with awesome flavor quality, seems like not enough quantity of flavor

5: When making juices.. does a batch that is normally made at 70/30 need to have more flavor added in addition to what is already used to make the strength of the flavor comparable in a batch at 50/50? I would easily make a new batch of juice with stronger flavor but if its not needed then it would be wastefull... although no juice is wasted.. all bad batches get poured into a bulk waste batch bottle and vaped when times is hard or waiting on vape mail..

 

[Ov3rDoSe]

This is just me calling on some knowledge I've picked up from around youtube and the forums, learned because I have an AGA-T 2 in the mail right now.

1- You can hit these any way you want, its entirely your personal preference. (Zen's Genesis Video)

2- The question here is whether you are using mesh or not. According to Zen, the higher VG juices work better with a 375x375 SS wick and higher VG content works better with a 400x400 or higher. I cannot see a reason to worry about the PG or VG content other than the polycarbonate tank you have on the T+, which may be susceptible to breaking down with certain juices.

3- Try moving around your air hole. Directly over the coil yeilds the most vapor but diminished throat hit and taste. Slightly off to the side reduces vapor and gives better throat hit and taste.

4- This is just my experience; but with anything I've vaped, a lung hit usually doesn't get full flavor because it is bypassing your taste buds. Lung hits for throat hits and 'show', and "french" or mouth inhales for full flavor.

5- I can't say much here because I don't make my own juices, but I would think its all about experimenting with DIY to find what's best in your setup; same way building a coil takes practice to get right for a certain build.

Most things on a genesis style won't be as different as you seem to believe. It's just a vaping platform not unlike the vivi-nova or anything else with a top coil. They all work on the same basic principles and the beauty of the AGA-T models is the ability to fine tune the experience, and rebuild it for insanely cheap.

Here is Zen's video on rebuilding. Its for the z-atty pro. but is really almost identical to the AGA-T range of rebuildables. Full of info to further answer most of your questions.





Just my two-cents anyways

 

[BlkWolfMidnight]

Pretty much was covered already, I've just a few things to add.
AGA-T's factory hole is not large enough for the device (personal opinion) but 1.2mm should do just fine if you wish to preserve taste and TH. The wick/coil will atomize liquid based on coil set up, wick set-up...ect (I set them up currently to fog a room in 5 hits, but that's just personal preference).
Larger air hole=faster draw (just a general rule). In reality it should get enough air to allow for rapid vaporization however not too much to drown out the flavor.
Compairing a carto to a genisis is about like compairing an apple to an orange. A closer compairson is a drip atomizer to a genisis because both use direct coil contact vaporization, carto's work on heating a space inside a fiber based tube encased with metal or plastic sleeving.
If you loose wrap a wick (spongey wick as they call) I can wick pure VG without an issue.
As for flavor you will notice some juices come out more and some less, its kind of a mystery as to which may change or not. I do notice thoug a stronger TH on all juices reguardless of what it is.
Clouds-well today its slightly cloudy with a chance of thunderstorms later in the day, I'm really not sure what its like in your area. No really clouds aren't a concern of mine but vary with draw, vaporization, coil set up, battery set up...ect
Typically you'll produce a good amount of really yummy tasting vapor from a genisis, but it again varies on set up.

Hope this helps, feel free to PM if you need any coil/wick help as I'm very well versed in this.

 

[starwatching]

I have a question about Genesis style RBA's. I am following Phil B's video about wick building with an unoxidized wick. My problem is getting my device to fire. I am wondering if it is because it is a "protected" device. It is a Lavatube V3 Labmo. I can't get the coil to light up at all. Some of the other devices I have include an eVic, VV Twist batteries and a Provari. I really don't want to try the Provari and risk hurting the device. Is this the issue with the devices being protected? Suggestions on which to try or maybe all my devices won't work. Please advise. Thanks in advance!

 

[Ov3rDoSe]

Unoxidized SS mesh could very easily ground out to wherever it is touching inside the RBA. The point of oxidization is to eliminate the conductivity of the mesh, so when playing with unoxidized, you will be in for a lot of fiddling. Unfortunately I cannot seem to find pbusardo's tutorial on here or youtube, so I can't really give you a second opinion on what might be going wrong.

What I do know is that yes, all the protected devices will not fire ground outs, shorts, etc, for obvious safety reasons. Using a multimeter on your RBA will tell you if you have a short by showing your resistance fluctuating wildly.

Or, as shown in the video in my previous post, just start off with the provari at its lowest setting and work up. The built in safety features should protect your provari from any damage. Emphasis on should because I am by no means an expert and cannot guarantee anything.

Lastly, you may just want to try oxidizing it

 

[BlkWolfMidnight]

To Oxidize or Not to Oxidize..that is the question...but why wouldn't you want to.
Carbon, wonderful carbon...Aside from being a great insulator of electrical conductivity carbon wil absorb liquids like a sponge, this is particually due to the fact that micro capularies develop as part of the carbon process.
SS mesh is conductive (no other way to say it)...so 1 of two things can happen.
APV(regulated Mod)-You'll ground out the coil system activating the short protection, over, and over, and over again. Eventually the mod will have had enough and more then likely you'll have cooked the chipset ( Like a fuse, it can only take so much).
Mechanical Mod- There is the possibility that you may create a dead short, this would possibly cause the battery to vent, destroying your mod and battery.
Base line is...just don't do it, there is a reason that nothing electrically conductive touches the coils and any modder will avoid grouding out their mod and or dead shorts like the plauge.
Ok, so you want ideas on how to make it work is to electrically isolate the compnents (wire cant touch wick, wick can't touch bottom of atomizer or sides..ect). The wick can not be grounded through the wick hole (ZEN atomizers use an isolater), Well there ya have it, its to keep the wick from grounding out to the body of the atomizer (polar charge of the body of the atomizer will match what your pv is, typically its negitive or ground) and keep your wire from grounding out.
That is my two cents worth on this issue....

