Yes, but the output is limited, I think around 10W. The more the output power, the bigger the booster.
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Yes, but the output is limited, I think around 10W. The more the output power, the bigger the booster.
I'm pretty sure all those claims are false... I've done some testing with teh stock 14650 and an AW IMR 14500.. I posted the results way earlier in the thread but here they are again..
STOCK 14650 battery, open circuit voltage: 4.02
STOCK 14650 battery, wired directly to 2.0ohm carto: 3.35
STOCK 14650 battery, wired directly to 3.0ohm carto: 3.52
E-power voltage, no load: 4.01
E-power voltage, 2.0 ohm load: 3.33
E-power voltage, 3.0 ohm load: 3.48
***AW 14500 IMR Test results
open circuit battery: 4.22v
e-power(with 14500 IMR), no load: 4.21v
e-power(with 14500 IMR), 3.0 ohm load: 3.97v
e-power(with 14500IMR), 2.0 ohm load: 3.88v
Definitely doesn't look like any sort of regulation, seeing as I can get almost 4v under load with a 3.0ohm carto with an AW IMR 14500.. the low voltage cutout for the switch is 3.6v.. let me discharge these AW cells some and I'll do some more tests.. so far it doesn't look like it though.
ok so then its simply an unregulated tougher mosfet type switch unit or is it actually a physical switch?.....
Nobody knows, all just guesses. Someone is going to cut one up maybe. If you got one and you like it, whoopeee. If not, oh well, there arent any actual specs that tell you what you bought anyway apparently, so tough noogies. The thing isn't priced very high but I don't really understand why anyone would care about a replaceable batt in a device that has no real features.
You nailed it. THAT, my friend, is the question. And why I started the thread.
(also it could have been regulated.....) lol.I think it's at least a mosfet in there. Someone said a whole board with processor.....
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IDK. I'm still thinking about the whole purchase. Look at it from my perspective....
1) I make 3.7v unregulated and 5v regulated mods anyway. I''d like a nice/finished/inexpensive mod ('cuz I'm broke ATM).... I'll consider going to 3.7 with 2.0 ohm atties... was getting tired of the square DIY boxes.
2) I already have the battery charger. So cool. Need to get 18650's... meh. No biggie
3) Now I hear that there's no concrete/accurate info on this thing. We have to figure it out. And...
4) The paint peels off em. (for the black ones.... this is from other threads mostly)
I think they are cool devices tho. I've suggested that others investigate them. I think the replaceable battery concept is dead-on smart.
The regulated/unregulated issue is more important to me for selecting the atomizer than anything else. Regulated (modulated) would give more consistent performance and avoid burning at the top end of the battery curve. OTOH... if I'm going to have to paint it myself just to keep it looking good two weeks out... the low price starts to lose it's appeal. Guess I could always clear-coat it before use.
I have access to some used eGo units.... I can just go with that for now until they get their crap together.
I know, I know.... you can have it cheap, have it quick, have quality. Pick any two. But mass production is supposed to level all this out a bit.....
Sigh.
1) I make 3.7v unregulated and 5v regulated mods anyway. I''d like a nice/finished/inexpensive mod ('cuz I'm broke ATM).... I'll consider going to 3.7 with 2.0 ohm atties... was getting tired of the square DIY boxes.
2) I already have the battery charger. So cool. Need to get 18650's... meh. No biggie
3) Now I hear that there's no concrete/accurate info on this thing. We have to figure it out. And...
4) The paint peels off em. (for the black ones.... this is from other threads mostly)
I think they are cool devices tho. I've suggested that others investigate them. I think the replaceable battery concept is dead-on smart.
The regulated/unregulated issue is more important to me for selecting the atomizer than anything else. Regulated (modulated) would give more consistent performance and avoid burning at the top end of the battery curve. OTOH... if I'm going to have to paint it myself just to keep it looking good two weeks out... the low price starts to lose it's appeal. Guess I could always clear-coat it before use.
I have access to some used eGo units.... I can just go with that for now until they get their crap together.
I know, I know.... you can have it cheap, have it quick, have quality. Pick any two. But mass production is supposed to level all this out a bit.....
Sigh.
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Agreed in general. I don't own a lathe, and can't make the fine threads anyway (taps/dies). A production unit like this is appealing to me (at least gets me thinking about it) because:
1) It may be regulated, which gives a performance consistency feature over the unregulated 3.7 box mods I build.
2) Nice finished look.
3) I already have a charger. Will need 14650 batteries vs 14500's. Meh. OK
So I'd spend 10 bucks or more with making a tube mod... not counting my time/labor. Since I don't have a late, and can't make my own finished unit for fun... I thought I'd investigate. Plus, I was in other threads talking about it, so I was checking it out.........
In other words.... If I'd make a tube mod "for fun" with a mosfet or even modulated... and finish it..... why not just get this one? Same stuffis. Less bulky. Maybe.
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Well, I don't know if this is useful to you, but I do understand #2, at least a little. When I go out in public for any period of time I use one of these, in stainless steel and cartomizers. They're out of it right now, but they are pretty nice looking in stainlesss steel. They are about 4 inches long and hit hard.
vGo Battery
edit: adding a pic of mine in stainless steel.
