almost 2 week old thread still unsolved.

[veganvap]

I cross post linked this before but it got modded, please just leave the link here because aparently no-one in the forum it's posted to can help, and it's really holding me back that I can't figure this out. You can delete this thread you're reading now after the linked one's been solved. Thanks
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rts-atomizer-but-different-battery-works.html

 

[Kable]

650 mAh and lower batteries usually can't supply a high current. You might be getting shorts somewhere that are causing the resistance to be too low, and the battery can't supply the current required. Alternatively, the pin on the t3 might not be making contact with the smaller battery. Try pulling the pin on the T3 a little. You should really have an ohmmeter if you're going to be using rebuilt coils, though.

 

[mostlyclassics]

I second Kable's observation. You really need a multimeter if you're rebuilding coils. Look at it this way: a usable and accurate multimeter will cost you about $10 maximum, with many being in the $5-6 range. The eGo battery you fry thanks to a short probably cost you more than that.

 

[Thompson]

I've tried out coils I know work on other devices, including eGo-C, that refuse to fire on the eGo-T. They were all above 2Ω too, so I found it rather confusing myself.

My assumption is along with Kable's, that its an amp limitation or its detecting a short (that may or may not exist), and its kicking in protection to save from frying its circuitry. The more I think about it, the less sense this makes though because...

As I said, they are all in an acceptable ohm range for an eGo-T (I figure this range to be 1.7 - 3Ω for our purposes). I don't see any shorts, nor do any of my other PVs detect one and shut down.

There is something particular about eGo-T that cause this.

That said, a multimeter never hurts. But mine doesn't show anything odd going on (jumping measurements) and they still can't fire on this eGo-T 650 PT.

 

[veganvap]

i just returned two $5 defective Harbor freight Multimeters. For now, I just rely on what people say what # of wraps with what gauge kanthal = what ohms because I usually find my sweet spot of most vapor and flavor without burning the wick regardless of what the 'chart' says. It doesn't really matter as long as I get it close.

But, anyway, I tried pulling the positive pin from the T3 base but that didn't help. I tried everything from a single tiny wrap to about 13 wraps of coil. They were all built perfectly but don't work, but the battery works with factory-built 1.5 to 2.8 ohm heads. ?? All I can think is that the battery's not compatable with A-1 Kanthal and maybe the stock coils were build with D kanthal or nicrome or something?
I'm not worried about frying the 650mah doing trial and errors.
Still wondering how I can't pop a coil on purpose too?

 

[Thompson]

I personally feel the protection is good on JoyeTech/Ovale eGos, but I wouldn't rely on it. Multimeters are a tool, and like any other $ in = quality out. While a sub $10 should work, spending a touch more is absolutely worth it. Or try and borrow somebodies.

I also don't think the batteries are capable of detecting wire type. None of the expensive apv do.

So it's still something odd, hardware based. A question for the minds behind the design.

As far as popping coils, I've only gotten 2 to do it, both kanthal-a1 30awg, both 3+ weeks old so presumably stressed, pocked & otherwise destroyed from use. Completely by accident, over pulsing while adjusting.

Faxed in on the Mojo Wire

 

[veganvap]

I knew it, it was the Kanthal that I purchased that caused the problem. I bought it here from Tankecigs.com
http://www.tankecigs.com/Kanthal-A-1-Wire-32-Gauge-008-p/ka1.htm

I got a $400 high-end Multimeter
I built a 2.0ohm coil = didn't work.
I checked the ohms of the factoy-built 2.8 vivi nova that works on the battery I'm talking about. It reads 2.6 on the meter, so the battery can handle 2.6ohm.
I built a 1.7 = it worked for 2 seconds then the battery turned off and flashed. I screwed the tank on more and it just flashed. I saw that all connections were perfect, nothing was touching the inside of the head, made the tank's + pin stick out more, etc, but it just flashed.

I built a 1.6ohm = got it to light up and pop the coil when I found a sweet spot during screwing on the tank, but the coil wasn't touching the sides or anything, it just popped.

I made a 1.4ohm = got it to light up for a second while finding a spot during screwing it on, but that was it, and it just flashed.

All the coils I made worked fine with a 1300mah vision spinner that gives me no problems.

These^ were all T3 heads. Next, I tried vivi nova rebuilds:
I took the wire out of a factory-built vivi nova head and made a 1.8ohm T3 coil with it = IT WORKED PERFECTLY. It must be the wire I bought from tankecigs.com

I put a lighter to the wire I bought before building with it and also didn't do that, but it doesn't work either way with this battery.

I built a 2.8 vivi nova head with the kanthal I bought from tankecig = same thing as before, it only works on the 1300mah vision spinner.

Maybe tankecig sent me banjo string or something. I'm gonna link all these threads to them and see if they send a free, better spool, and if they don't, I'll post everywhere that they're theives and shady businessmen. Or is the battery the problem? The batterie's only about 2 years old though, again, it's a 650mah standard 3.7V Passthough non-variable volt eGo. It works fine with coils not made with the wire tankecigs.com sent me.

