another custom DNA'd woodvil :)

[turbocad6]

hey guys, i see a few of you sharing your customized reo's here so I just wanted to share the latest woodvil I just refinished. this one is a dna30, it's waterproof and submersible, even fires under water the dna chip is isolation mounted and insulated for impact and shock/vibration protection. the body is fiddleback royal black walnut, the button insert and door are finished in a white teak burl. I was seriously thinking of clearcoating this thing to a glass like gloss finish but I don't know, I just love the raw woods look and feel, checks, cracks and all, I don't think I can bring myself to clearcoat it so for now it's just an oil rubbed finish

one thing I really like about a mod like this is it's actually about the same size externally as a hana box mod but it houses 9ml of juice inside of the mod in addition to the 18650 and the dna chip

 

[olefolks]

That is one great looking mod Turbo!! Congrats!!

 

[Evilocity]

Outstanding! Looks great, I can't wait to get my hands on a woodvil.

 

[custom-classic]

That is awesome!!!
Can we get a look under the hood???

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Looks great Turbo

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Wow - great looking mod, turbo

I'd love to see the innards as well.

 

[Spydro]

I have no interest in DNA anything myself, but your mod is beautiful, simply beautiful... nice design and the execution of it.

 

[turbocad6]

thanks

under the hood is pretty tight. can't really see much because it's all sealed up but the main dna chip is in the bottom. the negative spring is silver coated beryllium copper and the positive is just a raw copper contact. the 510 is a bolt and nut type deal, all stainless steel except the lock ring so it can be soldered to. it bolts into the mod with the lock ring which is the atty grounding point after it's bolted in.

the center pin of the 510 in this one is a 2 piece design, a screw within a screw. the upper screw is the atty contact pin and is adjustable up and down with a tiny Phillips head from the top, so flush mounting and clocking an atty is easy and the 510 connection is always really tight. the atty contact pin has 4 points so it kinda digs into the atty center pin as it's tightened down for least amount of voltage drop. there are no soft seals in this 510, it's solid stainless steel with a tight threaded delrin insulator so no chance of leaks ever and pretty bulletproof to over tightening. I also did a big magnet upgrade so the door on this one snaps into place like a mouse trap and really stays put the buttons are also stainless steel. it may look frail and fragile but it's not. this thing is made to stand up to some punishment. it def isn't a stay at home mod

 

[CaptSteve]

Exceptional piece of work Turbo, typical of the high standard you've got us used to expect from a master craftsman like yourself. With all the mods you do I'm extremely impressed from the attention to the smallest detail you give. You make things look "stock" and that's something which requires heaps of talent.

I'm most impressed by your 510 assembly, not only looks fantastic but sounds from your description full proof. I would love to know more details on how you did it if you care to share

Great work buddy, thanks for sharing

 

[laurie9300]

Outstanding, love your work turbocad! I really need to get some vapable wood in my life......

 

[jifjifjif]

nice job. really nice.

 

[turbocad6]

thanks guys

Steve the 510 was a real pita and drove me nuts for a while. I tried ordering a bunch of different 510s from fatdaddy, varitube and a few other misc 510's I found here and there, but nothing really did it for me or was really good enough as a bottom feed so I decided to build my own.

originally I had the stock brass 510 shaved down with a spacer to make it flush but one day I was vaping and vaping and the atty got nice and warm, the brass acts like a heat sink so I guess it got warmed up pretty good too and this must have loosened the glue up that held the 510 into the body of the mod, so when I went to twist my atty off I winded up pulling the whole stock brass 510 out of the mod with the atty... it was then that I started thinking about a bolt in 510. I'm a long time car guy and modder/racer so I have adopted a rule for myself long ago that goes something like, if I can break it then it wasn't strong enough to begin with, anything I can break I try to redo to be stronger than it was

I started out with a bar of 316 stainless and machined it down, then threaded it and made it bolt in. at the time all the 510's I made I used a single drilled through ss screw and then used an o ring at the head to seal it and give some room for compression. this worked decently but was not so foolproof, it's possible to over tighten something like that and short it out and eventually even if you don't short it out it can get compressed enough to leak when a shorter 510'd atty is used so here I decided to try something different. I used a hard delrin insert to isolate the pin and made the pin two parts, the lower part threads through the delrin sealing it with tight threading, then the upper pin screws into the lower pin so it is adjustable

the fluid goes through the lower part of the pin then exits that side hole and goes around the upper pin

this is the upper adjustable pin, it's tiny so instead of drilling through it I made the head like a crown of thorns so it digs into the base of the 510 on the atty yet allows juice to pass around and through up to the atty, feeds fine

this is it assembled and adjusted down lower than any atty would be, then simply turn it up till it makes contact where you want it

since doing this one this way I've finally figured out a good way to make the fatdaddy 510's work great, so now I'm going to use the base of the fatdaddy 510 with my own internals and my own retaining nut rather than building the whole thing from scratch like this, plus the new way now winds up being self adjusting like the reo original 510's but with a wider range to accommodate all atties so it's just a screw it down and forget it type deal instead of this which requires adjusting each time a different atty is installed. I figured out a way to use a length of silicone tubing as the seal and the silicone tube length is long enough that it provides good compression and a really good seal. I put that info up in a different fatdaddy 510 thread

 

[Racehorse]

You are..........amazing.

I agree, don't clear coat it.

