Anybody Using A Kabuki?

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Zen~

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Glad it puts out the flavor because it sure is not a looker.

Oh HELL no... it's ....-ugly... however... it works REALLY well, and it costs more to make than we sell it for... the design competition drip tips are fiscally tragic, but I feel they were a great business decision. It gave several young people the opportunity to take a design from concept to reality, then into production without having the economic burden of cost-recovery or profit... being able to design a product experiencing first-hand all of the choices that need to be made along the way is one heck of a resume item that few people, especially their ages, can claim.
 

Racehorse

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People that paid $90-$100 for an atomizer have a right to expect they will get a device that works better than a 35 dollar atomizer... it's as simple as that. But it goes deeper, you also have a reasonable expectation to get great service as well. Rather than killing a day testing every possible permutation of what fits with what... the only thing that really matters is... does this atty work on the PV you want to put it on? If the answer is no, it doesn't... please leave the driving to us... get in touch with my shop and lets get you up and running ASAP.

Wow, that's the most reassuring, best customer service and product promise I have ever seen in 3+ years of vaping.

I don't own your atomizer but it sure would move me to buy one (that, and the quality materials).
 
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coldgin96

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Call the shop on Monday and we'll get a solution for you... so much effort, I feel bad that you went through it.

We have a lot of moving targets in these scenarios... I'll spell them out as honestly as I can.

1) Nautilus coils... great flavor... no... AMAZING flavor when used in a tank that can bring it out. But tolerances? Yikes... all over the map. I'm getting that dialed in and can make the coil seat deeper IF you have an issue. This is expensive for me to do because we do it on a manual lathe as needed.

2) The ProVape pin... WAY less than .5% of the kabuki sold have had connection issues because the ProVari center pin is set a hair lower than others. We have a test fixture that tests for the coil position to hit the spec of where the pin is supposed to be... a couple have been lower. Yeah, it's irritating when it happens, but the numbers are in the noise floor... still sucks though.

3) Optimism... I made some assumptions that didn't prove to be true... That I set the coil seat deep enough that the entire range of variables would be covered using a combination of the flex in the center pin of the pProVari, and two gaskets on the coil (one located on the coil seat, the other on the positive pin). As it turns out, when the right combination of tolerance errors occur, a lack of connection happens. This is easily corrected by lowering the coil seat, It's usually only an issue when you have a provari with a deep set center pin, AND a series of short coils.

4) The paper gap... As many people have noticed, on SOME P3s you'll have a gap, on others you will not. I currently own 11 PVs with P3 connectors on them... One of them ALWAYS has a Gap with the Kabuki... It ALSO has a gap with the Nautilus P3... the threads seem to "taper" on that device. I am not quick to say this is the fault of the connector on the PV, but multiple attys have the same results... I gotta blame the P3 for that one.

People that paid $90-$100 for an atomizer have a right to expect they will get a device that works better than a 35 dollar atomizer... it's as simple as that. But it goes deeper, you also have a reasonable expectation to get great service as well. Rather than killing a day testing every possible permutation of what fits with what... the only thing that really matters is... does this atty work on the PV you want to put it on? If the answer is no, it doesn't... please leave the driving to us... get in touch with my shop and lets get you up and running ASAP. Ya can't do that with a chinese atty... you PAID for American service... not just an American atty.

That being said, please, contact me, I will be out of the shop from 9/17-9/25 on travel, but lets get a solution in the works before I leave. When you call the shop feel free to ask for me, if I can't get to the phone Stacie can handle the issue as well. Once the ball is rolling, things move pretty quick!
Clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap, clap! :thumbs:

There it is! See, not only is this guy willing to stand behind his product and make it right, the HONESTY! Speaks VOLUMES!

I really can't add to it. His actions and honesty speak for him and HOH. Above and beyond!
 

