Any New Vapers try the Innokin MVP 2.0? This has been hard to sort out the ohms, watts and volts

[Agnes Black]

Hello to all! I'm new here and have a 1100mah pass through I purchased about two weeks ago, which didn't really fit my needs. Purchased an innokin MVP 2.0 and have been trying to figure out what the ohms, variable wattage, and variable voltage -- how it effects the vapor and making sure I'm not frying my unit. It came with an iClear 30, but I usually use Kanger Pro 2 Mini tanks, the ohm meter reads 2.4, so according to the Kanger insert I should be running it at about 4 volts. What does the wattage change do?

 

[CreepyLady]

Hi and Welcome to ECF

Just use watts or volts (you cant use both - you are in whichever mode you push the button for last) start all the way low and go up one notch at a time. If it starts to taste burnt go back down a few notches. Just pick the spot you like best. For me, I use watts and I am usually between 6.5-7.5. You wont fry your battery, the worst thing you will do this way is get a slightly burned hit if you go up to high with no permanent damage.

The MVP has safety measures to protect itself, so unless you get crazy - you should be ok.

 

[ddem5494]

It is just what you prefer to use watts or volts you should run it at 4v or 6.5 watts (watts is w=v^2/r)


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[Mikie]

I start out low on my volts and only go up when I need too. At 2.4 ohms I would be around 3.9-4.1 volts, depending on how the juice reacts to it. I have a couple of juices I won't go anywhere near 4 volts because it gets a burnt taste to quick. I lose some vapor production but the flavor stays good at lower volts with these flavors.

I haven't played with vw yet, probably need to but I have experience with volts, but watts mean nothing to me lol.

 

[1wildman]

Depending on juice I typically run around 8watts on Ickear and Kangers. RDAs I typically crankup to 10 wats.


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[aggro]

With voltage you have to use online charts to figure out what is safe.


But If you just stick with wats all the calculations are done, and you won't hurt yourself, or your mvp

 

[Ulap]

For the MVP series you can either choose to adjust the wattage or the voltage. The last number that you edit will be what the device will go by, until you edit it again. So if the last thing that you edit is "P" (or Wattage) it will automatically set the Voltage to the appropriate level to meet the Wattage. If the last thing that you edit is "U" (or Voltage), the device will automatically ignore the wattage that you want and just go with the voltage. Ohms is only a factor in the mathematical equation (Ohms Law) to get to the Output. By pressing and holding both adjustment buttons you will get this the Ohms first, followed by the amount of charge left on the batter. When the second number that appears reaches about 3.6 ish V then you should prolly hook it up to a charger.

Ok, that was just some intro stuff. Now which of these number really matter or what is the end product of this "Ohms Law"? That would be wattage. The wattage is what will dictate what the vapor will end up as, while the other factors are what will create the wattage. Depending on what wattage your atomizer is getting, it may make the juice flavor standout our mute it. The constant things that I have noticed is:

@ Higher Wattage - you will get more throat hit; you will produce more vapor; you will experience a warmer vapor.

@ Lower Wattage - you will get less throat hit; you will produce less vapor; you will experience a cooler vapor.

Best tip I can give without getting all scientific about it is if the resistance on your coil is anything above 1.5 Ohms then stick to Variable Wattage. If it is below 1.5 Ohms then start delving into Variable Voltage, but read up on the Ohms Law before playing around. In the end, the Variable stuff is meant to cater the Vapor to your liking. It will take some trial and error until you find the wattage that you want.

Also IF you choose to still go with the Volts setting, a good rule of thumb is to take the resistance on your coil and add 2 to it. Set your Voltage to that, and adjust up until you reach the desired vapor. I hope this helps

 

[Agnes Black]

The iClear I have is 2.1 Ohms and the kanger is 2.4, so I've been sticking to 4v and using about 8w. If I use 11w on the iClear, I cough myself from the massive amount of vapor it produces. LOL I'm a gearhead, so I like to delve into the technical side of things. That's why a coworker said the MVP would be a good choice.

