All eGo T TypeB not equal?

[gary777]

I have taken two new eGo T's Type B attys, removed the spike plate, blew them both out with short bursts of caned air,
got the primer out of both, but one draws a lot harder than the other.

The intake air path starts from hole in the center of the threaded end, right?
What path does the air take, through center of the hole in atty, then through the insulation around the coil up the tank?

 

[Kent C]

I have taken two new eGo T's Type B attys, removed the spike plate, blew them both out with short bursts of caned air,
got the primer out of both, but one draws a lot harder than the other.

The intake air path starts from hole in the center of the threaded end, right?
What path does the air take, through center of the hole in atty, then through the insulation around the coil up the tank?

Actually, although you can't see it unless you cut one up - there are the same air holes in the side of the fitting just above the threads like any other atty. This is a mega eGo carto but I assure you the attys are the same. You can best see the air hole in the second picture of the one on the left:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cts-maam-no-chit-chat-please.html#post1696449

You'll maybe get some through the center hole but mainly on the side ones - no good way to 'clear them' other than a vodka/everclear soak. You might get a dental pick in there.... but most hard draws are from around the coil and yeah - there are some variations in all attys - this one being new is a pain. Build up gunk can cause it but not in a new one To make sure it's the atty - and not the tank, check the small rectangular slots in the battery where the air is pulled through by the button - some big fingers can block those... but make sure they're clear then just using the atty without batt or tank - check the draw - puff/draw. If too tight, I'd consider sending that one back. Sometimes you can get clogs along the flat air channels in the tank or at the mouth hole - I usually take out that second (inner) baffle for a cleaner draw.... Hope that helps.

 

[gary777]

Kent, now I am getting a good idea of how atomizers work, photos were a great help, as were your comments, just what I was looking for. In the eGo T type B atty, there is only one hole on the side, I did plug the center hole, and as you said, there was very little difference in draw if any with it plugged. The hole in the side then, must be where the juice leaks out when someone has a leaker. I will take out the inner baffle on the one with the hard draw one tomorrow.

I know it is easier to buy new ones, but that's no fun. I have also been going through a lot of wicks and found the placement of these will affect the draw some what also. I ruined a lot of wicks though, buy all the adjustments, but I have a lot of extra attys The more questions I ask and replies I get like yours and others here, are really helping me understand how to maintain the attys, wicks, and tanks...Thank you so much for the info.

I have taken two new eGo T's Type B attys, removed the spike plate, blew them both out with short bursts of caned air,
got the primer out of both, but one draws a lot harder than the other.

The intake air path starts from hole in the center of the threaded end, right?
What path does the air take, through center of the hole in atty, then through the insulation around the coil up the tank?

Actually, although you can't see it unless you cut one up - there are the same air holes in the side of the fitting just above the threads like any other atty. This is a mega eGo carto but I assure you the attys are the same. You can best see the air hole in the second picture of the one on the left:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cts-maam-no-chit-chat-please.html#post1696449

You'll maybe get some through the center hole but mainly on the side ones - no good way to 'clear them' other than a vodka/everclear soak. You might get a dental pick in there.... but most hard draws are from around the coil and yeah - there are some variations in all attys - this one being new is a pain. Build up gunk can cause it but not in a new one To make sure it's the atty - and not the tank, check the small rectangular slots in the battery where the air is pulled through by the button - some big fingers can block those... but make sure they're clear then just using the atty without batt or tank - check the draw - puff/draw. If too tight, I'd consider sending that one back. Sometimes you can get clogs along the flat air channels in the tank or at the mouth hole - I usually take out that second (inner) baffle for a cleaner draw.... Hope that helps.

 

[Kent C]

Kent, now I am getting a good idea of how atomizers work, photos were a great help, as were your comments, just what I was looking for. In the eGo T type B atty, there is only one hole on the side, I did plug the center hole, and as you said, there was very little difference in draw if any with it plugged. The hole in the side then, must be where the juice leaks out when someone has a leaker. I will take out the inner baffle on the one with the hard draw one tomorrow.

I know it is easier to buy new ones, but that's no fun. I have also been going through a lot of wicks and found the placement of these will affect the draw some what also. I ruined a lot of wicks though, buy all the adjustments, but I have a lot of extra attys The more questions I ask and replies I get like yours and others here, are really helping me understand how to maintain the attys, wicks, and tanks...Thank you so much for the info.

