Anybody give up on Kayfun style RBA's

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jamesfarrell

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Talking about the piece on the far left, correct?

Kayfun_lite_page_title.jpg
 

YuckMan

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I like to be able to see my liquid channels after I screw on the bottom chimney, then I know they're not blocked. It's hard to get a picture of, but I did the best I could. The wicks go all the way to the bottom by the liquid channels, but not in them. Just be careful that they don't touch too much of the top by the coil, or you'll get flooding.


No_block.jpg
 

yotogi

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+1 on the too much cotton based on your pictures and my own experience.

I had a bunch of problems when I first started using my KFL (clone). With a microcoil/cotton build you end up using so little cotton that you are tempted to think that there is no way that you have enough there. The missing o-ring might also be in play. I am missing mine too might explain why I start to get flooding once my tank level is below where the chimney joins up in the tank even. I never have dry hit issues (10-15W chain vaping) now that I have sorted out by build. I just noticed that my "parts bag" has 2 different size rings! Good thing I was going to clean and rewick tonight anyway, so I will give that a try.

Keep at it and check this VERY LONG KFL thread (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/436118-kayfun-lite.html). It took me a week or more to get through it, but it is an amazing collection of learned wisdom about this amazing atomizer.
 
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vapdivrr

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im pretty sure there is an oring in his device, if not it would really leak out of the drip tip. there is another possibility that does have to do with this 4-c oring. the chimney top needs to be sealed into this oring, if not the device wont work properly. I remember once I had dropped my k-lite and soon after I had dry hit issues, I never attributed it to the drop and after a few days I had noticed the threads of the plastic tank had separated, this separation had affected the oring seal. after I unscrewed and re threaded the tank section it was fine. lets just say the plastic tank section wasn't tightened all the way onto the adjoining sections, this could affect the seal on this oring. just to eliminate this possibility unscrew the plastic tank completely and re thread, also remove the 4-c oring and check for damage then replace. if this doesn't fix issue most likely its a build issue with the coil and wick. another thing to check is the position of the positive block, just make sure its not touching the neg side. both these issues most likely aren't whats happening but sometimes process of elimination helps. my money is on the amount of wicking material
 

steel bender

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From the photos above, that chimney is packed! Have you tried silica wick? (or way less cotton)

lol, you should see how packed my chimney is, probably twice that and it's wicking better than ever.

The only real important thing is not having too much cotton inside the coil itself. As for the rest, it depends on your build.
 

jamesfarrell

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I've had multiple wicks in this thing. As mentioned. When I put my finger over the hole and do a dry pull without pressing the button, then I can take a few hits. I've adjusted the wick (2mm silica wool now) as described. Just a little bit of wick over the top of the chimney, cut, tuck to the sides of the well or whatever. not so far down to block the channels. If it was a coil issue, I'd be getting burned hits all the time I would think. I'm just not getting juice, except when I pull it in manually. There is a clear o-ring (you can hardly see in the pic I posted) for the top hat or whatever it's called. The thing is sealed. What is the possibility it's just a flawed device?
 

ancientgeek

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As I assembled my collection of Kayfun style devices (2 Russian 91%, i KFL+, 2 Tobeco KFL+ clones) I noticed that only the Orig. KFL+ has a slight bevel on the chimney top where it engages the top cap o-ring. I put the same slight bevel on all the others and have never had a flooding/leaking episode with any of them. It does seem to facilitate the chimney top properly seating in that o-ring.
 

steel bender

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Try using a thinner, longer wick. All this talk about not blocking the channels, isn't exactly right. You want the wick covering the channels inside the chimney, but not pushed inside or packed down, because that would "block" them. I fill both sides with as much cotton as I can get in there, then fold the end back up to the coil. It's been wicking amazing. The too much cotton thing really only refers to inside the coil, where too much will choke off the flow and give you some dry hits.

Overfilling is also a problem, lately I've just said screw it and only fill it about half full.
 

garpt01

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Well I personally do love my Kayfuns, but I will tell you that I just got a Taifun, and I am absolutely in love with it! Super easy to build on, and the flavor is unbelievable....I bought an authentic Taifun GT (not cheap), but there are decent clones out there (check Ebay)....just make sure you get one with an SS deck...some of the cheapo clones had chrome-plated brass decks but I think those have all been phased out....

Taifun GT (or a clone) is my vote....

EDIT: I agree with the guys below....you should give your Kayfun clone another chance before switching it up....I am sure you'll get it sorted out!! :)

++1 for the Taifun!!
 

jamesfarrell

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My air hole, as I said was stripped from the get go. I have the allen screw still in there. Managed to get it to a place where it's hitting good when there is fluid in the chamber. This is a clone and being that it's a vacuum type system, chances are some of the tolerances are off and the vacuum is not working right.
 
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