@Arnold Ziffle , after a quick look at the googles, my memory was off, that change in elevation is equivalent to a ride to full altitude in a pressurized commercial cabin.
Anybody Using A Kabuki?
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it's not bad going up but going down seems to be worse. at least as I remember. I'm retiring soon so will make a lot of trips to the desert. I'll take notes.
The GMZ Provari's are fully mirror polished before the treatment. The GMZ is what is called in the metal finishing business, Fully Brushed in finish.
The Stealth is an entirely different animal all together. Where the GMZ is a Metal treatment, that permanently changes the surface of the metal, the Stealth is a baked on finish. The GMZ if vastly superior in both abrasion resistance and hardness.
For the most part, to damage the finish on a GMZ. You just about have to damage the metal matrix beneath the surface, whereas the Stealth, can actually chip, since it is a coating adhering to the surface. The GMZ treatment actually changes the surface fo the metal. Very Good Stuff!
In Gunsmithing, and Knife Making, we usually bead blast the surface before applying the finishes in the Stealth type coatings. This gives it a stronger bond when baking. We also use the Ceramic coatings on engine headers in drag racing applications. It's a wonderful at keeping the heat high in the tubes where it belongs.
Knife
The Stealth is an entirely different animal all together. Where the GMZ is a Metal treatment, that permanently changes the surface of the metal, the Stealth is a baked on finish. The GMZ if vastly superior in both abrasion resistance and hardness.
For the most part, to damage the finish on a GMZ. You just about have to damage the metal matrix beneath the surface, whereas the Stealth, can actually chip, since it is a coating adhering to the surface. The GMZ treatment actually changes the surface fo the metal. Very Good Stuff!
In Gunsmithing, and Knife Making, we usually bead blast the surface before applying the finishes in the Stealth type coatings. This gives it a stronger bond when baking. We also use the Ceramic coatings on engine headers in drag racing applications. It's a wonderful at keeping the heat high in the tubes where it belongs.
Knife
Hey Knife, I already knew all this, but I think it's cool you came in here and took the time to pass along info such as this to those who might not have.
Perhaps I have the info wrong. Is the ceramic ccoil for the Triton or mini triton. Can we use it in the kabuki? Would love to get longer life from a coil!
Knife
Knife
Speaking of coils, has anybody tried the Beyond Vape 1.8 coils in a Kabuki? I know they are made to go in the Silo tank but figured if the Silo can take an Aspire Nautilus BVC coil it stands to reason the Kabuki should be able to accept the Beyond Vape coil.
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My understanding is there is a difference between the Aspire BVC coil and the Aspire Nautilus coil and the Kabuki does not work with the Aspire BVC coil.
I'm using Nautilus BVC coils in both my Kabukis on my Radii - working perfectly so far - 9 watts x 1.6 Ohms ...
The Aspire BVC coils are different from the Aspire Nautilus BVC coils - I believe that is what @YoursTruli was referring.
Hmm --- It seems to me that the Beyond Vape BVC's should easily work on the Kabuki. "The Silo BVC Coil is equivalent to the Aspire Nautilus BVC Coil."
It's the Silo Lite that uses the ones that are the same size as the Aspire BVC, and not Kabuki compatible. "The Silo Lite BVC Coil is equivalent to the Aspire BVC Coil."
It's the Silo Lite that uses the ones that are the same size as the Aspire BVC, and not Kabuki compatible. "The Silo Lite BVC Coil is equivalent to the Aspire BVC Coil."
Vaporesso Coils cCELL Ceramic Authentic 5Pack Target Tank Aspire Atlantis Triton
I'm guessing you mean the Vaporesso the ones quoted above? Atlantis and Triton coil case is much larger than the Nautilus and would not fit in anything that uses Nauti coils that I am aware. The Triton and Triton mini are quite different in size of their coils.
I'm guessing you mean the Vaporesso the ones quoted above? Atlantis and Triton coil case is much larger than the Nautilus and would not fit in anything that uses Nauti coils that I am aware. The Triton and Triton mini are quite different in size of their coils.
I received the blue MBV 510 Kabuki today. Undortunately, when screwed together, the wicking holes are mostly covered unlike on my P3 kabukis. I've tried screwing the atomizer in tighter, loosening the hex screw on the 510 connection, and tried alternate nautilus BVC coils to no avail. I emailed MBV earlier today after no luck getting through on the phone. I'll see what they suggest.
Is there something else I might try or something I missed while searching this thread?
Is there something else I might try or something I missed while searching this thread?
its just the difference in bases. with the nautilus coil screwed onto the 510 base the wick holes sit a bit higher. with the P3 base the coils sit deeper in the base. i noticed the difference also, but havent seen it affect the vape quality.
edit: if it helps, i vape 50/50 mr eliquids and a much thicker suicide bunny
edit: if it helps, i vape 50/50 mr eliquids and a much thicker suicide bunny
Well if that's true, I think they should have shortened the top chimney by design to compensate or made them sit deeper by design. Are there alternate coils that don't do this? My holes are nearly 90% covered but if that's normal for this version of the tank I can see how it goes.
are you noticing a difference in vape quality between the P3 and 510 version...i originally purchased the 510 kabuki and shortly after the P3 to be able to use the triton mini clapton and ni200 coils...the 510 version with 1.6 ohm nautilus coils has been a very nice experience so far, i just got tired of the 510 pin backing out every time i removed the tank from the battery device and the coilhead getting wedged in the chimney...the P3 version has been absolutely a flawless experience.
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