I recently got an SX Mini SL Class. You hold the joystick in to lock the resistance. However, it was not all fun n games getting TC to work well with it. There was a firmware upgrade for the one I got too.in all fairness, it took me 10-15min to set it up and I did have to grab the manual.
The color screen is a nice touch. It feels good in the hand. There is no way to lock the resistance of the coil. (maybe it is not needed) It just reads it when you attach the atomizer. I ended up setting it for 380F (once I figured out how to change the units) as it seems the vape is warm to me.
Any inexpensive mods support single 21700 and decent TC?
- Thread starter GeorgeS
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While the 24AWG dual coil build above was fine, it just required to much juice to get up to temperature! Being one that likes to conserve battery power I decided to pull the build and replace it with this one:
6 wraps each coil of 28AWG NIFE flatwire. The dual coil comes in at 0.15 ohms and only needs 40J to get up to temperature.
For those that are faint at heart, flatwire is not for you. It is very flimsy and easy to deform the coils.
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6 wraps each coil of 28AWG NIFE flatwire. The dual coil comes in at 0.15 ohms and only needs 40J to get up to temperature.
For those that are faint at heart, flatwire is not for you. It is very flimsy and easy to deform the coils.
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The AF Toolbox also has a manual flash function where you might be able to point it at the og firmware and get it to flash back. Maybe. Might have to rename the file. Also maybe. I've never tried it and am just thinking out loud.
Ive really struggled to get temperature control working for SS flat wire, maybe its the brand I have, do you have any luck?While the 24AWG dual coil build above was fine, it just required to much juice to get up to temperature! Being one that likes to conserve battery power I decided to pull the build and replace it with this one:
6 wraps each coil of 28AWG NIFE flatwire. The dual coil comes in at 0.15 ohms and only needs 40J to get up to temperature.
For those that are faint at heart, flatwire is not for you. It is very flimsy and easy to deform the coils.
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Also it looks like your wraps are touching the posts there, doesnt that mess with the resistance read?
That is one of the reasons I've never bought any SS. Mods that have a SS setting don't mention which formulation of SS the setting is for and seemingly each spool has its own TCR value. I'm not sure how people could possibly use TFR tables in the TC mods with SS because of this.
The coils is pretty close but not actually touching. (camera phone angle) As expected 0.3 ohms a coil, 0.15 ohms in parallel. It vapes good on the SL. Actually, really TO GOOD as this is the highest output RTA I own and I'm really not used to it (vaping 7mg salts and getting a buzz).
(I should take a picture of the Ni coils I pulled before putting the new ones on)
(care to count the windings on these?
I still have mods in service that only do NI or TI and have no TCR setting, these are Ni coils)I like using the NiFE flat wire because of the surface area (coil/wick) and low mass. I have it in both 28AWG and 30AWG but find the 28AWG is easier to work with. Its very easy to wind coils and work with with single coil builds but back to back coils like I pictured is a real PITA to get both coils on without smashing the other coil in the process.
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According to my testing so far, the differences in SS316L wire composition doesnt make a material difference despite the rumours, and accurate and finely controlled temperature control on SS316L is very achievable on a range of modern mods, even a pico with Arctic fox. Ive only had issues with ribbon SS. It will be interesting to compare the smoothness of SS316L across a range of wires vs Resistherm. I posit that there will not be a material difference.That is one of the reasons I've never bought any SS. Mods that have a SS setting don't mention which formulation of SS the setting is for and seemingly each spool has its own TCR value. I'm not sure how people could possibly use TFR tables in the TC mods with SS because of this.
The coils is pretty close but not actually touching. (camera phone angle) As expected 0.3 ohms a coil, 0.15 ohms in parallel. It vapes good on the SL. Actually, really TO GOOD as this is the highest output RTA I own and I'm really not used to it (vaping 7mg salts and getting a buzz).
(I should take a picture of the Ni coils I pulled before putting the new ones on)
(care to count the windings on these?
I like using the NiFE flat wire because of the surface area (coil/wick) and low mass. I have it in both 28AWG and 30AWG but find the 28AWG is easier to work with. Its very easy to wind coils and work with with single coil builds but back to back coils like I pictured is a real PITA to get both coils on without smashing the other coil in the process.
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Would be interesting if you could get your hands on a Cold Steel 100. Just curious because so many people say it's TC sucks. Those with the complaints are always the loudest, of course. Would be interesting to see what your data shows in comparison to other mods you've analyzed.
That one has been requested by a few, is it popular? People always said Pico TC sucks even with arctic fox because of cheap components and we just proved that wrong. Most mods ship with the incorrect TCR value set, so maybe the cold steel will be another one of those? Without a propper testing rig its almost impossible to know if you can fix it with an easy TCR tweak or not unless you have a lot of time to spend with a thermocouple.
It's not wildly popular like a Pico 75W and I suspect that's because it's made by EHPro and because of it's shape. But it's popular enough
1) to still be on the market over 1 year after it's introduction and
2) for another company to have recently bought the rights to it (Artery) and recently made a pod device modeled after it called the Cold Steel AK47.
I guess maybe you could say the Cold Steel 100 has a cult following.
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While a blast from ECF's past for sure but you might find it a interesting read:
The Ultimate TCR List
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Update: So it seem I won't be updating the SX-Mini SL's firmware anytime soon - I tried two different WIN10 boxes and the USB driver refused to install on ether of them.
Given that the SL functions just great just the way it is, its no great loss.
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Given that the SL functions just great just the way it is, its no great loss.
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Make sure you have the battery out and the atomizer off at first.Update: So it seem I won't be updating the SX-Mini SL's firmware anytime soon - I tried two different WIN10 boxes and the USB driver refused to install on ether of them.
Given that the SL functions just great just the way it is, its no great loss.
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With my Eleaf mods and Arctic Fox, I had to use a windows 7 machine. For whatever reason my Win 10 box will not see those mods. However, I know other guys who have not had that problem at all. Go figure.
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Unlike most things that are plugged into Windows, the SL triggers no response. Then the software does this:
Oh well, thanks for trying.
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You got the latest package from this year from YIHI's site?Unlike most things that are plugged into Windows, the SL triggers no response. Then the software does this:
Oh well, thanks for trying.
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Maybe it's not Win10, per se. Maybe it's something on your system (like a setting) that you need to disable or even enable for that matter.
Based on now extensive testing I can confirm steam engine's SS316L curve is the most accurate available for DNAs (verified by both the rig and extensive thermocouple verification).
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