 

[CaptSteve]

Man you blow me away, how the heck do you machine so small parts? I don't even want to think about threading internally such a small screw. Ingenious but I agree it must be a serious PITA to do all that. As I told you I just received the new longer 510 FD BF's (I just got home from the flight so here is a picture)

The one on the left is the older one and on the right the new longer one. I have an idea about modding the internals, I'll try it tomorrow and let you know if it works. If
it works it'll be a spring loaded BF

Untitled

 

[turbocad6]

threading it is the easy part, getting it drilled straight through the whole way is a different story, I always have trouble trying to drill all the way through a #6 screw that's over an inch long, it almost always invariably winds up poking through the side at some point instead of going straight through just from drill bit flex no matter how well I try to line it up so in a way the 2 piece design was a help because now the lower part is a #8 instead of a #6, easier to drill without poking out the side, and also now I didn't have to drill straight through 1.25" of tiny screw, instead it's only .75" and a slightly larger screw that's one reason I've since revisited the fatdaddy's, I really love the idea of the hypo needle as a center pin, just his implementation of that is just wonky...


I have some of those longer ones you show on the right. it just doesn't work as-is at all, I have no idea what he was thinking when he designed that. actually his pictures show a different longer internal pin that mine didn't even come with. what I did with mine was drill out the delrin slightly where the spring and... oh hell just see it here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/610911-fatdaddy-bf-attachment-kit-bf-pins.html

 

[CaptSteve]

Ok I see what you've done, great idea to use silicone tubing as an insulator and for compression. I want to try drilling the small top brass spring loaded pos pin and insert the needle feed tube inside the assembly. Will play around with it tomorrow and see what I come up with and let you know.

The longer pins don't come with the new longer 510's, you have to order them separately. Here is a picture of the old vs the new longer ones

Untitled

 

[turbocad6]

are those pre drilled? I had none of those, didn't see them on his site either when I ordered mine, i did have to order the bottom feed needles separately at the time but it only came with the needles and a few o rings, no pins like that . the problem I see with that setup though is I think it's still going to leak. that and if you use those pins with the needles the contact point will be an area of resistance and additional voltage drop and potential poor connection after it's used a while, especially when juice is going to go between the ss needle and the brass pin, the brass has the + but the ss needle is what's actually contacting the atty so theres an additional electrical connection there that doesn't need to be, especially just a slip loose fit between ss and brass. also there is no air tight connection there and squonking can build up some pressure... I really hate any leaks inside the mod which is why the 510's have been something I've been playing with. that will potentially leak between the ss needle head and the brass pin, I also don't have much confidence in the seal between the brass pin and the housing, hell without an atty compressed down on it the o ring between the brass pin and the 510 body can actually just fall right out...

def let me know what you come up with there but honestly I think the way I modded it is so foolproof and simple. you don't really want a weak spring load, that will promote connection issues, I like my 510 connection to be high pressure between the atty pin and the mods 510 pin, the fat daddy springs are pretty weak, may work ok with a nice shiny new brass pin and a clean atty base and not very high power but in use I hate any additional resistance from the 510, that's one reason I screw mine down on the tighter side of things to begin with. I hate 510's to begin with but haven't really taken too much on the whole hybrid type bolt the atty to the mod and do away with the 510 because I do like the option of switching atties from time to time but 510's in general are usually a weak link, that fatdaddy as-is is going to be an even bigger weak link I think

 

[CaptSteve]

Yep those pins are pre drilled and have an internal diameter to accommodate the needle pis as well. I agree with everything you said, I too don't trust the way he's designed it. It may work for a non BF but in our case his system is flawed. I also distrust the spring he supplies but I will try it with another spring as well. I'll let you know how it goes and if worse comes to worse I can always use your setup which looks mighty fine.

 

[CaptSteve]

BTW these pins are here on his PDF and then you can add them to your cart in his drop down menu

http://fatdaddyvapes.com/eBay/Photos/510Guide.pdf

 

[turbocad6]

ah, I see them now in the drop down menu for the 510's, didn't even notice it before if it was there when I ordered but I don't think it was there at the time. I'm going to order some and play with them just to see but honestly I think I'm very happy with how mine turned out with just the stainless needle and silicone insulator setup.

no one has commented anything on the big magnet upgrade for the door, guess theres so much else going on here that it's easy to miss that but it has really made a huge difference for me, this is something that I'm going to do to any reo I rebuild from now on. the door snaps into place with authority and really holds well, that was always one thing that bugged me was the doors being kinda loose and easy to drop out if it's pushed down a little bit. up until now I've usually put a strip of masking tape on the edge(s) of the door to make it a tighter friction fit but that turns into a pita pretty quickly as the fit tightness changes from humidity and wood swelling. these magnets are quite a bit larger and thicker than the reo magnets so not going to work on an aluminum grand but perfect for a woodvil. there 8mm X 3mm thick neodimium super magnets

I also just redid the magnets on another woodvil and on that one I went a step further and made it fully lock, fixed in place with no movement at all. what I did was make the magnet on the body slightly recessed into the hole in the body of the reo and the magnet on the door slightly protrude sticking out from the door a matching amount , now when the door slides into place the magnet on the door actually drops into the hole on the body slightly so it gets caught and really pinned into place, locked. once that door is on it can't move up and down at all, not even slightly... to remove that door I have to lift the top of the door, pulling it out slightly and only then will it slide off, otherwise it's as tight and fixed in place like it was actually screwed on, I really love it, I've been trying to figure out an easy way to lock the door in place securely for a while and had a few more elaborate locks in mind but this turned out wonderful and really simple. it also allows me to finish the door to a perfect seamless fit from the body to the door because it don't move at all. this solves one of my last pet peeves of my reo's, now if I could only figure out a way to make the reo beep as soon as it's squonked enough to wet the wick I'd really be all set