Anybody Using A Kabuki?
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At first I was notified by email that the 1 ohm units were back in stock.
So I immediately ordered 3. I have received those today, and am sportin one in my P3 Nautilus tank.
I then saw a post by Zen mentioning the possible resistance issues with the Kabuki Tank, and ordered a 1.5 and a 2 ohm coil.
I'll have those on Monday?
My Opinion... It is much better in my P3 Tank than the New Style Naughty Coils. (Further testing underway)
Jim
The kabuki was designed around the BVC coils not the BDC, correct? The page below shows a comparison of the two, the bottom pin appears longer on the BDC.
Your One Stop Vapor Shop for E-Cigarettes and DIY Accessories.
All pix posted by me today are of bvc, except the Avid which uses a Bottom Single Horizontal Coil.
Zen, I received my re-machined base today, having shipped mine to you on Monday. Thank you very much for the service, and the rapid turnaround! I popped an old style coil in and primed it. I could feel the base of the coil engage the P3 connection about 1/5 turn before it snugged. I am quite pleased with the work done to accommodate my issues, Thanks again!
Jim, Steve...
Neither of you has mentioned that the original Nautilus base came with a spring loaded contact pin in the base...this was to help pick up the slack (by bridging the gap) for the mass-produced differences in coil/coil pin length/depth.
It may not be that the coils or their pins are physically any longer...it could just be that some pins are pressed into the coils a little deeper, and the cheap insulator material around them is pressed into shape that way, essentially holding them in place. Then, when someone tries to pull the pin down a smidge (technical term), the pin is loose from its insulator...which is why ENAUD reports having to wrap some thread around the pin, to take out the slack/looseness of the insulator once the pin has been pulled down to a satisfactory length.
Now, I only own a P3 Kabuki, so I do not know how the 510 Kabuki makes contact between mod and coil...but all I can say is: I feel defending the cheap and replaceable, mass produced CHINESE coils is a bit of a long shot...especially when two top notch American companies (with solid reputations) are on the table as well...
Provape and HoH haven't gotten their reputations by producing sloppy devices. Do their devices work for or fit everyone's style? No. But do they WORK? Yes.
Now, in this Game of Vaping, which country has the reputation for churning out bazillions (technical number) of cheap, cloned, disposable vape products? I'd say between the three, Aspire fits that bill.
And here's another -OPINION- of mine: Aspire sits on the same playing field as Kanger...which isn't saying much. Just because Aspire is the shiniest of the two turds, doesn't mean they're infallible, or creating quality products like our boys in Washington State or New York...
Have Provape and HoH made tolerance mistakes before? You bet your sweet rear ends they have...but were these tolerance mistakes created in hundreds of thousands (maybe even closer to millions) of units? Nope!
Just some food for thought.
Zen has been more than generous enough to offer compensation for those experiencing a problem, and you better believe Provape isn't just sitting around blinking at this issue. They've remained quiet about it, but that's their way. They go into stealth mode when they have their noses to the grindstone.
In the end, I've finally experienced this no-contact issue myself. One of my two Betas won't fire on a new coil, even though they both fired the coil that came with my P3 Kabuki. I'm not even gonna bother sending the base to Zen...if it fires on one, it fires enough for me.
P.S. I wasn't intending to dismiss either of you, or your opinions...I just thought I'd lay the other hand on the table and play Devil's advocate in a way.
Neither of you has mentioned that the original Nautilus base came with a spring loaded contact pin in the base...this was to help pick up the slack (by bridging the gap) for the mass-produced differences in coil/coil pin length/depth.
It may not be that the coils or their pins are physically any longer...it could just be that some pins are pressed into the coils a little deeper, and the cheap insulator material around them is pressed into shape that way, essentially holding them in place. Then, when someone tries to pull the pin down a smidge (technical term), the pin is loose from its insulator...which is why ENAUD reports having to wrap some thread around the pin, to take out the slack/looseness of the insulator once the pin has been pulled down to a satisfactory length.
Now, I only own a P3 Kabuki, so I do not know how the 510 Kabuki makes contact between mod and coil...but all I can say is: I feel defending the cheap and replaceable, mass produced CHINESE coils is a bit of a long shot...especially when two top notch American companies (with solid reputations) are on the table as well...
