Anybody Using A Kabuki?

[stevegmu]

But there's a problem. I'm getting an OP error message. I changed the coil. I've tried it on my other P3s with the same error on each and I put the regular Kabukis on the P3 Stealth and they all work. How do I fix this???

I had this 'problem' after changing a head. I tightened it down super tight, and it has worked ever since...

 

[k2zs]

Looks delish, JUMA. Congrats!



Welp, I don't have a P3 Kabuki, but I've had a similar prob with one of my 510s. In fact, just now the problem repeated itself. After much futzing the first time around, I believe the only fix was to super tighten down the coil. I have it working now, but lost a tankful in the futzing process.

Hey Kat!...

I've found that the "best practice" with the 510 Kabuki when changing coils is to first loosen the center pin (with the provided allen wrench), install your new coil as tight as possible, then snug the center pin back up. The coils that they make are so sloppy and inconsistent that you have to do it this way. I found this out when I had one coil that was just leaking liquid into the air chamber like crazy. I loosened the center pin and got almost another full turn out of the coil and it stopped leaking....

On another note, I've not had any issues at all with my Z2 Kabuki's

 

[jwbnyc]

Looks delish, JUMA. Congrats!



Welp, I don't have a P3 Kabuki, but I've had a similar prob with one of my 510s. In fact, just now the problem repeated itself. After much futzing the first time around, I believe the only fix was to super tighten down the coil. I have it working now, but lost a tankful in the futzing process.

The 510 Kabuki has an adjustable 510 screw. That's what the little hex key is for.

 

[AstroTurf]

C'mon, Turf. How's about you and me, we'll go halfsies and try to reverse-engineer some 510's. With my technical prowess, I'd bet they'll be awesome.

I'm now sure how we'll work the CeraKote process, but I'm sure we can figure something out.

View attachment 488721

DP, That kit has a gun...

Of course I'll help!

 

[DPLongo22]

DP, That kit has a gun...

Of course I'll help!

I knew I liked you for a good reason, Jim.

 

[Katdarling]

Hey Kat!...

I've found that the "best practice" with the 510 Kabuki when changing coils is to first loosen the center pin (with the provided allen wrench), install your new coil as tight as possible, then snug the center pin back up. The coils that they make are so sloppy and inconsistent that you have to do it this way. I found this out when I had one coil that was just leaking liquid into the air chamber like crazy. I loosened the center pin and got almost another full turn out of the coil and it stopped leaking....

On another note, I've not had any issues at all with my Z2 Kabuki's

BRILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLiant, k2! Thank you. In all my "try this try that try this again", I never thought to try THAT.

May I bombard you with other Kabuki issues in the future?


jwb, I'm very well aware of the hex key and pin. One of the issues I faced with the Kabuki was to loosen the pin so as to make it protrude a bit more (to get it to fire). What I discovered tho, dismayed me. When I loosened it (extended it), and then screwed it onto a mod or an ohm reader, it immediate retreated like a super frightened turtle. I'm at a loss on that.

 

[JUMA55]

Thanks for the suggestions from all. Here's the deal: Five P3's--two "normal" black ones, two Ti's and one Stealth (non Ti); two "normal" stainless Kabukis, two Atlantis tanks with P3 treading and one Kabuki Stealth. The Atlantis tanks work fine on all five devices. All of the Kabukis will work on the Ti P3's but not on the P3 Stealth nor the "normal" black P3's. The coil factor is irrelevant. I've mixed the coils between the various tanks to the point where I'm not sure where I started. And I opened a fresh pack of coils that bought directly from Aspire too.

The problem is the top ring on the Stealth P3 and the normal ones--the part with the treads that's left behind when the 510 parts are removed--is very slightly thicker than the same ring on on the Ti's. Or the bottom part of the Kabukis--the screw part--is too deep. The Kabukis fit flush on the Ti's, but there's a slight gap when I put the Kabukis on the P3 Stealth and the normal black P3's. In other words, the screw part of the Kabukis bottoms out in the well of the P3 before the coil can make contact with the P3.

The suggestion of pulling the pin slightly on the coil might work, but it still leaves the gap, which very noticeable on the Stealth P3 and and Stealth Kabuki.

I'm pretty bummed out by the whole thing. At this price point and the overall quality of the P3's and the Kabukis, all of these items should work together without any issues.

Everything was bought from ProVape, but I guess I'll start on Monday by calling Zen's company, unless he sees this first and responds. I would guess Zen's idea is to make his design work with ProVari's product rather than ProVari making its units work with his.

All thoughts, comments or suggestions welcome!