Actually I should have mentioned the wicks as well - the 'mesh' holding the wicks in the spike could also be a bit bulky but also the wick - maybe someone put a few too many strands in tightening the space in the spike. But the main airflow through the eGo-t atty is around the flat parts in the plate that holds the spike. Just for the heck of it - try aligning the flat part of the tank up with the 'holes' in the spike plate - you might not have the button aligned with the angle of the mouthpiece but if that helps, you could turn the spike plate with a dental pick to align.... There shouldn't be a difference but who knows on the tolerances of the tank cap on the plate?

But you said that without the tank there is still the obstruction so it probably isn't that..... Some blockage around the coil or something. You might pull the plate and take a look.

eGo-t wick adjustment - YouTube

 

[gary777]

Kent, I replied to your last post, telling all you what I was going to do but I do not see it.

Anyway I Took an old atty and cut it down to where the spike plate inserts, used a pipe cutter, it came out really well. After a lot of looking, I now know the full path of the air flow, it is quite different than what I thought it would be. also looked at how the wick lays

I did find that by aligning the flat side of the tank with the open sides of the spike did help give a lot better draw. I noticed that out of 6 different attys the coils were all in set to different depths in the ceramic? coil holder. The coil holder it self had four or five hole on the side to let air flow plus a slot the bottom below the coil. the insulation that the coil sets in also allows air to flow through it. I see now there are a lot of thing that can impede air flow. besides the difference in coil depth there were some other subtle differences in the attys I compared. As you said, tolerances vary some what from atty to atty, and could cause minor problems.

I did run a stiff wire from the threaded end all the way up to the slot in the bottom coil holder just barely touching the coil, then backed off a hair and cleaned it up by using the stiff wire like you would a pipe cleaner. None of this is really hard, once you take a few apart and see just what you are dealing with. When I say take apart, I mean I took everything apart, on bad atty of course. I got three working good for now and two nib. Now at least I can give them a good cleaning twice a week now that at least I have a good idea of what I am doing? I was buying two attys every week.

I will try and put together photos like the ones in the link you had in your post. I am not that good at that sort of thing but I'll give it a try and see how it goes.....

Actually I should have mentioned the wicks as well - the 'mesh' holding the wicks in the spike could also be a bit bulky but also the wick - maybe someone put a few too many strands in tightening the space in the spike. But the main airflow through the eGo-t atty is around the flat parts in the plate that holds the spike. Just for the heck of it - try aligning the flat part of the tank up with the 'holes' in the spike plate - you might not have the button aligned with the angle of the mouthpiece but if that helps, you could turn the spike plate with a dental pick to align.... There shouldn't be a difference but who knows on the tolerances of the tank cap on the plate?

But you said that without the tank there is still the obstruction so it probably isn't that..... Some blockage around the coil or something. You might pull the plate and take a look.

eGo-t wick adjustment - YouTube

 

[Kent C]

Gary, lol - there's no better way to become an expert in this than autopsy It really shows what's going on. Getting down the various wattages is important as well - as heat affects flavor. A good chart for that is here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cts-maam-no-chit-chat-please.html#post1687242

For eGo's you have regular eGo's running at 3.2-3.4V under load. You have SE Riva's (liberty flights) running at 3.7v under load and you have eGo attys that run from 1.5Ω to @2.3Ω.

That info and the 'airflow' and tank issues is what you need to make the perfect eGo vape. And it saves you $$ too by not trying every new thing as a 'solution' and there are no 'plug and play' PV's.

Pictures would be great to show others, now that you know.

Kent, I replied to your last post, telling all you what I was going to do but I do not see it.

Anyway I Took an old atty and cut it down to where the spike plate inserts, used a pipe cutter, it came out really well. After a lot of looking, I now know the full path of the air flow, it is quite different than what I thought it would be. also looked at how the wick lays

I did find that by aligning the flat side of the tank with the open sides of the spike did help give a lot better draw. I noticed that out of 6 different attys the coils were all in set to different depths in the ceramic? coil holder. The coil holder it self had four or five hole on the side to let air flow plus a slot the bottom below the coil. the insulation that the coil sets in also allows air to flow through it. I see now there are a lot of thing that can impede air flow. besides the difference in coil depth there were some other subtle differences in the attys I compared. As you said, tolerances vary some what from atty to atty, and could cause minor problems.

I did run a stiff wire from the threaded end all the way up to the slot in the bottom coil holder just barely touching the coil, then backed off a hair and cleaned it up by using the stiff wire like you would a pipe cleaner. None of this is really hard, once you take a few apart and see just what you are dealing with. When I say take apart, I mean I took everything apart, on bad atty of course. I got three working good for now and two nib. Now at least I can give them a good cleaning twice a week now that at least I have a good idea of what I am doing? I was buying two attys every week.

I will try and put together photos like the ones in the link you had in your post. I am not that good at that sort of thing but I'll give it a try and see how it goes.....