 

[Kable]

Or is it that the battery is the problem?

This. I wouldn't blame the company that sold you the wire because rebuilt coils don't work on a 2 year old 650 mAh ego battery. After all, they work on your other battery. It is strange that other coils with the same impedance work on it, though.

 

[veganvap]

bump
Or is the battery the problem?

 

[Thrasher]

lol a 2 year old ego- im surprised at this point the light even comes on. i would def relegate that one to the not used bin and move on.

heck its so old who knows whats going on inside with the electronics.

beyond the battery there is a slight chance the wire is mislabeled and a different gauge then what it says and possibly your building coils with too low a resistance. (not common but has happened with other vendors).

but i cant get over the 2YO battery thing. i would think the limits and or safety features (if there even is any) is a lot different then the ones now.

 

[DarklyNoon]

There's a short somewhere that's causing the current to trip the amp limit of the battery... IIRC this can damage the mosfet in the battery.

Older batteries most likely have lower amp limits.

These are the reasons most prefer mechanical mods with safer chemistry batteries (IMR; AW and MNKE) with rebuildables.

There are some great inexpensive mechanical mods out there, such as the Smok Telescope, or the new Smok Natural.

If you're liking rebuildables, I recommend looking into upgrading your equipment.



Sent from Android using TapaTalk

 

[I B Brett]

I some time think that these "Smart Devices" are just to smart of their own good ! I've had the same problem with my 650 pass thru and finally just got rid of it ! End Of Story !

 

[veganvap]

"lol a 2 year old ego- im surprised at this point the light even comes on. i would def relegate that one to the not used bin and move on.

heck its so old who knows whats going on inside with the electronics.

beyond the battery there is a slight chance the wire is mislabeled and a different gauge then what it says and possibly your building coils with too low a resistance. (not common but has happened with other vendors)."

but i cant get over the 2YO battery thing. i would think the limits and or safety features (if there even is any) is a lot different then the ones now."

"There's a short somewhere that's causing the current to trip the amp limit of the battery"

2 years for a barely used battery is old?

I checked the coils I built with a $400 multimeter. To make sure the $400 meter was accurate, I checked factory-made coils with it and they were exact or off by .2 of what they state they are . The battery works perfectly fine unless I put a coil on it made with the kanthal I bought. There were no shorts anywhere, the problem only happens when I use a coil made from the kanthal that I bought.

I don't really care about the battery, I'm just curious for an answer.

 

[Underwhelmed]

Use your expensive multimeter to measure the resistance of your bought wire to figure out if it is indeed mislabeled.

 

[veganvap]

that's not the point. the point's that I measured the coils after I built them and they were ok-range and should have worked except that the kanthal is the factor.

 

[DaveP]

Are you absolutely sure that none of the coils are touching each other in the wrap? Do you wrap on the wick or do you wrap on a stick and then slide the coil over the wick? Reading the resistance should be done again after the wick/coil is installed on the head to make sure the center wire isn't touching the outer part of the tube. I'm sure you are probably doing everything right. I'm just asking dumb questions because nothing seems to make sense if your resistance readings are right.

Ego batteries usually flash at current draws around 2.5 amps. Some older batteries might have changed over time and others might have lower cutoff points from design changes or manufacturing variances. Electronics aren't infallible.

 

[veganvap]

^ I never even used a wick, I just built them to test by wrapping wire around a brad nail. The coil wraps didn't touch, I even tried just making one big loop (or small) with no wraps, just a loop of wire. I made the leads to the big 10 and 12 etc wrap coils I made (which I now know is way too many wraps to expect to work regardless) long so that the coil wrap petruded out of the coil head assembly because there wasn't enough room in there for 10 or 12 wraps that weren't even touchign sides. I only ever checked the ohm after biulding the coil. It's not about building coils correctly, no shorts, ohms too hogh or low, etc. I tried everything and concluded that it's only because of the wire used.

Al I can think of is that since A-1 kanthal (which isn't working on the battery) is the more expensive one and has a different composition compared to D and maybe nichrome which Kanger and Vivi etc likely make their factory coils with to save money. I guess the eGO was built differently about 2 years ago (maybe 2.5 years ago this ego was made) and just doesn't work with A-1 wire. Aparently no-one else has heard of this problem because most people who rebuilt with eGOs weren't doing so about 2 years ago because the EGo clearomizers weren't at all rebuildable, and if they were, they'd have to be using A-1 to have the same problem, which not everyone uses. Aparently no-one still has 2-year old eGos beacuse unlike this one, they were used enough to reach end of lifespan and be recycled. The battery could also be a knockoff adding to how 'egos might have been built differently 2 years ago', but I doubt it since it was bought in-store from a large scale successful vendor.

 

[classwife]

This is the 4th thread that you have opened on this.

2/19
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rts-atomizer-but-different-battery-works.html
2/21
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...orking-one-battery-but-not-different-one.html
2/24
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...y-but-not-another-cant-purposly-pop-coil.html


Closed.



Edit : Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems