Just bought a flavor in a brick and mortar along with a Fogger v5 It's my first rta, and I built a 2.0ohm Coil myself (Was aiming a 1.5 but I went over and decided it was fine) I burn at 10 watts, the juice is 95% VG and sitting on "Japanese Cotton" the guy at the brick and mortar said it was all he had left and he said he'd throw in a pack for buying the fogger. My question is this, to avoid dry hitting, and burnt cotton, should I open the airflow on the fogger all the way? Or clamp it down at a resistance? I tend to vape quicker than I should when the flavor is tasty and want to avoid burning tastes as much as I can.
Airflow questing with thicker juice.
- Thread starter Luninariel
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I vape high vg juices and never had air flow make a difference as far as it wicking. I have been told tho that the cotton takes time to break in to wick right.
A lack of pertinent information requires that I guess, from the several possible options available. Detail is always good when asking questions, Luninariel.
For the condition you refer to as "dry hits", where there is too much current output for the wicking material to keep up, or an adjustable AFC is wide open, reducing the percentage of draw vacuum used to pull juice into the vaporization chamber/wick-in-coil, or... (yes, another "or") the wicking material itself has poor capillary action, or fit too tightly in the coil - resulting in poor wick-in-coil juice replenishment...
Some fairly generic cures...
- You don't have too much wattage for the build. If anything, depending on the wire gauge, you may have an overly cold "heat flux" - which is radiant coil heat, expressed in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area, squared, or mW/mm2.
For example, if you're running a "I built a 2.0ohm Coil myself" from 28 gauge, the temperature may be as low 89 mW/mm2. If you're running a single 32 gauge coil, you have gone in the other direction, and have... perhaps an excessively warm 357 mW/mm2. - A wide open AFC, on a poorly designed atomizer may draw too much outside air, and not enough of the draw is used to pull in fresh juice. Reducing the intake air may bring air distribution into balance.
Also, the occasional covering of the inlet air port - with a few unfired draws - will serve to pull a larger volume of juice into the chamber. Sort of "priming the pump" if you will. - Lastly, and certainly one of the most common issues, is wick that is too tightly compressed, and/or a tight fit in the coil... either of which will serve to constrict capillary action to wick-in-coil.
Probably because, in a previous life, I was a technical instructor at a private trade school.
Otherwise... I'm as dumb (and old) as a rock. ;-)
Sorry, forgot to mention it's a 27 gauge kanthal wire. How will I know if the intake is too open or too restricted? Or if it is in fact the cotton?
Due to the even thicker wire, your HF is lower than I thought.
This is a single coil, or dual parallel coils... and the net resistance is 2.0Ω?
What size is the mandrel you built the coil on? See... 27 gauge is really the wrong wire for such a high resistance value and low wattage output. On a 2mm mandrel, with typical 6mm worth of leg length, that's like... 17 wraps. On a 3mm mandrel, it's still a fairly long, but far more reasonable 12 wraps.
A 2.0Ω single coil at only 10 watts is a stone cold 63 mW/mm² heat flux. You should have at least 150 mW/mm². If you made no changes to the build, you'd need 24 watts to obtain an HF of 150.
It's a dual coil build what's odd is even at 10 watts occasionally if I take a drag I scorch my throat.
Going to try and rebuild and bear in mind that it seems like less cotton is in fact more.
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