 

[Agnes Black]

On the positive side, I have had the same pack of smokes for over 2 weeks and rarely feel the need to light up. TBH tobacco tastes gross nowadays

 

[Mikie]

Also IF you choose to still go with the Volts setting, a good rule of thumb is to take the resistance on your coil and add 2 to it. Set your Voltage to that, and adjust up until you reach the desired vapor. I hope this helps

So the 2.2 ohm coil I am using now I should start at 4.2 and go up from there? Maybe it is the juice I am using, but I am vaping it happily at 3.7 volts. At 4.2 volts it would taste bad to me. Different strokes for different folks

 

[catalinaflyer]

So the 2.2 ohm coil I am using now I should start at 4.2 and go up from there? Maybe it is the juice I am using, but I am vaping it happily at 3.7 volts. At 4.2 volts it would taste bad to me. Different strokes for different folks

Ohms + 2 is just a starting point not a rule. I prefer a little warmer vape so I generally run 8.5 watts at the low end. By telling people to start off on VV at ohms + 2 there's little if any chance of burning the coil/wick and one can then adjust up or down depending on the juice, atomizer, personal preference etc.

 

[TheReign]

I've found wattage to be the best setting for me. It does Calcs for you so you just set an vape away!

 

[Ulap]

Agnes Black

On the positive side, I have had the same pack of smokes for over 2 weeks and rarely feel the need to light up. TBH tobacco tastes gross nowadays

To not feel the need to touch your analogs is an achievement on its own. Since you love the technical side of things, then I would definitely suggest to research Ohms Law.

Agnes Black

The iClear I have is 2.1 Ohms and the kanger is 2.4, so I've been sticking to 4v and using about 8w. If I use 11w on the iClear, I cough myself from the massive amount of vapor it produces. LOL I'm a gearhead, so I like to delve into the technical side of things. That's why a coworker said the MVP would be a good choice.

In your case, if the last number that you edit was Volts (U) and you set it to 4 volts that means for your iClear (@ 2.1 Ohms) you are pushing 7.6 Watts; for your Kanger (@ 2.4 Ohms) you are pushing out 6.6 Watts. The lower the resistance, given that the volts remain the same, the Higher the Wattage you are pushing. The safety aspect of it all lies in the Amperage you are pushing which maybe another factor to use to determine the end Wattage. For as long you do not exceed the Amp rating of the battery, then you should be generally safer.

BUT if the last number you edit is Watts (P) both your Kanger and iClear is doing 8 Watts, or whatever you set it to. There is no math involved on your part, and the device will remain in safe parameters for the most part.

So now you know 11 Watts is not for you, so try 10.5 Watts, and keep of tapering it down until you find YOUR sweet spot . As you get deeper into vaping you will find out that Ohm's Law will play a HUGE part of it especially in safety.

At the entry level of p laying around with the Voltage setting you really need to pay attention to one thing. That is your batteries limits, specifically the Amps the the battery is rated to handle. For the MVP 2.0 that is 3 Amps. So if you go with the Voltage setting you can do whatever Volts and Ohms combination that you like, which will have its different Wattage results, just don't go above the Amps.

If my math is correct the highest Wattage that you can achieve while still within the limits of the MVP 2.0 is 15 Watts @ 3 Amps (5 Volts with a 1.66 Ohm coil). The MVP 2 will not allow you to go past 11 Watts, which is why if you use the wattage setting you will unlikely go beyond the amperage limit of the battery.

BUT if you use the voltage setting and you build a 1 Ohm coil in your Protank and Fire it at 5 Volts that would end up 25 Watts @ 5 Amps and hopefully not a trip to the ER

Sorry for rambling on but yeah I highly recommend sticking to Wattage setting (for now), and go with what I said in my 4th paragraph.

 

[Mikie]

I started out on volts, so using watts makes me do calculations lol. That may or may not be accurate, but I know what 3.5 volts feels like, I know what 3.9 bolts feels like.

It's like going from inches to cm.... meaning I have a feel for what 12 inches is, but not what 30.5cm is. To each there own because it means the same

 

[Ulap]

Mikie: but I know what 3.5 volts feels like, I know what 3.9 bolts feels like.