 

[AstroTurf]

Thanks for the suggestions from all. Here's the deal: Five P3's--two "normal" black ones, two Ti's and one Stealth (non Ti); two "normal" stainless Kabukis, two Atlantis tanks with P3 treading and one Kabuki Stealth. The Atlantis tanks work fine on all five devices. All of the Kabukis will work on the Ti P3's but not on the P3 Stealth nor the "normal" black P3's. The coil factor is irrelevant. I've mixed the coils between the various tanks to the point where I'm not sure where I started. And I opened a fresh pack of coils that bought directly from Aspire too.

The problem is the top ring on the Stealth P3 and the normal ones--the part with the treads that's left behind when the 510 parts are removed--is very slightly thicker than the same ring on on the Ti's. Or the bottom part of the Kabukis--the screw part--is too deep. The Kabukis fit flush on the Ti's, but there's a slight gap when I put the Kabukis on the P3 Stealth and the normal black P3's. In other words, the screw part of the Kabukis bottoms out in the well of the P3 before the coil can make contact with the P3.

The suggestion of pulling the pin slightly on the coil might work, but it still leaves the gap, which very noticeable on the Stealth P3 and and Stealth Kabuki.

I'm pretty bummed out by the whole thing. At this price point and the overall quality of the P3's and the Kabukis, all of these items should work together without any issues.

Everything was bought from ProVape, but I guess I'll start on Monday by calling Zen's company, unless he sees this first and responds. I would guess Zen's idea is to make his design work with ProVari's product rather than ProVari making its units work with his.

All thoughts, comments or suggestions welcome!

Here you go... My findings...

East meets West...

 

[gin828]

Thanks for the suggestions from all. Here's the deal: Five P3's--two "normal" black ones, two Ti's and one Stealth (non Ti); two "normal" stainless Kabukis, two Atlantis tanks with P3 treading and one Kabuki Stealth. The Atlantis tanks work fine on all five devices. All of the Kabukis will work on the Ti P3's but not on the P3 Stealth nor the "normal" black P3's. The coil factor is irrelevant. I've mixed the coils between the various tanks to the point where I'm not sure where I started. And I opened a fresh pack of coils that bought directly from Aspire too.

The problem is the top ring on the Stealth P3 and the normal ones--the part with the treads that's left behind when the 510 parts are removed--is very slightly thicker than the same ring on on the Ti's. Or the bottom part of the Kabukis--the screw part--is too deep. The Kabukis fit flush on the Ti's, but there's a slight gap when I put the Kabukis on the P3 Stealth and the normal black P3's. In other words, the screw part of the Kabukis bottoms out in the well of the P3 before the coil can make contact with the P3.

The suggestion of pulling the pin slightly on the coil might work, but it still leaves the gap, which very noticeable on the Stealth P3 and and Stealth Kabuki.

I'm pretty bummed out by the whole thing. At this price point and the overall quality of the P3's and the Kabukis, all of these items should work together without any issues.

Everything was bought from ProVape, but I guess I'll start on Monday by calling Zen's company, unless he sees this first and responds. I would guess Zen's idea is to make his design work with ProVari's product rather than ProVari making its units work with his.

All thoughts, comments or suggestions welcome!

That sucks....but Zen will make it right

 

[JUMA55]

Here you go... My findings...

East meets West...

So, Astro, how'd you fix the problem? And I guess yours was just with the Nautilus tanks? Damn, I hope I don't have that problem too. I just ran down and ordered two more today.

And here's another issue, although minor in nature. I bought two Zen Althea drip tips for the stainless Kabukis. Work great. Bought two more for the Nautilus tanks. One tips fits snug in the Nautilus, the other falls out if you turn the tank upside down. Won't stay in the Nautilus tank at all. I haven't spent five hours trying to figure that one out like I did on the Kabukis making connection. The stock Nautilus drip tip for the P3 unit isn't bad at all, in fact it's better than 90% of the drip tips that come on most tanks. I just like the Althea better.

(I don't know where Zen got the name. But when I was a kid I got to know Althea Gibson after she'd switched from tennis to golf. She was the first black woman to win a grand slam tennis tournament. I think she won 10 or 11. Fantastic athlete and very nice woman. And very under appreciated. Hell, I would have bought the drip tip for the name alone, forget the fact that it looks neat and I like it.)

 

[AstroTurf]

Is there paint on the bottom of the P3 connection portion of the Stealth Kabuki Tanks?

