I want to thank you guy's for all your input so far on this topic. In the end I'm going to have to chuck this topic up to a misguided understanding of something I only half know about, attempting to apply that knowledge using tools that I once understood better in my youth than I do now.
The main purpose, as I have stated before, was to try and figure out why I would see such a difference in a
vaporizing experience between two different mods using the
same battery and the
same atomizer.
At first thought I could only assume that it was a difference in the way the mod's were delivering the voltage (read as amperage), keeping an open mind that it could be something else than that. I hold the information that has been passed to me via this thread as accurate and knowledgeable and have since totally dismissed the idea that it is due to an amperage loss and I'm currently entertaining any other ideas to what I have experienced.
Also as mentioned before, I do no attest to the idea that what I did was a correct testing procedure, and based on the information I have gathered, it was not.
I guess in the end the proper thing to do would be to close this thread and open a new one with a more general and less miss-leading title :? That being said, I would still like to answer the questions asked of me. After all, the more information the better!
I also forgot to mention that all the "tests" I did were only on the Magneto and no other mod as at the time I only owned that MOD.
After having read this thread, I can't help but want to un-muddy some, apparently, very muddy water.
Sorry if I'm a bit wordy... it's a character flaw...
Apology accepted
As you will soon find out, I float those same waters.
...To summarize where Jimi, K_Tech, Tbev and roadie are going, but may be too polite to come right out and say - your testing methodology and results are, at first read, incorrect - and in some instances, near impossible.
I don't believe anyone here (in thread, so far) is an accredited electrical engineer or electronics expert, but when 5 people question both your data and explanations for obtaining that data, you have to consider that you've made a misstep.
Not to say that you're lying, or delusional, or "having us on", or that we want to put you on the spot or shame you... or any other inappropriately childish behavior, but rather, I ask these questions so that we may obtain a more clear picture of
things.
If we can get a grip on your process', your data would be either accepted or declined, and if declined... hopefully an answer as to why, and perhaps recommendation for correction.
If you don't mind answering a few questions, with clear and accurate detail please -
- How much experience do you have with DMMs and have you ever worked in the field of electrical diagnostics?
My experience was once greater than it is now that I am older. As a younger lad I spent most of my days working with electronics to make tiny robots and the sort, tearing apart any spare electronic device I could and creating with that I had to work with. My direct experience with DMM's was more heavily reliant on assistance from my father who spent his whole life working in the telecommunications field. I have a basic understanding of the difference between volts, amps, DC, AC, Resistance, and connectivity and how to operate the DMM to gain a reading.
- What model Fluke and how long have you owned it - and how frequently do you use it?
Although not the only DMM I own, the one mentioned previously is a Fluke 77 Series II DMM that I have owned for a while, so it is not necessarily new. After reading a post that my DMM should not be able to do what it did, I opened it up to check the fused 10A connections. Needless to say, the fuse looked normal and had a rating of 11A.
- Are you auto-ranging, and to what range if any and what readings (including decimal point) for each test?
My Meter was set to Autorange. All amperage readings came out to a ##.# ever time it was tested.
In addition and on the physical side of things, for each test conducted -
- What test leads (and adapters), plugged into what ports... and on what switch settings?
I used the ones that came with the Meter. I plugged the black lead into the black COM port and the red lead into the 10A FUSED port. The switch was set to "A*DC*"
- And last but not least, where are you making contact with the battery, the mech and the atty - again, for each test.
For each test performed, I always made contact in the same place. When testing the batteries for amperage and voltage I made contact directly with the battery using the leads. When testing the battery in the MOD I made contact with the top of the cap and the center pin in the cap. I made no tests using the atomizer, although in hindsight I probably should have.
If this could be done in a technical presentation format, with bullet points or enumeration for easier dissemination, that'd be a bonus for me... as I didn't make it past 5th grade, and my computer is made by Etch A Sketch.
If you'd rather not spend the time and energy responding to
an overzealous, obsessive compulsive me... no harm, no foul. It's the interweb after all, so... you don't owe us, or more specifically me, anything.
Leaving people to wonder is rude
So you shorted out the battery? Multiple times?
Apparently I did, multiple times.
You know that short-circuiting batteries is a no-no, right?
I do now :? Have I mentioned that I could have done things wrong? This pretty much makes everything I just explained null in void doesn't it? :/
This all being said, what would be the correct way to test it? What other scenarios could cause the same atomizer to perform differently on two different mods using the same battery? Air temperature? I'm genuinely asking...