 

[starwatching]

Thank you so much for the info. I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a small butane torch. I will oxidize and try that. It sounds like the best way to try this. Thank you both for all your help. I greatly appreciate it!!

 

[hacklerjason]

Thank you all for your input... as i have been reading, it really comes down to what i like and how i like to get it there... the theory is pretty much the same across the board, then develop a technique that i like... i think i may have found one i like for rolling a wick and coil... i just tried rolling a wick on a drill bit... the size of the mesh 400x400 1.50x1.50"... drill bit 1/16"... cut the mesh fold back 1/8 at the end and roll from opposite end with folded side inwards to the roll... roll it as tight as i can get it on the drill bit and pull it out then torch... as it turns out the rolled mesh will take up the other space to fit perfectly in the hole for the AGA T+...

Ov3rDoSe - i dont have a plastic tank... my AGA T+ came with pyrex tank and silicone end seals... i actually really dig the build and weight quality

 

[hacklerjason]

i also found another neat trick... i grabbed a bag of m2 nuts and washers... instead of those crap knurled finger nuts that came with it... now i just use tweezers... i do have two washers to get the positive post closer to the coil... i also kink leads to the coil on both ends... i roll coils on wicks before installation to the aga... air hole received 3/32 port and polish ;-) and i must say it vapes well...

 

[bebeau25]

I don't want to steal the op's thread, but I do have a small question about hot spots. I have an AGI. Finally got it to work on my second attempt at building the coil. It worked great for a day and now I seem have developed a hot spot and its being very stubborn. Can't get it to go away. Is this normal for them to develop on an already working wick and coil setup? Do I just need to reoxidize the wick and rebuild the coil?

 

[serenity21899]

The history... I am so tired of throwing 2.65 away once per bottle of juice over poorly made cartos.. my first rba was a BT-V1... its a bottom feed silica u-wick type.. couple things I didn't like about it... poorly sized seals and the makralon tank... iirc, makralon is poly carbonate which cracks with certain juices ie blueberry and cinnamon. And wicks were so beast to make I never did get the hang of it. Attempted to make wicks from cotton right out of the gates with no prior experience building coils. I kept getting super gnarly throat hit and my ohms were all over the place. I gave up for awhile and decided to give it another shot with an AGA T+... I got coils and wicks made without problems.. here are the questions...

1: is it supposed to be drawn on long and slow, like a lung hit as opposed to dragging like analogs or cartos? With cartos the vape is hotter and thicker for any derration of time

2: what is the advised pg ratio for genesis styles?

3: does flavor change with the genesis types over cartos? A juice that normally has good flavor put into my aga is on the weak side but with huge th... those were 70/30 liquid.. then I made a 50/50 with same flavor and now the th is way down and flavor is ehh...

4: what type of cloud should I expect with a given type of draw from question 1? When I draw long and slow with a lung hit I get a huge cloud with awesome flavor quality, seems like not enough quantity of flavor

5: When making juices.. does a batch that is normally made at 70/30 need to have more flavor added in addition to what is already used to make the strength of the flavor comparable in a batch at 50/50? I would easily make a new batch of juice with stronger flavor but if its not needed then it would be wastefull... although no juice is wasted.. all bad batches get poured into a bulk waste batch bottle and vaped when times is hard or waiting on vape mail..

2. I vape 12mg normally. I was told to go to 1/2 of that, which is 6mg. It works for me so far.

5. I don't think pg/vg ratio affects the flavor. My understanding is that the nic content does. However, I vaped some 0mg the other day, and at least from that vendor, the flavor was about the same. Not sure on DIY, however, how nic would have an effect as I haven't mixed any 0 nic.

 

[hacklerjason]

2. I vape 12mg normally. I was told to go to 1/2 of that, which is 6mg. It works for me so far.

5. I don't think pg/vg ratio affects the flavor. My understanding is that the nic content does. However, I vaped some 0mg the other day, and at least from that vendor, the flavor was about the same. Not sure on DIY, however, how nic would have an effect as I haven't mixed any 0 nic.

I do believe that PG content does in fact matter, I may be wrong. From what I read up on before getting into DIY liquid, PG will help convey flavor better than VG, iirc. I'm no expert but I do have access to the greatest resources available. Nic will affect TH in a big way, then would be PG. Since asking the questions I went and just did my own research. I remade bottles of juice that I normally vape and tried them at different VG ratios. I am currently using the exact same flavors at 50:50 and the TH has much improved and consequently, so has the vapor production! With the heavier VG I get huge clouds and almost velvety vapes. The flavor tastes the same, just not as potent with higher VG. I didn't want to have so many changes at one time and not be able to identify each ones affect on the outcome. Need to still have control of the experiment in order to obtain end results. Otherwise I may find "something" that makes improvement but wouldn't be able to identify it to reproduce it...

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