 

[JUMA55]

That sucks....but Zen will make it right

Gin, I hope so. This vaping deal has been an extremely frustrating experience. While I do enjoy the fiddle factor to a degree, it has involved a lot more work and expense than I ever expected. True, I got off the smokes after one day a vaping and never looked back. But I have difficulty recommending vaping to lots of people, my boss for example, as I know while they could well afford it, they'd never devote the time necessary to be successful at it.

 

[JUMA55]

Is there paint on the bottom of the P3 connection portion of the Stealth Kabuki Tanks?

Here's what mine looks like.

 

[Katdarling]

I'm pretty bummed out by the whole thing. At this price point and the overall quality of the P3's and the Kabukis, all of these items should work together without any issues.

Everything was bought from ProVape, but I guess I'll start on Monday by calling Zen's company, unless he sees this first and responds. I would guess Zen's idea is to make his design work with ProVari's product rather than ProVari making its units work with his.

All thoughts, comments or suggestions welcome!

I have a comment, but not a suggestion (sorrowfully). It appears that some of us upper-end gear lovers are caught in the throws of a transition. Zen, you would very much like the vape world to go Z2. Provape seems to want to take us to P3 only. The majority of us are 510.

What does that mean? Where do we go with that, and how do we, as end users, make these differing 'worlds' combine? I think you are caught in the middle of this, JUMA, and tho I would love to offer up some sort of suggestion, sadly, I have none.

 

[ENAUD]

Gin, I hope so. This vaping deal has been an extremely frustrating experience. While I do enjoy the fiddle factor to a degree, it has involved a lot more work and expense than I ever expected. True, I got off the smokes after one day a vaping and never looked back. But I have difficulty recommending vaping to lots of people, my boss for example, as I know while they could well afford it, they'd never devote the time necessary to be successful at it.

And that right there is where the future success of vaping replacing smoking lies, things need to work effortlessly together right out of the box, first time... Every time.

 

[AstroTurf]

Here's what mine looks like.View attachment 488983

Where there is paint is not what is keeping it from screwing down flush.

Nor is the unpainted portion.

My opinion is that the threads on the newer Provi top caps are not cut deeply enough.

Just my opinion, Jim

PS My fix was to put a KayFun on the P3 that had a P3 tank gap.
FYI, the one that had the gap was the newest P3 flat top cap in my collection.

 

[Katdarling]

Gin, I hope so. This vaping deal has been an extremely frustrating experience. While I do enjoy the fiddle factor to a degree, it has involved a lot more work and expense than I ever expected. True, I got off the smokes after one day a vaping and never looked back. But I have difficulty recommending vaping to lots of people, my boss for example, as I know while they could well afford it, they'd never devote the time necessary to be successful at it.

It certainly CAN be frustrating. To the max, even, and I'm pretty sure we've all been there.

I (for one, or two) do not enjoy the fiddle factor at all. I'm a P&P gal alllllllllll the way. Pick it up, toss it in my purse, go out, and vape. I shy from looking at the costs. I would faint.

As far as recommendations for newbs at this point? VERY difficult, but it certainly would not be any of the gear we discuss in this thread.

 

[AstroTurf]

I have a comment, but not a suggestion (sorrowfully). It appears that some of us upper-end gear lovers are caught in the throws of a transition. Zen, you would very much like the vape world to go Z2. Provape seems to want to take us to P3 only. The majority of us are 510.

What does that mean? Where do we go with that, and how do we, as end users, make these differing 'worlds' combine? I think you are caught in the middle of this, JUMA, and tho I would love to offer up some sort of suggestion, sadly, I have none.

The Z2 Thread is in-fact a very strong thread...

But due to its diameter, it would not work on the current Provi without adding height.

The P3 thread is a good idea, but difficult to implement, as we are seeing. (due to the desired short height of the connection)

 

[Katdarling]

I trust and believe you, your Turfness. I'm saying, in a much more general sense, that many of us do not have "other" connectors, so it puts us in an in-between world.

I'm sure the Z2 is very good, and very strong. I know first hand that the P3 is also a wise idea in terms of strength.

The problem lies in the fact that most of us have nearly everything 510. The change over to a Z2 and/or P3 will take some "time".

 

[AstroTurf]

I trust and believe you, your Turfness. I'm saying, in a much more general sense, that many of us do not have "other" connectors, so it puts us in an in-between world.

I'm sure the Z2 is very good, and very strong. I know first hand that the P3 is also a wise idea in terms of strength.

The problem lies in the fact that most of us have nearly everything 510. The change over to a Z2 and/or P3 will take some "time".

Agreed Kat...

I think that until the world catches on, if ever, that the Z2 & P3 are just novelties.

Jim