Provape and HoH haven't gotten their reputations by producing sloppy devices. Do their devices work for or fit everyone's style? No. But do they WORK? Yes.
Now, in this Game of Vaping, which country has the reputation for churning out bazillions (technical number) of cheap, cloned, disposable vape products? I'd say between the three, Aspire fits that bill.
And here's another -OPINION- of mine: Aspire sits on the same playing field as Kanger...which isn't saying much. Just because Aspire is the shiniest of the two turds, doesn't mean they're infallible, or creating quality products like our boys in Washington State or New York...
Have Provape and HoH made tolerance mistakes before? You bet your sweet rear ends they have...but were these tolerance mistakes created in hundreds of thousands (maybe even closer to millions) of units? Nope!
Just some food for thought.
Zen has been more than generous enough to offer compensation for those experiencing a problem, and you better believe Provape isn't just sitting around blinking at this issue. They've remained quiet about it, but that's their way. They go into stealth mode when they have their noses to the grindstone.
In the end, I've finally experienced this no-contact issue myself. One of my two Betas won't fire on a new coil, even though they both fired the coil that came with my P3 Kabuki. I'm not even gonna bother sending the base to Zen...if it fires on one, it fires enough for me.
P.S. I wasn't intending to dismiss either of you, or your opinions...I just thought I'd lay the other hand on the table and play Devil's advocate in a way.
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I have been using the oider coils in my 510s no problems.
I will pop one of the Ciscos in a p3 Kabuki when I get home tonight and see what's what.
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I am sure you guys are tired of hearing about the flooding. But I love the Kabuki and want to find a solution. I tried all the suggestions nothing worked. I just changed the coil today in the P3 Kabuki filled 2 times so far no flooding. I am guessing its either a bad batch of coils i got. What makes me a little upset is the coil wasn't ready to be changed it didn't taste bad. I ordered a couple of 1.5 ohm coils from Cisco to try. I don't get how there not disposable. Coils eventually wear out. I have tried rebuilding the nautlius bvc coils but it didn't work. I am worried when they stop making them so I'd like to learn.
Cisco coils last a long time, if you follow the instructions. I have a couple .HH357s which still work fine after about a year and a half and 100's of ml of e-liquid run through them...
Home again home again jiggity jig...
Loaded up a Cisco HH 1.5ohm coil in a daily driver P3 Kabuki just now
and...
wait for it....
It fired right up so.. YMMV.
No problems with this particular coil though.
Loaded up a Cisco HH 1.5ohm coil in a daily driver P3 Kabuki just now
and...
wait for it....
It fired right up so.. YMMV.
No problems with this particular coil though.
..... And then... I popped the Cisco HH 1.5ohm coil out of the daily driver P3 Kabuki tank, gave it a rinse and a blow out, set it aside to dry, and popped the Aspire new style 1.8ohm coil back into the daily driver P3 Kabuki tank,
and...
It did not fire.
So.
I popped the daily driver P3 Kabuki tank open, grabbed a paper towel (are we supposed to call paper towel vape towel when we use it for vaping-type stuff?), and proceeded to screw the coil down just a tad more and, lo and behold...
It fired right up.
This has been my experience with non-firing coils 100% of the time.
The problem has invariably been that I have not quite screwed the coil all the way down, even though it feels as if I have initially.
HTH
and...
It did not fire.
So.
I popped the daily driver P3 Kabuki tank open, grabbed a paper towel (are we supposed to call paper towel vape towel when we use it for vaping-type stuff?), and proceeded to screw the coil down just a tad more and, lo and behold...
It fired right up.
This has been my experience with non-firing coils 100% of the time.
The problem has invariably been that I have not quite screwed the coil all the way down, even though it feels as if I have initially.
HTH
Googled vape towel.
People have special towels for vaping.
Who knew?
I don't no stinkin' vape towel, no I don't!
People have special towels for vaping.
Who knew?
I don't no stinkin' vape towel, no I don't!
Yes.
But take it easy with the dry burn.
I also find them to work better with a tight draw and at low power. They will dry hit pretty easily if you bump them up too high, or open the air up too much.
These are bril, but function best with an old school vape imo.
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