That is exactly what the VV/VW stuff is for. It is catering it to what the user likes . Which is easier then having to rebuild a coil until you find the vapor that you like (mech mods).

Mikie: I started out on volts, so using watts makes me do calculations lol

You don't NEED to do calculations, just know the limits and make sure that you don't surpass the limits. Usually just by the sense of taste and smell (depending on the person) the limits are not reached. Plus I never said that you do calculations when using the variable wattage function of the device. I actually said:

BUT if the last number you edit is Watts (P) both your Kanger and iClear is doing 8 Watts, or whatever you set it to. There is no math involved on your part, and the device will remain in safe parameters for the most part.

It is when you start using the Volts setting and Coils at or below 1.5 (shoot prolly even 1.6) that I would highly recommend doing some math, using some charts, use something or using anything so you know you are not surpassing the limits. In which case a rebuilt 1 Ohm coil in a Protank, which the MVP 2.0 WILL fire, is well beyond its limits if fired at 5 volts. BUT if you take the same coil and fire it at 3 volts you still within the battery's limit (barely but there).

 

[neutrontech]

I like my mvp2. I pretty much set wattage and forget. I like that I can drop any coil in and not be forced to figure out the resistance and figure out the proper voltage. I know my kangers get burnt after about 7.5 watts and my aspires are great around 9 watts. When I change coils it doesn't matter if its 1.8, 2.2, or even 3.0. 7.5 watts is 7.5 watts. In theory anyways. Seems to work well for me using this method. Some juices require different settings but the result is the same. I only have to remember what wattage I like for each juice. Doesn't matter what the coil resistance is. Another bonus is that I can buy what's available. If 1.8 is sold out, I buy 2.2 or something. I'm not stuck buying a single type. I get the wattage I want regardless.

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[Joka]

I've been smoking on 3.7 volts on mine, but all I use are drippers with it. I still get good cloud production and flavor

 

[1wildman]

resistance is only one part of the equation... The MVP will read NON if your atty has too low resistance.

The maximum output is around 11 watts even if you are setting the voltage. Just easier to set the wattage and let it do the work for you. I get the best taste in 7.5-8.5 watt range and more smoke at 10watts.

 

[Ulap]

1wildman: 11 watts even if you are setting the voltage

I am not too sure about this.. My device only reads "NON" if i have coil that is anything less than 1 Ohm (tried with a .9). I have fired a 1 Ohm in a Protank II on the MVP II. I started at 3 Volts and went all the way up to 3.5 volts until I stopped pushing it further. @ 3.5 Volts that is already pushing 12.25 Watts @ 3.5 Amps. The device is "suppose" have a 3 Amp limit in which case it didn't kick-in. Might have just been that one MVP 2.0. I didn't bother to try the experiment on my other MVP 2.0. Point I am getting at is that these are electronics, so the possibility of one of these safety features not kicking in will always be there.


*Disclaimer: Although I am not a trained professional, I do acknowledge the fact that I took a very big risk by pushing the device past the manufacturers limits. Knowing this, i tried to mitigate the risk as much as possible. I did it in one of my basement rooms where the walls where all concrete, and there was no carpet on the floor. My wife was in the other room with a fire extinguisher and was ready to call the on-base medical facility. I was wearing protective eye wear, thick leather work gloves, leather boots, and a fire resistant suit (Nomex). I am by no means recommending for people to do this experiment, or even surpass what I have done. BUT, if you do I assume no responsibility for you actions.*

1wildman: Just easier to set the wattage and let it do the work for you.

Definitely agree. I keep mine at 10 Watts it seems to work well for either My Protank and my RDA. I do 100% VG though ^^;

 

[1wildman]

I am a firearms instructor and we teach people to NEVER trust the safety. Safeties are mechanical devices that can fail. The best safety is the one between your ears. Same holds true for electrical devices.

I saw a guy running a 0.8ohm dual coil on his MVP2 and it fired. I wouldnt trust the device to be super accurate and i would always factor in some room for safety.