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Jazzcartopipe has some 5V regulated switches for the 18650 noego coming soon hopefully. You would need the 18350 batteries for it. I just got some batteries in anticipation plus I am making my own VV/PWM switch body for it also. I will post some pics of the factory board for the 18650 version this evening.
FYI: I am biased because I like the 18650 noego very much. I am currently using it with 2.0 carto's because I got tired of my DC's clogging up all the time. It does fire the 1.25 DC's very well.
Edit: the only chipping I have experienced is from dropping on the concrete after about a month and a half with the black one. The chrome one looks slick but it's a finger print magnet...
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Here are the pic of the factory 18650 switch board.
There are no marking on the chip so I assume it is a pmic ...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
There are no marking on the chip so I assume it is a pmic ...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
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bstedH,
That's a cool circuit, however without regulation (i.e. feedback) an open-loop PWM circuit's output voltage would just go down as the battery voltage goes down, no matter what setting you set it at. So you would constantly need to adjust the voltage as the battery discharges, which kind of defeats the purpose of having VV, no?
Why not put a simple buck switcher in there, those kinds of circuits are very cheap and can be made fairly small. That way the output volatge would stay constant.
That's a cool circuit, however without regulation (i.e. feedback) an open-loop PWM circuit's output voltage would just go down as the battery voltage goes down, no matter what setting you set it at. So you would constantly need to adjust the voltage as the battery discharges, which kind of defeats the purpose of having VV, no?
Why not put a simple buck switcher in there, those kinds of circuits are very cheap and can be made fairly small. That way the output volatge would stay constant.
The output power is limited to 10W only because that's the most the eGo battery can produce. The booster circuit itself can supply up to 16.5 watts, if the battery can handle the power.
The maximum is 5.5 V at 3A = 16.5 watts. Its limited to 4.7 Volts because of the eGo Battery.
Nice little story Java.
But we still have over 20 posts to get the answer to the OP.
That's my measure of success, ask a question in a forum, get an answer in under 100 posts.
So here's my post to help speed things up.
But we still have over 20 posts to get the answer to the OP.
That's my measure of success, ask a question in a forum, get an answer in under 100 posts.
So here's my post to help speed things up.
The original plan was to stuff an OKR in there but it was just a hair to large. The inductor interferes with the center contact of the atty. I am still planning on trying to stuff it in there but I have to study the board and see if I can grind a little off the edges and possibly elongate the switch body. I only have one OKR available at this time. The other consideration was to make it cost as little as possible so that if it is reproduced it can be done at minimum cost.
I am trying to make the adjustment like the adjustment of a cigarette lighter so that the actual adjustment is simple and easy to to do so it's not a hassle. The big thing I am liking about the strait PWM is that you are pulsing the full 8+V and it seems to produce more vapor. Of course I don't have a finished product as of yet to say that it will be workable in the long run. =]
Look pretty similar to the Ego-T set (a clone?) from HG for $2.40 each.
5x eGo-T electronics set - E-cigarette battery connectors Heaven Gifts
Here's a schematic from the German forums of regular eGo. Although I doubt it will make much sense.
5x eGo-T electronics set - E-cigarette battery connectors Heaven Gifts
Here's a schematic from the German forums of regular eGo. Although I doubt it will make much sense.
Thanks everyone. Note, as much fun as this thread has become, it's not my intention to reverse engineer the thing, just to find out what the heck I would be purchasing.
Meter output results mostly follow battery (in the IMR results ericdjobs posted), but bstedh put up some nice pics of unlabeled hardware.. lol.
I give up. I'm assuming it's mostly unregulated. If there's any regulation at all, it's at the very top end. Otherwise, mostly a fancy button. OK. Not much diff than my all mechanical 3.7 unregulated mods I'm using now... except for a small button mosfet ish thingy that we don't know what it is, but doesn't seem to be regulating much if anything.
Wish I could have read your story, Java, I'm sure it was good.
Thanks for the posts Rocket. 22 more to go.....
bstedh... those 5v switches coming out soon look real interesting, as I vape at 5v normally now anyway....
Meter output results mostly follow battery (in the IMR results ericdjobs posted), but bstedh put up some nice pics of unlabeled hardware.. lol.
I give up. I'm assuming it's mostly unregulated. If there's any regulation at all, it's at the very top end. Otherwise, mostly a fancy button. OK. Not much diff than my all mechanical 3.7 unregulated mods I'm using now... except for a small button mosfet ish thingy that we don't know what it is, but doesn't seem to be regulating much if anything.
Wish I could have read your story, Java, I'm sure it was good.
Thanks for the posts Rocket. 22 more to go.....
bstedh... those 5v switches coming out soon look real interesting, as I vape at 5v normally now anyway....
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Don't know if this helps but here goes. I have an 18650 epower (not ego) with 2 smok batteries that came with it. On my DVM Batt reads 4.19 and on the epower reads 3.69. Hooked up a madvapes volt meter and it just blinks and flashes. Dropped the batts to 3.6 on DVM and now the madvapes VM reads 3.61.
Any clue what that could mean? PWM over a certain voltage possibly?
Any clue what that could mean? PWM over a certain voltage possibly?
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atty, let me bump this - just got the epower but it seems to be inconsistent as to firing, reminds me very much of the sparkplug, lol
wonder if a decent battery would help?
wonder if a decent battery would help?
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