All my mods part1

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kwcharlie

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I don't know br, at only 1 ohms i don't think the 225 could make enough amps at a low enough voltage not to smelt the copper and SS mesh, waiting to see what they come up with THEN work on how to get the power supply off his bench and in hand, it will be a challenge for sure if his ohms stay that low. Did you notice the new Fluke Thermal Imaging cam on pailpoe's bench? nice toy, with tools like that they should go somewhere of at least find out where not to go, LUCK TO YOU ALL, now back to lurking and bugging br
 
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WillyB

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Smaler is nice but think about that you have to make new coils every 3-4days. Smaller units are a pain to make coils.

That seems to be at odds with some of Raidy's comments I've saved.
What do you see?

The stainless steel mesh, the kanthal-wire and the port to refuel.

1) It's a stainless steel mesh with 37-57Micromters.
2) It's oxidated with a lighter, for 3 times.
3) This oxidation makes a not conductive skin on the mesh
4) the mesh has an capillar-effect, wich brings all the time the liquid from the tank to the top. You not need to invert it.
5) This system gives a 10-50 time higher lifetime to the atty.
6) Changing mesh an Kanthal (the resitor-wire) need ony 3-4 minutes.
 

Quick1

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That seems to be at odds with some of Raidy's comments I've saved.

In use, the kanthal isn't supposed to get hot enough to glow? so that should take a really long time to burn out (if ever). and I got the impression that changing the mesh was only because it may get clogged after a while with juice residue? I was kind of thinking that these should be approaching a permanent atty/carto.
 

asdaq

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I think that by atty life the coil might not be included. For the wick certainly. I haven't had mine working for 3-4 days yet, but I suspect the crud on the coil will need attention. Raidy did say it only needs washing under hot water, but that might be the mesh only.

My l3oertije style would last a week max before the wick and coil needed replacing. I washed a set and it got both the Ofenschnur and wire clean, but the wick remained discolored, so I just re-wrapped the same nichrome over a different section of the wick.

I'm pretty sure raidy meant the whole atty was to be washed with hot water.
 

Quick1

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hi guys
i thought first it was a mistake by me that i have to change the Kanthal every 3-4 days.
But i aksed in the ERF and they told me it is normal.
The meshroll i usually wash under running water or boil them in water and work good.

What happens with the kanthal that you need to change it? Does it burn through? or get crusted? or ...?
 

ArtificialReef

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To all readers of this thread
One question I have: Who reads all this thread and has not yet spoken up? Just give me a short hello please!:)

Hi Raidy, I just wanted to say thank you for sharing how to make this atomizer. I was wishing that I could learn how to make them, but was afraid that it was beyond me. Your generosity is beyond appreciated here!!
 
Has Raidy abandoned this thread and/or these boards?
I really hope not as I'm patiently waiting for part 2 to be posted so those of us who are/will be building our own will have specifics.
I see pailpoe has made a similar atty, but I really question the functionality of it, especially at a realistiv voltage/wattage... and, in my opinion only, it seems as though pailpoe is overdoing it and I personally get the "hey everyone, look what I made, it's so much better than that other one. look at me look at me!" (not trying to flame, but seriously.. I think he's pretty much spamming at this point..) and I just hope it's not making Raidy reluctant to continue sharing info about the genesis with us.
 

pailpoe

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IMPORTANT

This is not spam. I'm french so my steps before any development is on the French forum. I have begun this project in the spirit of making a personal Mod on the principle of the atomizer genesis . I got a new type of atomizer or there is no filament and the maximum power absorbed by this system is just enormous.
For me, the filament atomizer is dead now and
we start on new foundations.
The principal of this atomizer is the production of heat in the lower electrode by contact on the contact surface between the drill steel and the inside of the lower electrode which is immersed in the liquid.

Pailpoe,

Sorry for my english...
 
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