AstroTurf

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-snip- I just flat out refuse to believe that two high-end, high reputation companies like Provape and HoH could be the issue...Provape created the P3 threading...Aspire tried to conform to it. HoH created a tank to conform to Aspire's coil. With such a mass produced item as the core of the design, it's no wonder there are tolerance issues. It's not Zen's fault, mad-scientist-wizard that he is. And it's not Provape's fault, like-a-rock-Chevy-tough-American mod builders that they are. -snip-

HB, See Zens point # 4

4) The paper gap... As many people have noticed, on SOME P3s you'll have a gap, on others you will not. I currently own 11 PVs with P3 connectors on them... One of them ALWAYS has a Gap with the Kabuki... It ALSO has a gap with the Nautilus P3... the threads seem to "taper" on that device. I am not quick to say this is the fault of the connector on the PV, but multiple attys have the same results... I gotta blame the P3 for that one.

Ok, now perhaps you will understand what I have said?

Jim


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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JUMA55

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Call the shop on Monday and we'll get a solution for you... so much effort, I feel bad that you went through it.

We have a lot of moving targets in these scenarios... I'll spell them out as honestly as I can.

1) Nautilus coils... great flavor... no... AMAZING flavor when used in a tank that can bring it out. But tolerances? Yikes... all over the map. I'm getting that dialed in and can make the coil seat deeper IF you have an issue. This is expensive for me to do because we do it on a manual lathe as needed.

2) The ProVape pin... WAY less than .5% of the kabuki sold have had connection issues because the ProVari center pin is set a hair lower than others. We have a test fixture that tests for the coil position to hit the spec of where the pin is supposed to be... a couple have been lower. Yeah, it's irritating when it happens, but the numbers are in the noise floor... still sucks though.

3) Optimism... I made some assumptions that didn't prove to be true... That I set the coil seat deep enough that the entire range of variables would be covered using a combination of the flex in the center pin of the pProVari, and two gaskets on the coil (one located on the coil seat, the other on the positive pin). As it turns out, when the right combination of tolerance errors occur, a lack of connection happens. This is easily corrected by lowering the coil seat, It's usually only an issue when you have a provari with a deep set center pin, AND a series of short coils.

4) The paper gap... As many people have noticed, on SOME P3s you'll have a gap, on others you will not. I currently own 11 PVs with P3 connectors on them... One of them ALWAYS has a Gap with the Kabuki... It ALSO has a gap with the Nautilus P3... the threads seem to "taper" on that device. I am not quick to say this is the fault of the connector on the PV, but multiple attys have the same results... I gotta blame the P3 for that one.

People that paid $90-$100 for an atomizer have a right to expect they will get a device that works better than a 35 dollar atomizer... it's as simple as that. But it goes deeper, you also have a reasonable expectation to get great service as well. Rather than killing a day testing every possible permutation of what fits with what... the only thing that really matters is... does this atty work on the PV you want to put it on? If the answer is no, it doesn't... please leave the driving to us... get in touch with my shop and lets get you up and running ASAP. Ya can't do that with a chinese atty... you PAID for American service... not just an American atty.

That being said, please, contact me, I will be out of the shop from 9/17-9/25 on travel, but lets get a solution in the works before I leave. When you call the shop feel free to ask for me, if I can't get to the phone Stacie can handle the issue as well. Once the ball is rolling, things move pretty quick!

Zen, that's great. Thank you!!! I will call your office on Monday But I'm only going to ask that you "fix" one of my three--the Stealth Kabuki that mates with the Stealth P3. Since the other two--the regular Kabukis that go with the Ti P3's--work fine with each, I see no reason to put you to the effort and expense.

Will I have to send back the entire tank or just the base?

You are correct, the Spectrum tank works fine on the Kabuki. Thank you for letting us know about it. And of course thank you for your fine products and service!
 

stevegmu

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May 10, 2013
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I love the cones...


bfi1hg.jpg
 

MsLoud

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Zen~

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Will I have to send back the entire tank or just the base?

It will be just the base... but when you call I may work out sending you a replacement base first with a return envelope for your original, I have to see if I have a replacement to modify in advance.

I thought they were aluminum?!?

These are actually Stainless steel, and they look "aluminish" in the photo. However, I can't say if they are 316L or 303L... When we made the design competition tips we used "metal dejour", I believe that most of them are 316L because we mainly used scrap bar ends and that's what we have in abundance around the shop, but I could never honestly rule out that one, or many could be 303L... Either way, 303L is a better material than what most people use for tips... It's a grade above what they use for Stainless Steel cutlery and flatware.
 
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