Just a wild guess but here is what I think may have happened. The mesh wasn't oxidised so well. The coil wire was "shorting" through the mesh. So you ended up with a very short length of wire. Wire from the first lead to the mesh, straight through the mesh, and then a short length of wire to the second lead. When you moved the wire it was over a better oxidised bit of mesh and the current then flowed through the entire coil and not through the mesh. just a guess.
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Just a wild guess but here is what I think may have happened. The mesh wasn't oxidised so well. The coil wire was "shorting" through the mesh. So you ended up with a very short length of wire. Wire from the first lead to the mesh, straight through the mesh, and then a short length of wire to the second lead. When you moved the wire it was over a better oxidised bit of mesh and the current then flowed through the entire coil and not through the mesh. just a guess.
I will try to oxidise mor times the mesh, but I still having doubts, because I test with the multimeter all the steps and the resistance is OK and the continuity of the mesh after oxidisation is 0.
Glowing anything can also be a sign that it's conducting where it shouldn't. Wiggling the wick or coil gets the spots to not touch and then after some use the oxidization completes and the problem is gone.
Thanks gummy that flow chart got me fired! 
I think the wick is oxidized properly so the only other problem could be the wicking. I'll try putting some more mesh in (Should be fun...). I would like to be able to take 5 hits with 5-10 second delays without any wicking problems. Thanks for the help. I want to join the genisis club!
I think the wick is oxidized properly so the only other problem could be the wicking. I'll try putting some more mesh in (Should be fun...). I would like to be able to take 5 hits with 5-10 second delays without any wicking problems. Thanks for the help. I want to join the genisis club!Really? Teflon starts to degrade at 280°C and gives off toxic gasses ( including Phosgene) at 330°C, according to Dupont.
Earlier 'raidy' showed instructions for using a piece of ceramic tile and later a piece of cork. The cork was just for testing and not long term use. Ceramic would be good.
I use PTFE in mini Genesis. The temeperature on the mesh is about 250°C max. I use it almost all day and I'm still alive
If I suddenly disappear from this forum than you know what should you do .... don't use PTFE
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So you think these atties/coils are generating well over 530° Fahrenheit? Hello Throat Hit.
If that's the case then any glycerin based juices should also be avoided as it will release toxic acrolein fumes at about 400°F.
Yes.
except that the flash/vaporization point of glycerin based juices is way below 400*F. Maybe you could do it if you vaped in a pressure chamber but I doubt you could inflate your lungs to inhale.
How are you guys doing that? I rolled up 14 mm of mesh and it made a fairly tight roll of 2 mm diameter. I might be able to get the very first roll just a bit tighter... I was going to try 20 mm and roll it to the same diameter.
I roll 20mm into 1.9mm easily, and is tight, yes. Try this: Roll the 20mm into any OD that you can at the first time, and then, continue rolling and tighting the tube between your fingers until you get the 2mm OD.
I used 325 mesh for the inside roll and 400 as the outer roll. I rolled the 400 to the size I wanted then took 325 and rolled as thin as I could twisting diagonally making the ends telescope out. then unrolled the 400 a bit and tightened it back down with the 325 now in the middle. Hope that made sense. I didnt make the 325 long enough but its 3/4 through and still vapes to the bottom. There isn't any hole through the middle it's just packed with mesh.
I managed with 400 mesh. (hand roll cigarette skills...)
14 cm into a 1.9 dia
20 cm into a 1.9 dia
30 cm into a 2.0 dia
Found that if I cut the mesh with a knife like you would cut pizza -- place long knife on mesh and just press down it puts a bend at the very edge and you can start a tight roll with no space in the center.
Some observations: With the 14 cm roll and 3 full wraps of kanthal (2.2 ohms) it wasn't producing enough.
Went to the 30 cm roll and 3 full wraps of kanthal (2.0 ohms) it still wasn't producing correctly but...
With the 30 cm roll I would fire it and watch. After it heated up in about 2 seconds it would sit there and "spit" and pop. I looked closely and it appeared that juice in the center of the roll was boiling. So maybe too much juice. I am assuming you want just enough so that it vaporizes but not too much so it boils.
Naturally all this is dependent on cooling/air flow. When trying it without the cap on I blow gently on it.
So I need to tune for:
My VG juice
The air flow with the size air hole that is going to give me the draw that I prefer
And the coil heat (size of kanthal and length)
I think those are the 3 main variables. Unfortunately my tank broke so I'm out of the genisis business for a few days...
14 cm into a 1.9 dia
20 cm into a 1.9 dia
30 cm into a 2.0 dia
Found that if I cut the mesh with a knife like you would cut pizza -- place long knife on mesh and just press down it puts a bend at the very edge and you can start a tight roll with no space in the center.
Some observations: With the 14 cm roll and 3 full wraps of kanthal (2.2 ohms) it wasn't producing enough.
Went to the 30 cm roll and 3 full wraps of kanthal (2.0 ohms) it still wasn't producing correctly but...
With the 30 cm roll I would fire it and watch. After it heated up in about 2 seconds it would sit there and "spit" and pop. I looked closely and it appeared that juice in the center of the roll was boiling. So maybe too much juice. I am assuming you want just enough so that it vaporizes but not too much so it boils.
Naturally all this is dependent on cooling/air flow. When trying it without the cap on I blow gently on it.
So I need to tune for:
My VG juice
The air flow with the size air hole that is going to give me the draw that I prefer
And the coil heat (size of kanthal and length)
I think those are the 3 main variables. Unfortunately my tank broke so I'm out of the genisis business for a few days...
Sorry to hear about the tank breakage.
(but we'd love to see a pic of the carnage)
(but we'd love to see a pic of the carnage)
Sorry to hear about the tank breakage.
(but we'd love to see a pic of the carnage)
If I have any money left after dental work I'm going to buy myself a decent camera after Xmas. 10 yr old Kodak sucks on macro, Droid 2 cell phone sucks on macro. About the only pictures I take need a macro...
It's simply a stress fracture from the top edge about half way down, but it leaks... I may try a temporary fix and epoxy it. got to make sure I don't weld the top cap to it though.
I have had a few of my lexan tanks crack too. Perhaps I should rethink that stuff and go for something a bit more flexible.
I dropped my clear mod and three days latter it has a set of small hairline cracks on the top of the tube.
I dropped my clear mod and three days latter it has a set of small hairline cracks on the top of the tube.
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Doh... your lexan stress fractured? I thinking I'd go from acrylic to lexan and was feeling pretty good about that. drat. Ok, plan B is (flexible) vinyl tubing. I was thinking that with a 1/8" wall it might be fairly stiff in that length for enough structural rigidity but stretch with no chance of fracture and maybe even hold a seal.
Where are you getting your lexan from? I'm looking for 16mm I.D. and 20mm O.D. I suppose I could do some sanding. So far all I've found are in inches (5/8") which is about .005 inches too tight.
Where are you getting your lexan from? I'm looking for 16mm I.D. and 20mm O.D. I suppose I could do some sanding. So far all I've found are in inches (5/8") which is about .005 inches too tight.
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